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Burfman · 05-29-2017, 09:44 PM

So we headed up to the north country from Phoenix to cool off for a few days. Coach ran perfect as it always had on the way up. When we were ready to leave I started it and moved it into position to hook up the Jeep and turned it off so I wouldn't bother my neighbors.

20 min later I started it again but this time it made what I thought was a metallic sound like metal hitting metal, coughed a bit but started and then the yellow "Engine Warning" lamp lit. It was running, no smoke no chugging just idling at 650 rpm sounding normal.

Opened the hatch didn't see any leaks and no odd noises. Sounded like it always does. We hopped in and put her in gear and away we went. Once I pulled out onto the main road then I realized we had a problem. No power. I'm flat on the floor and maybe 25 mph slowly heading to 30. Looked in the mirror expecting to see clouds of black smoke but no smoke at all. Temp and oil pressure were normal, just no power.

Headed over to I-17 and stopped once again to check the engine but nothing out of the norm. When I hit I-17 south bound I was at the Verde Valley grade so down to 3rd gear and crawled up the hill at 2100 rpm's and 35 mph.

Pulled over once I made it to the top to check the engine again and same thing, everything looked normal but just down on power. I unhooked the jeep and let MW drive it back home as we were only about an hour out.

Most of the drive was flat or down hill and I was able to keep up with all the traffic at 70 / 75, even passed a few.

So the question is with no turbo I expected to see a ton of black smoke out the pipe but didn't. Any ideas on what might be the issue? I'm going to pull the codes tomorrow and open the back access to the engine to see what might be the cause. I'm suspecting a bad turbo, maybe jammed but then if that's the case wouldn't I get the black smoke?

Didn't add fuel as it's only a short drive up the hill. Will replace the fuel filters tomorrow am as I was going to do my pre trip oil and filters changes anyway but really don't think they are the issue.

As always thanks for any input and I hope all of you had a safe Memorial Day.

funjnt · 05-30-2017, 05:07 AM

Doesn't sound good. Filters is always a cheap place to start but may not be the issue here. The loud bang is not a great thing to hear LOL. Pulling the codes will surely give you a good direction. I have heard of the mechanical fuel pump which supplies the injection pump with fuel breaking the drive coupling. I am not sure of the symptoms of this though. I wouldn't think you could still drive it without the mechanical pump running but who knows. Let us know what codes come up. Good luck.

bneukam · 05-30-2017, 08:33 AM

Before doing anything I would pull the back hatch and look over all the CAC connections. Sounds like you may have lost some boost pressure.
I am no expert on this but from reading on the Cummins forum it may be something to look at.
You may also want to post this on the Cummins forum.

Good luck, and hope it's nothing serious.

TR4 · 05-30-2017, 08:45 AM

I'd start with the filters. Check the lift pump for leaks. Doesn't sound like a mechanical break if it ran as you described. Sounds like a fuel problem.

Bill

Burfman · 05-30-2017, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TR4

I'd start with the filters. Check the lift pump for leaks. Doesn't sound like a mechanical break if it ran as you described. Sounds like a fuel problem.

Bill

I agree with your direction. I kept thinking that "no turbo = black smoke" but all the way back to the house no smoke at all. So I go back to fuel delivery and not a turbo issue. Heading out to change the filters now. Will post later.

Thanks

Pelledan · 05-30-2017, 10:00 AM

The boost pressure from the turbo is monitored by other engine components and depending on model year, that monitor may be electronic or possibly mechanical in your case. In either situation if boost is low or not present at all, fuel to the engine will be reduced, overriding any inputs from the accelerator position. This is done specifically to inhibit smoke and reduce the possibility of engine damage caused by over fueling. The sound you heard, followed by the check engine light indicates something failed. The fact that it all occurred at idle speed pretty much rules out any CAC air tube separations since the boost pressure at idle is extremely low. My guess (and it is just a guess) is that something in the turbo failed, but there are only a few moving parts that could do so since your turbo is probably a fixed fan with a waste gate rather than a variable geometry style with many moving parts. Either way, the fact that the failure was audible is cause for significant concern.

