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Old 08-12-2014, 07:21 PM   #15
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just to update. power seems ok, I've run a couple tanks with lucas fuel treatment through it and maybe I was just imagining the power issue.

The brakes lights are still an issue. I've checked with trailer hooked up, not hooked up with brake controller still in and unhooked brake controller and it's still an issue. Problem is still the same, when at speed the center light works, but the outer lights don't. when I slow down below 15 or so, they start to work, sometimes not until I stop. if I stay below about 45 (not scientific) they continue to work fine. I'm thinking about just tapping from the center light to the outers, but not sure how that would interfere with the turn signals.

I've yet to find the rear box that don describes.

any other suggestions out there?
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Old 08-12-2014, 11:13 PM   #16
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Ok , a real shot in the dark. The center high mount, has separate power from the front of the coach, to keep it operating when the turn signals are on. The brake light wiring runs up the steering column and the turn signal switch interrupts the brake light power and supplies power from the flasher instead. Turn signal switch wiring connector.
Just thinking and typing at the same time here. Every thing I think of , the speed factor throw a monkey wrench into.
Supplying power from the center to the outer brake lights, would over ride the signals, not good.
The only area where speed could be a factor, would be around the brake light switches, with wind from the left front wheel. I'm thinking my coach here , is your brake control ( foot valve ) under the floor?
If so , I'd be tempted to run a new wire from the brake light switches to the base of the steering column and hook it into the turn signal switch wiring. If there is a splice in the existing wire for the center light power, it could be that any movement of the under floor harness ,at speed , is causing a poor connection and allowing limited power past that point.
Like I say , shot in the dark.
For a test you could wire in a volt meter to the wiring at the base of the column and see if your getting full alternator volts when you apply the brakes at speed.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:12 AM   #17
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Most trailer tail light issues are caused by a bad ground. This can cause all sorts of crazy symptoms that are hard to diagnose. This can go for the coach also. I suggest you check your ground wires for the tail light system.

Question: How much did the Silver Leaf system cost and where can these be purchased? How much does your trailer and cargo weigh. I have been considering that option on my 2000 Allure with 330 cumins
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Old 08-14-2014, 11:13 AM   #18
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The first thing I would do for Loss of power, is change the fuel filters. Even if they were just changed, you may have some bad fuel. It could have been there before, or maybe you just picked up some bad fuel. I'd also cut open the old filters for examination.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:22 PM   #19
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It's not a grounding issue as the tail lights are grounded through same circuit and work as they should.

Does anyone know where circuit 52 (brake lights) and circuit 55/56 (turn signals) combine? The wiring diagram I have shows the rear cap harness with brake lights in, turn signals in to the rear cap harness but only turn signals out...

the turn signals work without issue as well. a little frustrating but getting closer.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:40 PM   #20
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I didn't go with the Silverlight, I went with the scand. seems to be pretty accurate except for the total fuel consumption figure which appears to read about 2x. I haven't spent much time playing with it yet.

my trailer is the better part of 8k lbs (need to weight it next time out). It's a 28' long 9' tall trailer to house the race car, golf cart and tons of spares.
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