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Old 09-07-2012, 11:54 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jofo777 View Post
Where do you usually find the low side fitting?

Is any R-12 available?

What temp drop should you see after going thru the condenser under the dash?

Thanks for the quick replies, Joe
There may be some R-12 still out there, but it's getting expen$ive and only certain certified HVAC techs can buy it.
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:03 AM   #16
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There are replacements for r12 now available.

Alternative Refrigerants for R-12

Automotive Air Conditioning

Freeze-12 Refrigerant R-12 AC Replacement 12 oz Can : Amazon.com : Automotive
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:23 AM   #17
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I have a 1993 Magna with a less than adequate dash cooling output. Does anyone know when they switched to 134A?

I am looking for a way to shut off the hot engine water from going to the dash heater in summer but still keeping the domestic hot water tank heated with the engine. Any ideas?

Joe
I learned that some of the details of my AC system were posted on the coolant surge tank. They indicated lbs of 134a, and ounces of PAG 100 oil in the system. The compressor model is on the top or rear of the compressor.

My Over-The-Road system was built by RVAC Inc in Texas, but they are now out of business.

On my rig, originally there was a gate valve to close off the hot coolant line from the engine to the dash heater. It was mounted just to the driver side rear of the engine and was described in the CC manual. I had Cummins West remove that valve at the first failure of the always on school bus pump that pushes the coolant forward. The pump pushing against a closed gate valve seemed illogical to them and me.

However, at the third inconvenient failure of that school bus coolant pump, I just removed it also. The one behind the front bumper remains so the gate valve might solve your quest.
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:36 PM   #18
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The pump can run against the closed valve.

You could place a couple t in to allow the coolant to bypass the evaporator.

You need the water pump to force hot water for defrost and heat, a valve in the bypass can be open in summer closed in winter.

Better yet a trip to a self serve wrecking yard may yield a vacuum operated valve that can be set opposite to the existing one so it which bypass on cold, not bypass on hot
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Old 09-08-2012, 07:49 PM   #19
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The pump can run against the closed valve.

Well, the pump certainly can run and will run against the closed valve.

Unfortunately though, it could not run continuously against an Open valve or no valve as I had three pump failures in 8 years.

Many other CC owners have had and are having failures of the school bus pump and choose to bypass the culprit.

Being somewhat stranded in Eastern Montana during an rush long distance trip cured me of repairing once again that pump. It is gone!!!

And, we still have adequate heat and defrost at the dash over the past 2 years for our 30-40 degree cool weather..
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Old 09-08-2012, 08:15 PM   #20
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Deandec,

I have had great success with this:

ACPro

You can get it at your local auto parts store and it's as easy to use as they claim. You have to leave a deposit (usually $10) for the canister, but get it back when you bring the empty back.

I recharged my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey and it's now blowing cooler than ever.

Watch the video on the website and decide if this is for you. I can tell you that the entire cost to me was about $30 (after canister refund). Certainly less than I would have paid for a mechanic to check and then recharge the system.
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:49 PM   #21
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Well, what would happen if you just put a on/off switch on the pump and used it when you needed it? I think it would still pass water through it.

What happens when the pump fails? Does it quickly lose a lot of fluid?

I could see using it just when the weather was cold enough to make sense.

Joe
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:44 AM   #22
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Firecapt

I have the manifold guages for evacuating and recharging the AC system, so I am really financially committed to fixing my AC systems.

Joe

When the pump fails on my rig, the coolant drains from the system, and the engine shuts down due to low coolant when the sensor in the coolant surge tank is uncovered.

The first time I was able to see the leak and get the rig 30 miles to a Cummins store.

The other times required filling the system with on board water to drive to safety and repair. I have not tested the distance you can drive on the refill as I carried some parts to bypass the pump.

The pump will cost about $250 plus labor to replace.

There is a twin pump on my rig behind the front passenger bumper. It has never leaked.
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Old 09-09-2012, 05:24 PM   #23
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So Dean, what do you think about installing a switch to save wear and tear on the pump when it is not needed? Joe
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Old 09-10-2012, 11:07 AM   #24
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Joe, I have read where other owners have installed the switch.

That would seem to be a way to extend the life of the pump and impeller.

However, it is not the electrical or impeller portion that seems to fail, but the pump seal fails and allows the coolant to exit.

Since the coolant will still pass through the pump the failure might still occur?
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:06 PM   #25
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Well I will look at it an see if it makes some sense. I will post my results, Joe
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