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Old 07-19-2014, 02:40 PM   #1
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'88 CC' LTD 3208t runs too hot

Just bought this old beauty. Left Florida to Pa, then De., and Va. It's using 1 1/2 gal antifreeze every 600 mi? No leaks.. And runs to hot. Especially getting back into Florida? I'm thinking there be no thermostats x2, or it's evaporating due to running to hot 200*? Also, I see that the tranny cooler blocks 1/3rd of the radiator on the side? 163k mi. Anybody had this issue? Thanks
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:50 PM   #2
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Loosing 1 1/2 gals ever 600 miles, with no visible leaks , does not sound good.
One alternative is head gasket leak and the anti-freeze is going out the exhaust pipe as steam.
Time for a system pressure test.

200 degrees is not particularly hot , coolant loss is the big issue.
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Old 07-19-2014, 06:54 PM   #3
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First did you bleed the water?

There are water lines from engine to rad and they are huge and also get vapor lock.

Can simulate loosing water and run hot.

Look for a bleeder valve sbout center of engine on top of aluminum line.

Next look below for what looks like oil filter with faucets above it.

This is water treatment canister and it can get pinhole.

Shut faucets off for now...can get replacement at napa.

Then check fluid level in canister to left in back as it is for hyd fan and power steering.

Also observe fan operation as it is temperature controlled so a loose wire will cause it to not work
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:04 PM   #4
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Ok number one. Be glad. It is a 3208t T for turbocharged. Many Engines of that age had 3208s non turbocharged. They were complete dogs. No power. That is the good news. The not so good news is these engines produced by Caterpillar, who is famous for real heavy duty long lasting engines decided to get into the medium duty Diesel engine business and sold thousand of these motors for use in fire engines, school buses, class 7 trucks, and motor homes. They soon became known as "throwaway" engines because they could not be economically rebuilt. This changed later. But for our discussion here just know they were never very strong engines.
So now to your problem. My guess is you have a leaking head gasket. Check the oil dipstick. Water on the stick? Or most likely oil and coolant mixed to form a chocolate goo on the stick?
It could be a cracked block. Let's hope not. More reasonably good news is that these engines are cheap to acquire compared to say a larger cat or Cummins engine. Good luck. Get it into a competent independent HD truck garage and let them have a look. Don't for god sakes go to a Cat dealer unless you have a fat wallet. These engines have been around now for many years and aftermarket parts are available. Good luck
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:33 AM   #5
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Information here is awesome!

Thanks so much for the help given already.... I joined this forum last night. And posted right away. Afterwards, I did some deep searching since, and have founds tons of information. First, I stopped in a Cummins/Cat/Onan Ford dealership outside of Asheville, N.C., on my trip to PA. They changed the oil, and filters and found nothing in the oil. I told them I ran hot coming from Spartenburg (A Bunny Hill... Not). They said my fan was pulling good, and such, too. I did not down shift going up the mtns. Aha? Nevertheless, the loss of coolant is of my most importance. I will check the bleed valve as mentioned above. I would like to see if there are Thermostats in there at all? Even if, change them. Again, this forum is awesome. As I've only owned this since May 2014. And took two trips already. I was a Owner/Operator back in the '80's, and had no choice but to learn to fix my rig and trailer? Yes, this old coach has plenty of power, as I was pulling a trailer with two motorcycles, and a truck bed toolbox. After the coolant issue, is the generator DKD Genset 7500. Asheville Shop charged me $600 to try and get it back up and running? A process of elimination of fuel pump, thicker oil, and numbskulling it for hrs, led them to say it was the injector pump? Two days to wait for it? Had to go, and argued their bill didn't have merit, and they dropped $150. off the bill. :0 Goodness? I'm blabbing too much....
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:35 AM   #6
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Oh, I bought a pressure tester on craigslist, with different fittings, even to check cap? Will let y'all know what I find there.. Thanks
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:45 AM   #7
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I had a similar problem. Coolant was being expelled via the surge tank overflow valve while driving. Eventually, the low coolant sensor would shut down the engine.

There is an air bleed valve up behind the surge tank on my rig. With the engine running, i opened that valve and waited for the water stream to be solid. All has since been ok (7 years).

