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Old 10-14-2017, 09:12 PM   #1
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House Batteries Removed & Shore Power & Battery Disconnect switches on Run?

My House/Coach Batteries (2 Costco/Interstate 208/210 AH #850284 6v in Series) drained, looked like something is up on the charging from the converter or in the Intellitec BCC area (I actually had tested the Auxiliary Start button recently as well). I removed the batteries and brought them to Interstate Batteries, they are going to put them on their heavy duty charger and then load test, will take a couple days.

I probably will have start another thread about troubleshooting this but would it be okay to plug back into my shore power (20amp) and turn both the chassis and coach disconnect switches back to run? I'll have the cables in the bay protected (Positive cable not on any metal).

I want to test my converter in place (without the batteries) but I have to check if I need either disconnect switch in the Run position to get 120v.

I wasn't sure if there is other concerns without House batteries connected.

The original MagneTek 6345 converter/battery charger was replaced with a Inteli-Power PD9160A (with Charge Wizard remote option) and it's manual says it can run with or without a battery connected. The DC Panel is stock MagneTek and there was a jumper from the new converter's output to the top center (blue wire) so all those fuses/DC circuits get filtered power.

Should I disconnect the Charge Wizard while the House batteries are disconnected?

Saw the following thread and I'll be checking those circuit breakers. Initial look I didn't see the reset buttons but perhaps cables are on top of them and blocking view.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f110/hous...on-242229.html

My house lights came on (with house batteries connected - I have not tried since removing those batteries, disconnect switches on storage right now), just went very dim over a couple days. I also have 3 of those circuit breakers in the BCC, one labeled 15A/30A REFER and 2 others each labeled 30A CIRCUIT BREAKER CONVERTER, not sure why there are two for converter. The night before we were using the coach in our yard, many interior lights on, furnace on, one tv on with direcTv receiver and a HDMI to SDI adapter / SDI to HDMI adapter combo** and I had a oil-filled radiator type heater connected to a 120v outlet in the coach (that heater on 600w setting, very low thermostat) which I just put inside the coach a few days before since the temps are coming down.

Battery Disconnect switches at the entry step seem to work. AC 120v inside coach (while house batteries, though very low, were still connected) was working while on shore power (20amp dedicated at house).

Generator wouldn't even turn over since House/Coach batteries so low.


** that's how I get HD to the bedroom TV using the factory installed coax.

.
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Old 10-14-2017, 09:23 PM   #2
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Coachstreamr said: "My House Batteries (2 Costco #850284 6v in Parallel)"

Well there's your problem. Two 6 volt batteries wired in parallel will give you 6 volts.

You need to wire them in series to get 12 volts.
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Old 10-14-2017, 09:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland View Post
Coachstreamr said: "My House Batteries (2 Costco #850284 6v in Parallel)"

Well there's your problem. Two 6 volt batteries wired in parallel will give you 6 volts.

You need to wire them in series to get 12 volts.
I'm sorry, I made a mistake, my House batteries were in series, one battery's neg to the other's pos (2 6v with total of 12v out)

I knew better, I'm a software developer with apps dealing with serial control to devices in part, so 'serial' comes natural for me.

My Chassis batteries (two 12v) are in Parallel.

I'll edit post #1

I also added some other info to the post and to this post below:

The coach does have two AC breaker panels (side by side under the bed), the MagneTek is fed from a AC only one (50 Amp main, next 30 amp breaker is for the MagneTek/Inteli-Power converter) which is fed from the ATS.

See this thread for pics:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/why-...on-356773.html

.
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Old 10-14-2017, 11:58 PM   #4
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House Batteries Removed - On Shore Power & Battery Disconnect switches on Run

Thread Title/Subject should have been:

House Batteries Removed - On Shore Power & Battery Disconnect switches on Run

.
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Old 10-16-2017, 07:28 AM   #5
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I can't swear to this but... in my previous coach I had a bad house battery and removed it but reconnected the shore power and ran much of the stuff inside. After replacing the house battery I noticed my converter was acting all "wonky", yes its a technical term. When I discussed what it was doing with a service person he said you should never run shore power without the battery "load" on it. Mine would pulse or cycle harshly as I loaded the battery system and cause the lights to blink hi/low until the battery caught up. I traded it in for my DP upgrade before I figured out if that was the actual issue or not. I will not do that with this coach.

