Community Forums

backagain · 09-08-2017, 11:02 PM

I have a Height Control Valve (HCV) that needs to be replaced on my 05 Affinity. I assume the same valve is used on other CC models. Kevin at Premier RV said to order a Haldex #90554945 valve. The old valve on my Affinity is a Haldex #90554995. About the only difference that I can see in the old vs new valve is a drain tube on the bottom of the old valve.

Do you have any experience with these valves? They're supposed to be a common item to fail.

funjnt · 09-09-2017, 05:34 AM

My experience. I had one leveling valve go bad out of three, everyone including Kevin Waite said replace all three. Well the one went bad on the road and the right rear of the coach dropped so I had to find a truck shop to replace. So I had that one replaced and went to fla for the winter and then home this spring. Ordered the other two valves from our local truck shop and planned to install them during the summer when I had time. I don't have time apparently. So away we go to a wedding in Saratoga springs and nice camp ground on the lake. Great time. Upon leaving the front leveling valve went bad and the front of the coach dropped to the suspension and thus I had to stop asap. Called truck road service and since I had the new valve in stock he replaced with my part. On the road again. When I got home I scheduled an appt. with a truck frame shot near me in Ephrata called Garden Spot Truck and Frame. I had them install the last of the three valves and put the coach on their frame machine which is level and square and set all the valves correctly since the first two were installed on the road.

Moral of the story, if one valve starts going bad order all three and have them installed asap. I poo pooed this advice and it cost me two service calls and lost driving time and I could have even done them myself.

wfalch · 09-09-2017, 08:21 AM

I believe that CC is now suggesting a different part now. Send e-mail to CC parts. Would you like a Coke or Pepsi?

Burfman · 09-09-2017, 09:59 AM

[QUOTE=funjnt;3794629]My experience. I had one leveling valve go bad out of three, everyone including Kevin Waite said replace all three. Well the one went bad on the road and the right rear of the coach dropped so I had to find a truck shop to replace. So I had that one replaced and went to fla for the winter and then home this spring. Ordered the other two valves from our local truck shop and planned to install them during the summer when I had time. I don't have time apparently. So away we go to a wedding in Saratoga springs and nice camp ground on the lake. Great time. Upon leaving the front leveling valve went bad and the front of the coach dropped to the suspension and thus I had to stop asap.Called truck road service and since I had the new valve in stock he replaced with my part. On the road again. When I got home I scheduled an appt. with a truck frame shot near me in Ephrata called Garden Spot Truck and Frame. I had them install the last of the three valves and put the coach on their frame machine which is level and square and set all the valves correctly since the first two were installed on the road.

Had this happen to me years ago. Called HWH and they said you can manually raise the coach and pull I believe # 18 relay and the coach will remain in that position until you can safely reach a repair shop. It rode a bit different but i made it all the way back to Phoenix from central CA without issues. Then replaced the RH valve at my leisure...

Just an FYI...

backagain · 09-09-2017, 12:39 PM

Thanks for the advice. I bought two for the rear ($130 CND each from a local truck place) and will install myself. The old HCV had attachment bolts that went through the HCV and screwed into the attachment plate. The new HCV has the headless attachment bolts fixed to the HCV. I will have to drill out the threads in the attachment plated so I can slide the attachment bolts through the plate and put nuts on.

bneukam · 09-09-2017, 07:04 PM

Just make sure they are the rapid response, as Haldex makes both in all models.
Hardest part with replacing the valves yourself is knowing how tight to screw on the air line fittings. Over tightening is not good.
I've been told 20k to 30k miles is usually the life of a rapid response valves. I replaced all three myself last year. Having 6 to 8" ramps are a must have. Even then I was hugging the axel to reach them.

funjnt · 09-10-2017, 06:36 AM

Hey there Burfman. Which panel and what was the fuse labeled as at the #18? I know you can do that but wasn't able to find the correct fuse to do that.

I also drive my coach up on several 6x6 timbers that gives ample room under coach to safely get under and work on things.

bneukam · 09-10-2017, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funjnt

Hey there Burfman. Which panel and what was the fuse labeled as at the #18? I know you can do that but wasn't able to find the correct fuse to do that.

