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Old 10-03-2014, 05:33 PM   #15
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We recently did a 2000 mile trip with the controller unplugged and running on high the whole time. We got 6.5 mpg pulling a 3700 lb trailer. We have since replaced the controller and took another trip pulling a small SUV four down. We got 7.2 mpg this time. Long story short, there doesn't seem to be a huge mileage difference when the fan is running on high.
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Old 10-04-2014, 09:37 AM   #16
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Have your tried having the radiator cleaned out? When those controllers fail they tend to fail in the high speed mode to prevent overheating. The way the side mount radiator on our coach is set up it will pull in all kinds of dust, dirt, leaves etc into the radiator and that tends to build up over time. We had a hydraulic hose connection that kept coming loose and got oil on the cooling fins. I had to take it in and have the radiators for the AC, hydraulics, and transmission cooler removed and cleaned and my problems went away. However if I'm pulling a high mountain pass it may get hot enough that I feel more comfortable pulling over a few minutes to let it cool down before I go over the top. Also if you coach has a Silver Leaf system use that to check your temps and pressures because it's a lot more accurate than the analog gauges.
Good Luck
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:17 PM   #17
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UPDATE. Yesterday I had the opportunity to play with several situations (6-pin plug un-hooked and fastened, max ac on or off, etc), and did so in the presence of a long-time CC owner. It appears my fan is apparently not going to the higher speed, at least as it should when Max AC is on or the harness unplugged. When his coach goes into the high speed mode the parking lot dust will bellow and the sound is quite loud, even to the point one hears it inside the coach. I did not have this during yesterday's test and based on the noise level he felt it was running with normal (low) speed. That said, the fan must at some point increase in speed when the harness is un-plugged because the coach DOES NOT heat up when this is the case (like climbing over the Continental Divide. But it does heat up when the harness is connected (as it did recently while driving through Cheyenne. He could not understand this behavior, nor can I. The only thing that makes some sense, assuming the 3 sensors are operating correctly as the ohm readings indicate, is the fan controller is not working properly in governing the fan speed based on these parameters. IMO it does not sound like a bad thermostat.

Has anyone had similar symptoms. I posted earlier my temps, which seem to be on the low side until they shoot up to around 220 (and this happens like within a minute or so) and the coach shuts down. I recently cleaned the radiator exterior but as suggested might do a flush and see if that helps before going to the $$$ of a new controller (or wire in a switch as suggested).

Thanks to all who have offered suggestions.

BTW it is wire #84 on my coach, so I can easily wire in a switch as others have done, but that seems a bit odd when it is not operating as expected when the circuit is broken!!
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Old 10-06-2014, 08:32 AM   #18
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Will your fan go into high when you pull the fuse? If not the switch will not do you any good. I'm trying to figure out why the previous owner of my coach unhooked one of the hoses from the controller. I suspect he also went through this. I know he ordered and replaced the electronic module on the S-D controller. I'm trying to complete the puzzle too.
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Old 10-06-2014, 10:46 AM   #19
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I wish I was in a situation where I could do the test with the fuse pulled. Frankly I did not think about doing that at the time and the coach is now in storage in Phoenix. Bottom line is I now have three months to scratch my head and other parts of my anatomy before I return for the winter in January and do the repairs at that time. Thanks for your continued interest in this puzzling issue.
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Old 10-11-2014, 03:29 PM   #20
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New fan controller

I recently purchases a new fan controller from a place called Brendson fluid power in Sacramento, Ca. Shipped to my house for under $400.00
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Old 10-11-2014, 07:23 PM   #21
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Mine came from them as well. It apparently did not fix my coach as the PO eventually pulled one hose from the controller to the hub and capped it off. Mine runs in high all the time. Mine is back in the shop due to problems with the Onan. It may be winter before I get back to the fan. Hope that resolves your issues.
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Old 10-12-2014, 10:59 AM   #22
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Here's what one coach owner did.

Fan Controller Replaced By Wax Valve

Source Engineering in Coburg, OR, has these and so does Kevin Waite near Junction City, OR.

Kevin Wait - Country Coach Repair and upgrades.

FYI.
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Old 10-12-2014, 11:37 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoCoDave View Post
Here's what one coach owner did.

Fan Controller Replaced By Wax Valve

Source Engineering in Coburg, OR, has these and so does Kevin Waite near Junction City, OR.

Kevin Wait - Country Coach Repair and upgrades.

FYI.

I've talked to Kevin and may go that route. He's thinking it's about 6 hours labor?


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Old 10-12-2014, 03:47 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badtip View Post
I recently purchases a new fan controller from a place called Brendson fluid power in Sacramento, Ca. Shipped to my house for under $400.00
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duoglide1 View Post
Mine came from them as well. It apparently did not fix my coach as the PO eventually pulled one hose from the controller to the hub and capped it off. Mine runs in high all the time. Mine is back in the shop due to problems with the Onan. It may be winter before I get back to the fan. Hope that resolves your issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoCoDave View Post
Here's what one coach owner did.

Fan Controller Replaced By Wax Valve

Source Engineering in Coburg, OR, has these and so does Kevin Waite near Junction City, OR.

Kevin Wait - Country Coach Repair and upgrades.

FYI.
Thanks to all of you for your interest, suggestions and advice. $400 is not too bad if it fixes my problem, but at this point do not have the confidence that it is likely the culprit. I plan to do some more testing before deciding on going that route or doing the manual switch "bypass".
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:08 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duoglide1 View Post
I've talked to Kevin and may go that route. He's thinking it's about 6 hours labor?
2005 Country Coach Inspire, #51334. C9 CAT
That does sound like a lot of labor hours. Maybe a CC 2005 Inspire is laid out in a way that more effort is required to access the cooling system components?

Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide to do.

I'm making a trip to Junction City and Eugene, OR, in November for some maintenance like CAT valve lash adjustment, second half of the Transynd changeover, air dryer replacement, etc. While there I'm having the radiator fan looked at and will look further into the wax valve vis-a-vis controller module. Will post any new information turned up at that time.
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:53 PM   #26
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If you just buy tbe electonic part w/o the hydraulic components it's about $300. I bought mine here:Berendsen Fluid Power*Berendsen Fluid Power 1-800-360-2327. The part # for my coach is
1090408. The box is located at bottom aft part of radiator. The wires just unplug and plug in the new controller. Not a hard job.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:50 PM   #27
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http://sourcerv.com/tvck_flyer.pdf

I'm going from foggy memory on this one, but I'm pretty sure I've read of CC, and other coaches, owner's were happy with this product?

Now how this kit compares with the wax valve kit that Kevin has pulled together is something I don't know.

Wanted to share this site as info, and at the same time ask if my memory is correct and others were pleased with this solution?

Best to all,
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Old 10-19-2014, 09:46 AM   #28
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Thanks Smitty. Don't know yet if I'll have to go that route but now I have their website. Problem is none of the mechanics here in Dallas have done one and I hate to pay for their education by the hour. May do it in Oregon on a trip if I can't get it resolved sooner on mine.
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