Scott
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Old 10-16-2017, 07:46 AM   #6
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Some interesting tidbits:
First: Batteries run down just sitting on the bench with NOTHING connected. Takes a while (Months usually) but it happens.. As batteries age it happens Faster and Faster.

Second: The disconnect does not turn off EVERYTHING, some things remain on line all the time. We call these Parasitic loads.. They hasten the run down.. The only way to TRULY disconnect is with a wrench and lift the NEGATIVE leads off the battery.

Odds are the converter is NOT the issue. but yes. it can be

Intelletec BCC likely not the issue but that is where the fuses for the parasitic loads are.... Usually.....Most of 'em
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Old 10-16-2017, 11:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverofcode View Post
I can't swear to this but... in my previous coach I had a bad house battery and removed it but reconnected the shore power and ran much of the stuff inside. After replacing the house battery I noticed my converter was acting all "wonky", yes its a technical term. When I discussed what it was doing with a service person he said you should never run shore power without the battery "load" on it. Mine would pulse or cycle harshly as I loaded the battery system and cause the lights to blink hi/low until the battery caught up. I traded it in for my DP upgrade before I figured out if that was the actual issue or not. I will not do that with this coach.

Scott
The intellipower 9100 converter documentation does state that it's designed to run with or without a battery. I have not tried it without the coach/house batteries connected, don't think I want to.

.
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Old 10-16-2017, 11:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wa8yxm View Post
Some interesting tidbits:
First: Batteries run down just sitting on the bench with NOTHING connected. Takes a while (Months usually) but it happens.. As batteries age it happens Faster and Faster.

Second: The disconnect does not turn off EVERYTHING, some things remain on line all the time. We call these Parasitic loads.. They hasten the run down.. The only way to TRULY disconnect is with a wrench and lift the NEGATIVE leads off the battery.

Odds are the converter is NOT the issue. but yes. it can be

Intelletec BCC likely not the issue but that is where the fuses for the parasitic loads are.... Usually.....Most of 'em
Both Battery Disconnects were on USE.

A week ago or so I did (for the first time) press the Aux Start button and started the coach. I wanted to test it.

Shore Power always connected (dedicated 20 amp at house).

A few days before the coach/house batteries drained, I had a oil-filled radiator heater plugged in (600 watt setting) and running with the thermostat near all the way down. We want to use the coach here in the yard over the winter (will also use the furnace and probably a 60watt bulb or two in the basement near the water manifold, pump and holding tanks - will also monitor the temps down there).

The night before the drain, we stayed in the coach, had many lights going, had the furnace on. A few hours into this, I noticed the lights dimmed. I put the Converter's Charge Wizard (Inteli-Power) into manual/boost mode and the lights came back. Went to sleep in the coach (lights out, furnace on, 600 watt heater on). Next day lights were dimmed, battery level low and when I measured the coach/house battery voltage (at the batteries) it was in the 10 something volt range. Should have been higher as the Inteli-Power 9160's battery charger should have been doing it's thing.

In the 9100 series trouble shooting guide, a bad battery can be a cause of converter low output.. So I removed the batteries and took them to Interstate for testing. I should no more about those batteries tomorrow but today, they said they are coming up (few hours on their heavy duty charger on Saturday and all day today (Monday). They will load test if and once they get to 100%.

I will test the converter's output once the house/coach batteries are back in the system. I could also test the converter outside of the coach but was curious about connected to shore power with those batteries installed. I think I'll wait but it does seem like the house/coach battery POS cable terminates in the BCC at it's BD right lug (from the front). Not sure where the battery isolation solenoid is though, looks like it's going to be external of the power center and BCC.

I believe the converter's battery output POS cable terminates in the BCC at the 2 Converter Circuit Breakers.

You can see pictures of this BCC here
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/two-s...er-363792.html

Also trying to find the Battery Isolation Solenoid
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/what-...or-363834.html


So, either the converter's output is wacky, bad batteries or something has stopped the house/coach batteries from charging on shore power as it has been doing since July 3, when we brought the coach home after buying it.

.
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