I also drive my coach up on several 6x6 timbers that gives ample room under coach to safely get under and work on things.

The fuse is located in the first drivers side bay. Should be labeled ride height, and a few other items including electric step.
With the air brake on, you use the HWH panel to adjust as close to ride height as possible. Then you remove the fuse. After that when you take off the air brake the coach should remain at the adjusted height.
The step will not automatically come in, so you need to use the switch.

CoCoDave · 09-11-2017, 09:08 AM

Good suggested workarounds to get the coach drive-able until the ride height valve can be attended to. Here's another one.

Again, get the coach to ride height and level using the HWH panel. Then ground the parking brake sensing switch. I think it's wire #23 in our coach. It's the only white wire in that group of three air pressure sensing switches. It fools the air system into believing that the parking brake is still set after releasing it so it does not transfer control of ride height from HWH to the mechanical/pneumatic chassis system. You get a "nag" from the electronic voice saying that the parking brake is set when you put the transmission in gear. All else behaves normally. The coach drives a little weird but other than that you'd never know. Tip courtesy of Butch Williams.

We drove the coach over 2,000 miles this way. The hardest part was finding a level spot to re-level the coach after dumping air to camp for the night. The hinky wire and clamp was what I had handy at the moment.

This would also work to keep the coach down if you were trying to clear a low overhead like a barn door or overpass or whatever.

FWIW

backagain · 09-11-2017, 12:10 PM

I replaced both valves for the rear with no crawling under the chassis needed. First I raising the air springs to the max. Then I raised the chassis another inch with bottle jacks and secured with jack stands. Then I purged the air. The valves were easy to reach by removing the mud flaps (only two bolts) between the tag and drive axles. I reached the valves over and between the tag and drive tires.

Reading the instructions that came with the Haldex HCVs for connecting the linkage to the valve is confusing and didn't work. By trial and error, I think I got it right.

Leveling is pretty close; just needs an adjustment at the control box. But my ride height is off by about two inches from one side to the other in the rear. I'm thinking I'll have to adjust the linkage between the HCVs and the chassis.

bneukam · 09-11-2017, 02:41 PM

Sounds like your Affinity is different than what I am used to. But if you still have the tripod setup (two in rear, and one up front) it's most important that the front is level side to side. When I had a 02 Intrigue, my rear was off by about 1/2 inch side to side in the rear, because more importantly my front was perfectly level.

backagain · 09-11-2017, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bneukam

...if you still have the tripod setup (two in rear, and one up front) it's most important that the front is level side to side. When I had a 02 Intrigue, my rear was off by about 1/2 inch side to side in the rear, because more importantly my front was perfectly level.

Why is it most important to have the front level? Right now, my rear left is about an inch lower than the rear right, and the front right is about an inch higher than the front left. I'm assuming the front is compensating for the rear. BTW, I believe I have the tripod set-up

bneukam · 09-11-2017, 08:30 PM

Your front has a set ride height, and should be set within a 16th of that measurement. This is for steering and handling. If your front is not level it also puts stress on your sway bar.

The rear will have a range that you need to be within.

So, if I am reading you right the curb side is lower by 1" front and rear. At this point I would measure where your front is at and adjust the rear to get the front at the correct ride height.

You are correct when you raise the rear on one end it will also raise the front same side. Depending on where your front is at now you may need to adjust one side, or both.

Hope I am making sense.

backagain · 09-11-2017, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bneukam

So, if I am reading you right the curb side is lower by 1" front and rear. At this point I would measure where your front is at and adjust the rear to get the front at the correct ride height.

My explanation wasn't that good. It's the roadside that is lower front and rear.

I was going the adjust the HCV linkage at the rear but found that CC made it non-adjustable. Looks like I'll have to make my own linkage.

Funny that you mentioned the front sway bar. I found the right side sway bar end bracket was broken. I'm wondering if all this happened at a park a few months ago. I had to negotiate very tight corners with large elevation changes. Hope I didn't bend the chassis.