The Independent shop that I had used to flush and replace the coolant evidently did not burp the system.
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:54 AM   #8
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Thanks, Dean... And the other's for posting. I will burp the engine cooling system, and also pressure check, with a limited but valid amount of pressure, to spot any leaks? Nothing on ground while running, or shut off. Also, until reading it here, I didn't understand the fan switch above driver seat. Will check that out? I'm certain I turned it down, not knowing? Got lots to do... I've also seen here that I may need to check my generator fault code, and how to triggered it? The button on the side of DKD Genset is fully in, but could be defective? They charged me an arm and leg to fix nothing in Asheville, N.C., as they tried the elimination process? As far as I know with that, they never mentioned the glow plugs functioning or not? Nor, did they attempt to reset it? I saw something that you hold the off button three time, then do something? I will have to find that blog again.,,, too. Don't want to overload my brain capacity, and get side tracked.. LOL
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:00 AM   #9
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Re genny...

Get under the unit and look it over on right side.

You will see an electric fuel pump with a single wire that has a plug.

Next look for fuel pump and a bleeder.
For that google the unit to locate manual if not clear.

With a jumper wire you can disconnect the fuel pump and power directly from battery via the starter power cable.

Open the bleeder to vent air.

The fuel line is rubber back to top of tank in a place you cannot reach.

But it may be good above the tank...

Ours was cracked someplace between genny and front of tank.

Would run fine after bleed but after sitting it would run the fuel out of pump and die.replacing line that we could reach fixed it.

Too simple but often simple stumps folks...
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:04 AM   #10
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Water...
Did you check the water filter described above?

Ours did not spot on ground as leak was only with pressure and drippy.

You push on bottom to see if crusty or moist.

Also check the fawcets if it was leaking and they are off they still may be allowing some to get by when under pressure.
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Old 07-21-2014, 11:06 AM   #11
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Thanks, Tony! I cranked up the RV and moved it to other side of my power pole, to not kill the grass. They replaced the fuel pump, by installing an electric one on the generator. That was in Asheville, N.C. I was getting fuel to injectors, they said. But claim it to be the injection pump? Go figure, right? Being the older DKD, not sure if there was a fault code, to reset? I did find the reset button on the side of genset, and noticed the button was all the way in? But, it could be faulty, because its like it don't budge at all? Not saying it should release when pushed in. The glow plugs seem to be working? Are there any fuses for the Genset? I opened the top of box, and didn't see any? Nevertheless, I'm fixing to crawl back there into the rear of the motor, and under. I will shut them valves by that coolant filter, too. And then spin off filter and change it. I did notice the canister for hydraulic and P/S was low? What type, and is it the same I need for my Allison 4speed Automatic? Have to pull mattress up, and get on top of engine as well...:(
John in Brooksville, FL.
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:48 PM   #12
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:00 PM   #13
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If bed is stiff and will not roll up to fit down hallway do this.

Get a new tarp from harbor freight or home depot so you can wrap the bed

Get some 2x4 and make a u bracket about as wide as the pad with legs about 2 ft long.

Lift bed and place support under it and walk it towards other end to push it up.

Now 6 bolts 3/4 head with washers

Have old sheet to cover carpet and have gloves as bottom will be sooty

Lift and slide out and lean it against a wall.

Check throttle springs as one fails and it will not rev high enough to shift.

Combined with not most accurite tach and it drives you nuts...

Dont ask...

Safe to assume top speed of 10 mph...
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Old 07-21-2014, 03:44 PM   #14
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Tony, I have gotten in there before. I ended up placing a 1/4 sheet of rubber over the hatch, as it had no nuts or washers, and the holes looked wollered out. Phew! May have to rebuild a hatch door eventually/ And/or fix the existing one? Nevertheless, I will need to degrease engine and hoses from the top, without making a mess. I pressured washed the rear, and underneath when I bought it. After 2500k miles or more, I have some oil or P/S fluid building up again, slightly in area I've cleaned (in between Fan Clutch and Motor, on side). That's where I need to find that pitcock/valve to burp the coolant system, too? I see the Thermostats will be easy to get at, but will need to lower the coolant, some easy way? The mattress will slide out and down the hall. Its a bear, and have to bend it a bit. The fella I bought this from, was beginning to have health issues, and had no choice but to bail out. He had it for 20 yrs, and resided in Oregon (Home of CC?), but had it in Ft. Myers, FL., RV Park. He's had to change the odometer 4 times since he had it. And has kept track of the mileage (162, 500 now). New odometer reads (60k w/3200 mi being mine). I've yet to name it my "Redneck Motorcoach"... The Honeymoon is still on... LOL!
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