Dan

Outlaw sled · 05-30-2017, 10:55 AM

Did the check engine light come on or just the yellow warning light... we have changed all the filters, the lift pump, now we are going to try to change the TPS sensor. We have the dreaded VP44 fuel pump and it's a $4000.00 fix to change apparently. They want $500.00 for a pedal throttle position sensor...it's been to 3 different shops and no one can figure out the problem. We have spent lots of time and money to try and fix it. I think if it was the fuel pump, the coach would not run so perfect when the light is out.

The codes we managed to pull from it are FMI 8 (abnormal frequency Or pulse width or period) and SPN 1078 (engine fuel injunction pump speed/position sensor). The count was 28!
We are afraid to drive the thing now because everyone says that every time you drive it and the light comes on... we are hurting the pump.

when I feather the pedal a few times, the light goes out and it's back to running smooth again..
Lise.

Burfman · 05-30-2017, 11:49 AM

CRISIS AVERTED...

I changed both fuel filters. Put them in dry as I always have and then cycled the ignition switch/lift pump 12 times. Checked for leaks at the filter gaskets and started the engine. Just playing with the throttle I could tell the difference. Took it up the road and it's back to its old self.

Never got to the codes but here is something strange. When I was cycling the lift pump I noticed all of the lights on the dash turning on and off like they normally do and the yellow "Engine Warning" lite turned off as well. I didn't do anything as in a reset to get rid of that lite. Pulled the filters which drained any pressure in the low side, let the lift pump fill them and for a reason I can't explain the light went off. Any ideas???

Last night when we got home and unloaded I checked it before I hit the sak and it was still on with the ignition. I have always been pretty anal on changing my filters, oil, lubing the chassis but lately as age creeps up on me (73) I'm a bit slower. These filters had about 18 months on them and believe it or not I had it scheduled to pull my before summer maintenance this next week after this run to the north country. When I fuel up I always put in a double dose of "Diesel Kleen Cetane Boost" when filling. I use the bottle that treats 250 gal as I have a 120 gal tank.

I do this after reading articles on the CAPS systems and their issues. Most articles recommended some type of lubricant in the fuel.

Anyways I guess the Old Girl just wanted some TLC and was kindly telling me to get on the stick

Thanks for all of the input and once again this forum rocks with support. Hope I can reciprocate some way some day...

Burfman · 05-30-2017, 11:58 AM

Quote from Pelledan:

The sound you heard, followed by the check engine light indicates something failed.

I agree but with my bad hearing I may have not heard what I thought I heard. I do know the engine coughed a bit or stumbled when it started and maybe I coupled that with what I thought was a mechanical issue.

I looked closely all around the engine but did not see anything out of place.

Thanks for your input

bneukam · 05-30-2017, 01:23 PM

It is strange that on your way up 17 you had no issues. I thought to be a fuel issue you would have noticed something.
Glad your back in full health.

Burfman · 05-30-2017, 03:14 PM

No issues at all. If you're familiar with I-17 I climed sunset point at 47 mph with my Jeep GC in tow. Stayed in 4th all the way. Glad it was just the filters. I'll consider that a wake up call.

apatz · 05-30-2017, 10:46 PM

I was going to say filters also. A friends class a had very similar issue last year and it was bad filter.

deandec · 06-04-2017, 10:03 AM

You might want to put some oil on your exhaust brakepivots, if you have one.

I lost power when the flapper stayed closed one time.

Burfman · 06-06-2017, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deandec

You might want to put some oil on your exhaust brakepivots, if you have one.

I lost power when the flapper stayed closed one time.

I hear you on that one. I just replaced my original with the new PBXR Pac Brake. BIG difference in slowing the coach down. Somewhat costly but I feel it's well worth it. They, Pac Brake, sell a lubricant just for this application. A few drops will do ya...