Air System Over Cycling?

[TQ60]

Ours has t structures that look like tanks.

One is a single tank and other is a split 2 chamber tank.

[bneukam]

I can order a air tank that is 9" in diameter and 27" in length. They cost around $115.

Question I have is can I install this new tank in line between the air dryer and the wet tank. That way the air would go directly from the drier to the new tank. Then from the new tank over to the existing wet tank that supplies air to the air suspension.

Thanks,
Brett






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[Spk64]

Not sure I would put in front of the wet tank.
Here is how my Spartan is plumbed on rear suspension.
There is an extra accumulator tank between ride height valve and the air bags.




Steve

[bneukam]

Thanks, but not sure that would be the right way for my setup. Plus it would require a lot of extra work. I am just trying to add more capacity to the wet tank to add additional time between cycles.

Any Magna owners out there that know where their air suspension tank is located within the system, as I know that they have a separate tank that just supplies air to the ride height valves.


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[TQ60]

If only supplying air to suspension system than that is real easy...In theroy anyway.

First find the place where the tank will go.

Next go to the closest wheel and find the ride height valve and if air leveling it may not make a difference.

Determine which line on the valve is the source air and then get a t. Connector and add it near the valve so all is factory with no cutting.

Connect tank to that t and then whatever that supply is now is larger.

[bneukam]

After some more phone calls to Kevin, and his Chassis guy Brian, I've decided to go ahead and replace both ride height valves in the rear. As its pretty hard to test for leaks in the valve while sitting still. The front was replaced about a year ago.

They both function good but after further investigation I found on just one side the black cap and white filter were missing on the bottom of the valve. Don't know how I missed this on earlier inspections, but looks as if its been missing for a while as there is a good amount of dirt in there.

Should be receiving them here in the next few days, and will be replacing myself. The coach is up on 8" solid blocks and wheels are braced on all four corners. After I am done I will report back to see if there is any change on cycle times.

Bill, have you had any luck with yours?

[TR4]

Brett,
I've been in a no internet area in Montana for the last week. Since the replacement of the dyer there has been no change in cycling times. Rough roads equal more cycling. I'm looking forward to your report on the ride height valves. I've also thought about adding an extra tank just for the air suspension. There's a lot of space near the existing tanks and the wet tank has an area to add another air line. I remember reading on the Yahoo Country Coach forum about a member adding an auxiliary air tank to increase capacity, I'll try and find that post.
Bill

[bneukam]

Finished installing the new ride height control valves. Took her out for a test drive and now the air system is cycling every 7 to 10 min. instead of every 30 to 60 seconds.

This was at 65 mph down the interstate. Time between cycles was dependent on mostly how many bridges I went over.

I am so glad that this is finally resolved. Beer is on me tonight!

Brett


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[TR4]

Brett, where did you purchase the ride height valves and do you have a part number? Just got back from a five week road trip and compressor was cycling as yours. I'll have to get some new valves as well. Did you replace all three?

Bill

[bneukam]

Bill, I replaced the back two, the front was replaced about a year ago. Had one on the rear that was missing the bottom black cap and filter, allowing dirt to enter.

I ordered mine through Kevin 541-953-6162. They are part # 90555105, I believe the front is the same part #. I paid 165 each including shipping, you can get them for less online but Kevin was very good about getting them to me very quickly.

I installed them myself as its not very difficult. Today I adjusted the ride height as the new valves were slightly off. Again very simple to do.

[bneukam]

Bill, just making sure that you have ran all test to confirm that ride height valves are your issue.

You can try and find a pretty level surface, start the engine, release the parking brake and let her sit. At this point everything is engaged within the air system. If she doesn't cycle within 20 to 30 min then your problem is most likely your ride height valves.

Brett


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[TR4]

Thanks Brett, I've checked everything but the ride height valves. New dryer, and all new check valves. Checked all air lines for leaks. Sitting with and without parking brake on it doesn't cycle after the first purge. As soon as you start moving it starts to cycle like yours did. I always though this to be normal until you started this thread. I'll be ordering new ones Monday and install them before putting the motor home in storage. Thanks for posting back all your steps to solve this problem, it's helped me in the right direction. I'll post back after the install.

Bill

[CC Driver]

Well, shoot! Sat level at idle, parking brake off...lost air.....shoot.

Appt today to look for the air leak. On the road, no tools, nor place to work. No loss at idle, brake on, or level on site, engine off.

Will let you know.

[bneukam]

Tom, have them start at the rear parking brake line and work forward. Obviously you want the air brake off while looking. If it's cycling every 30 seconds it should be a pretty major leak.

Just be careful as if they end up inspecting the entire system they could take hours and your wallet will begin to feel much lighter.


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