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Old 04-04-2016, 11:25 AM   #1
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2000 Magna Charge Air Cooler

Well, we drove our "new" Magna home from Salt Lake City, UT to Minnesota over the weekend. 1400 blissful miles! As expected and forewarned, the turbo only builds about 9 psi of boost, and you can hear the sound of rushing air out back during acceleration. So I'm assuming the Charge Air Cooler is shot. No big deal; I can change it out.

But I was very impressed that even with such low boost, that C-10 Cat climbed mountain passes at 45 mph and would maintain 80 mph on the interstate if desired.

So now I'm researching what needs to be done. Looks like maybe the radiator/CAC/Oil cooler is one assembly? So I'd need to replace the whole thing? I emailed Country Coach to see what they say. I'll do the work myself, so I'm just trying to figure out where I get the parts.

Fred
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:43 PM   #2
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Fred,
the three coils are separate, just stacked on on top of the other. I got my CAC from Specialty Logistics, Eugene, Oregon. 541.515.6651
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:46 AM   #3
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You have to pull the entire cooling package, but the CAC is a separate piece. I do not see how you going to do that on your own without a forklift. There is only one brand of charge air cooler to get and that is a Duralite.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:10 AM   #4
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Do you see physical damage to The CAC ?

Have you checked all of the hoses that carry the boosted air from the turbo to the intake ?
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:25 AM   #5
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Why would you by it knowing it had problems? Was this a privat sale?
"you can hear the sound of rushing air out back during acceleration."
The first thing how can you tell where the noise is coming from?
I would do a thourough inspection of all the clamps and rubber parts of the air ducts. You can cap the CAC and add air to test it for leaks.
Look at all of the exaust pluming it might be leaking before the turbo or the turbo may be bad.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:52 PM   #6
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We bought it because everything else is nice and after flying all the way to SLC I wasn't going to fly home again just because it wasn't building boost. Price was $56k. The dealer is an RV jockey, not a full service shop so they wouldn't have done the repair anyway and I didn't want to fly out there twice.

Country Coach has the CAC for $2,737.00 and I've done engine replacements myself In my MCI so this should be doable also. Although I understand you have to drop the radiator/CAC assembly out the bottom so the coach needs to be elevated about 36" and I'll need to use my bobcat to handle the removal.

But I'll give the system a careful inspection to be sure it's not just a ripped boot or loose connection.

Fred
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:25 PM   #7
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We have a C12. Three years ago we paid under $1,700 to CC for a new CAC. When I bought it I checked around for a lower price and they were all identical. Maybe now that CC is Winnebago prices have gone up. Or inflation.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:46 PM   #8
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. . .When you get it out take it to a GOOD Radiator Repair Shop; they can either repair it ( IF repairable ), match it up in their catalog OR they can recore ( existing tanks are cut off & new core is welded on to the old tanks ) it; they should be able to price match for you & keep it local if any warranty issues / fit issues arise. . .Was in radiator mfg, distribution, sales & service. . . No need to go long distance when it should be able to be done locally at same or even better price!!! Might want to get radiator cleaned at same time as I think you will find some air flow restriction when you get things out. . . Don't forget to look at ALL hoses / everything when you have stuff out as access will be easy to lots of things. . . FWIW. . .
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Old 04-06-2016, 12:07 AM   #9
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if you find that your CAC needs to be replaced, it is possible to remove it thru the radiator grill. We have a 2000 Magna with the C10 Cat. Our CAC needed to be replaced. As a heavy equipment mechanic, I figured out how to remove it thru the radiator grill. If you have any questions, you may e-mail me at lowbourbon@earthlink.net
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Old 04-06-2016, 11:07 AM   #10
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Ours was removed through the grill too. We have a C12.
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Old 04-06-2016, 09:23 PM   #11
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You can get creative with some assorted drain hoses or shop vac hoses and an electric leaf blower to pressurize the cac.

Simply locate flexible connections at air cleaner and opposite side of cac or just connect to air cleaner inlet and pressurize whole thing and use soapy water to look for leaks.

No need for engine to run.
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:00 PM   #12
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Yes and I also wonder if the waste gate is working? If if is stuck open, the turbo would never have the opportunity to create compressed air. I'm looking in to all troubleshooting options. Another thought is to just get a piece of aluminum pipe and bypass the CAC entirely. That would tell us what the weak link is.
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Old 04-08-2016, 01:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredward View Post
Yes and I also wonder if the waste gate is working? If if is stuck open, the turbo would never have the opportunity to create compressed air. I'm looking in to all troubleshooting options. Another thought is to just get a piece of aluminum pipe and bypass the CAC entirely. That would tell us what the weak link is.
Put someone you trust in the drivers seat, place transmission in gear, with one foot on the brake and the other on the accelerator run the RPM's up to about 1200. This should generate up to 10 psi of boost. Do this fairly quickly as the transmission will heat up. Spray soapy water on the CAC, especially at the ends where the tanks connect with the core. If it's leaking you will see it. Mine was leaking so badly that it just blew the soapy water away! No chance to form bubbles. This is the easiest and fastest way to check for a leak. I learned this trick from Colton Truck Terminal in So. Cal.

If you have the 'Bolt Together Unit' as we had there is no repairing it. Very poor design. Are there many small Allen bolts holding the tanks to the core? Should be easy to see from inside the engine compartment or from underneath.
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