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Old 10-02-2014, 11:30 PM   #1
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Bad fan controller (?) replacement options

Several have followed my posts on diagnosis of overheating causes by failure of one or more of the sensors that feed the 2 speed fan controller. I had a bad radiator sensor, but replacing it did not solve my overheating issue. All else checked out OK so it appears the fan controller itself is bad.

It seems I either need to replace the controller, which I am told is around $600, leave the unit unplugged and therefore always running on high speed, which I am told costs HP and MPG, or come up with an alternative. I read that someone rigged a bypass with a switch to manually control the fan speed. Is that possible and if so how? I don't even know where the controller is located in the chassis, much less how to SAFELY re=wire the thing!!! Or should I just leave things alone and let the fan run on high speed. It takes alot of lost MPG to equate to a $600 part.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Russ
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Old 10-02-2014, 11:42 PM   #2
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I have read about a wax valve alternative to the typical controller. Kevin Waite had posted he had put together some kits. 541-953-6162
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Old 10-02-2014, 11:53 PM   #3
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Have you tried cleaning the connector pins to make sure all the electrical connections are good Russ?
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Old 10-02-2014, 11:59 PM   #4
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I had a bad controller and I drove the coach for about 1,000 miles before I had a chance to replace it. I did not see any change in MPG from the time before it went bad, during the time it was bad and until I replaced it. I still got the same 8.5 MPG

With the bad controller, I would see 180 on the temp and with a new controller I see 195.

Now I do not have the huge dust cloud going in and out of campgrounds or hear the roar of the fan.

There is the wax valve alternative as discussed but after looking at the specs, I am not really sure about it. I know in the past that some mfrs used it but if it was so good, then why did they go away from it?

To find the controller, take a look on the rear of the fan shroud, near the bottom and look for a small box with a valve attached with a couple of hoses leading from it.
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:28 AM   #5
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Mine has had one of the hoses from the controller disconnected as PO had many issues with it. The S-D electrical controller was replaced to no avail (I got the receipts). I do have to solve the problem though as the best mileage I have gotten so far in our limited travel is 5.85 at 62mph in Econ mode with cruise control used. When the ECM was downloaded at CAT it showed miles and gallons used lifetime it comes up to 5.9. I believe it was disconnected in 2009. Eventually I have to restore the line and start trouble shooting. There is a fuse in the front run bay that can be pulled causing it to run on high. A couple of earlier posters rerouted the power to the fuse through a switch on the dash to manually remove the power and thus override the system. Also a poster a long time ago stated he had CAT reprogram it to 12V on/off based on ECM sensed temp. I have not checked into this yet nor have I found the sensors. Kevin does have the wax valve but not ready to jump into another adventure yet. Good luck and please let us know what you find.
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:50 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IASM View Post
I have read about a wax valve alternative to the typical controller. Kevin Waite had posted he had put together some kits. 541-953-6162
Thanks. I will look into that alternative
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale C View Post
Have you tried cleaning the connector pins to make sure all the electrical connections are good Russ?
Yes, but unfortunately to no avail
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Old 10-03-2014, 08:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duoglide1 View Post
Mine has had one of the hoses from the controller disconnected as PO had many issues with it. The S-D electrical controller was replaced to no avail (I got the receipts). I do have to solve the problem though as the best mileage I have gotten so far in our limited travel is 5.85 at 62mph in Econ mode with cruise control used. When the ECM was downloaded at CAT it showed miles and gallons used lifetime it comes up to 5.9. I believe it was disconnected in 2009. Eventually I have to restore the line and start trouble shooting. There is a fuse in the front run bay that can be pulled causing it to run on high. A couple of earlier posters rerouted the power to the fuse through a switch on the dash to manually remove the power and thus override the system. Also a poster a long time ago stated he had CAT reprogram it to 12V on/off based on ECM sensed temp. I have not checked into this yet nor have I found the sensors. Kevin does have the wax valve but not ready to jump into another adventure yet. Good luck and please let us know what you find.
Thanks for the help and suggestions. I now see where the controller is, and will look into the wax valve alternative. Also, do you happen to know which fuse you pulled as I think even I could switch that circuit.

You mpg is indeed very low. I get 8.5 to 9 and so far have not seen it drop a great deal with the fan always on high.
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Old 10-03-2014, 09:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dons2346 View Post
I had a bad controller and I drove the coach for about 1,000 miles before I had a chance to replace it. I did not see any change in MPG from the time before it went bad, during the time it was bad and until I replaced it. I still got the same 8.5 MPG

With the bad controller, I would see 180 on the temp and with a new controller I see 195.

Now I do not have the huge dust cloud going in and out of campgrounds or hear the roar of the fan.

There is the wax valve alternative as discussed but after looking at the specs, I am not really sure about it. I know in the past that some mfrs used it but if it was so good, then why did they go away from it?

To find the controller, take a look on the rear of the fan shroud, near the bottom and look for a small box with a valve attached with a couple of hoses leading from it.
Thanks. Controller now found.

My temps run 170-175 normal, and at start rising to about 190 when getting hot and needing the high speed. If I let things go the system shuts down at about 220. It seems based on your temps I am running cooler so perhaps I need to check into the thermostat.
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Old 10-03-2014, 10:20 AM   #10
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I don't remember which fuse it is. It's listed on the inside cover of the fuse panel box in the run bay on left front (below toll window). I don't have access to the coach now.
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Old 10-03-2014, 10:55 AM   #11
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One thing I ran into with an inspire with a c9 was overheating and a confused fan controller. what ended up being the problem was one of the two thermostats was broken. I would get high engine temps and the fan still would not run on high. I think what was happening was the fan sensor was located in a different spot in the system and it didn't think it was hot. Just something to think about.
Rod
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Old 10-03-2014, 04:54 PM   #12
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Controller by-pass Switch

Russ, I wired in a controller by-pass switch in my 2005 Inspire. It's a very easy process. I just cut the controller wire at the fuse in the 12 volt fuse box, I think it's wire #87 maybe #84, not sure as I'm not at my coach at this time. I then wired in a loop circuit with a rocker switch I got from Radio Shack into my drivers control panel. This is the panel on the left of the driver just above the transmission control panel. That's all there is to it. It really works great. I just got home from a 3,300 mile trip through mountains and 100 degree desert temperatures. When pulling a long grade I will switch the fan to high about 1 minute prior to the grade. This cools the engine down to 188-190 degrees. As I go up a long grade the temperature will slowly increase but it has never gone over 214. The 214 was on I-70 out of Denver going West up to Loveland Pass pulling my 4,500 lb toad.
I highly recommend the addition of this by-pass switch.
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Old 10-03-2014, 05:18 PM   #13
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Thanks for the comprehensive response. I plan to add a switch. But I first want to check the thermostats to make sure it's working properly.
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Old 10-03-2014, 05:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duoglide1 View Post
I don't remember which fuse it is. It's listed on the inside cover of the fuse panel box in the run bay on left front (below toll window). I don't have access to the coach now.
That info helps to get me started. Thanks
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