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Old 08-09-2014, 06:44 PM   #15
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The dealer believes the problem is the HWH computer. HWH suggests it needs to be send to them to be fixed. I think when I get back to Florida I may take the coach to Alliance coach to have the leveling system checked. I suppose a bad valve would be less costly than having the computer fixed. They say a new computer is $1500 plus the labor cost of course.

Can the Travel Mode system be T/S in a DIY environment? Sounds like this might be beyond my means!

FMCA #F431170, GS #822128658, Escapees SKP #112655
2012 Airstream Mercedes Interstate Class B
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:59 PM   #16
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i hope who worked on your rig in the dealer was experienced on this. after checking the fuses on the control box, he should check if 12v was present on the inputs. if all were good, the next is hcv. replacing hcv is inexpensive relatively, parts is $130, then labor could be 200-300 if you can't diy. most likely your issue will be cured. if not, take the control box out and send it back to hwh for repair; i remember it's about $300. that is it. you don't need to buy a new controller (to my knowledge a new controller is about 600-700. don't know who quoted it to you but 1500 sounded like a ripoff to me).

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Old 08-10-2014, 01:25 PM   #17
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When I get home, and have some free time, I will grab my meter and take a look. Years ago I was an electronic technician so I guess I can at least look around. The dealer replaced two 7.5 fuses with 10 a self closing circuit breakers because they said the Travel mode was drawing .8 a too much.
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2012 Airstream Mercedes Interstate Class B
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Old 08-10-2014, 07:30 PM   #18
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Dealer did wrong...

You do not put bigger fuses in unless the manufacturer has instructions to do so.

The fuse is there to protect the power source from damage of excessive current.

Usually things like this ate overfused by some margin and in this case maybe not.

So first action is to identify exactly which fuses were involved and get the serial number and contact the manufacturer and confirm correct fuse and what the expected current flow should be.

Should be able to get a troubleshooting guide to help.

If all worked well until rough road then likely something pinched or broken.

If it will not auto adjust it could be a loose link.

If blowing fuses it could be stuck valve.

When you get home drive it up on planks and dump the air so you can confirm lowest level and adjust planks until you fit under.

Locate the ride height valves and check the linkages.

You can disconnect the link and start tge engine for air and manually with great care control the level with the valve.

If it does not work then it is not in travel mode and you need to locate that valve and trace out the wiring to see if it is pinched.

If they have plug in connectors then unplug and place smaller fuse in then plug in to see if it blows fuse.

If one valve per side and only one blows then that is bad one.

I would check on the fuse size as your controller is at risk...best to pull them if you can until you confirm they are okay.

Tony & Lori
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