Community Forums

P7rancher · 04-11-2015, 01:59 PM

2000 CC Magna 36ft.
Rarely visit the forums because nothing ever seems to cause us any problems.
However:
On the passenger side, two of my large doors only have one strut to hold them open. The bracket on the door has pulled loose and bent one strut. The strut was rated at 110 lb. I have tried a 100 lb. strut and it is not quite strong enough to hold open the door and the door bracket has puled loose again out of the fiberglass on the inside of the door. In looking at the door I think I need to add one more strut to each door (probably use 60 lb. on both struts). Alternately I can weld a plate on the back of the door bracket to add extra screws in the fiberglass and try to continue with one strut. The brackets on the CC doors are not strong enough for the 110 lb. struts and the fiberglass the screws go in is not solid enough for the screws to stay secure. Your thoughts???

Also, our Microphor toilet will not hold water. We replaced the seal but water still leaks out of the bowl. I received the manual from Microphor (very nice people) and it shows an adjustment to the flapper valve to tighten the valve when it is closed against the seat. I cannot see how to work in the small space to access the adjustment. So.......any words of wisdom on removing the toilet??? Assume I will need a new seal for the bottom of the toilet.

Kind regards

Steve and Tammy

deandec · 04-11-2015, 05:38 PM

I have used these springs on my single spring doors.

SPD-GSNI-5300-20#
SPD-GSNI-5300-40#

I have also used one on my engine hatch access that locks into position and has to be released manually to close the hatch. That really has saved my head a few times.

On your Microphor toilet seal, I have used a seal lube type stuff on the seal and fine sandpaper on the porcelain side.

Also I tried to adjust the tension on the flapper, but do not remember if successful.

Never did remove the stack from the toilet.

All is well with our 20 yr old.

Peralko · 04-11-2015, 06:02 PM

It is really not too difficult to remove the Microphor. Four wood screws hold it down--just take off the cover caps. Shut off the water, remove the water connection and the electrical connection, and it pulls right out. I used a standard wax seal when I reinstalled. The tension on the flapper is adjustable, but be careful--they are plastic. I found the new seal I was sent from the guy that has the Microphor parts was slightly thicker than the original seal, and the difference in angle with the new seal prevented the seal from bedding properly. I finally gave up on the Microphor and put in a manual toilet that seals quite well!

CoCoDave · 04-12-2015, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P7rancher

2000 CC Magna 36ft.

Also, our Microphor toilet will not hold water. We replaced the seal but water still leaks out of the bowl. I received the manual from Microphor (very nice people) and it shows an adjustment to the flapper valve to tighten the valve when it is closed against the seat. I cannot see how to work in the small space to access the adjustment. So.......any words of wisdom on removing the toilet??? Assume I will need a new seal for the bottom of the toilet.

Kind regards

Steve and Tammy

Steve,

Check out this post and the links therein.

Microphor Flapper Adjust and Other Info

From the information at the link about the adjustment it looks like mineral deposits could be the cause of poor flap sealing. That sounds very plausible if hard water is being used by the toilet. In just 2.5 months of use in the Phoenix, AZ, area, our Microphor is showing signs of mineral build up on the surface of the bowl. Though it's still holding water, I'm going to attempt cleaning it with CLR when we get home.

FWIW

P7rancher · 04-13-2015, 10:21 AM

Thanks to all for the reply's.

I am going to get some CLR and some very fine sand paper or emory cloth and gently clean/smooth the seal that the flapper goes against.

deandec, can you direct me to the compartment latch that locks in place. I have fought these gas struts long enough that maybe I just need to go to a manual/lockable device.

The 110lb. struts put a lot of stress on the door bracket that is mounted in the fiberglass.

Thanks again.

deandec · 04-13-2015, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by P7rancher

Thanks to all for the reply's.

I am going to get some CLR and some very fine sand paper or emory cloth and gently clean/smooth the seal that the flapper goes against.

deandec, can you direct me to the compartment latch that locks in place. I have fought these gas struts long enough that maybe I just need to go to a manual/lockable device.

The 110lb. struts put a lot of stress on the door bracket that is mounted in the fiberglass.

Thanks again.

Here is the shock lock gas spring I use on my engine hatch cover:

http://www.spdhardware.com/catalog/G...20Gas%20Spring

IMHO, a 100 lb spring on a bin door is probably way too powerful! I use those to hold up my plywood engine cover and bed mattress in our north/south bedroom.

That may be why your hinge point is failing. The pressure is stressing the hinge base.

I posted earlier the gas springs I use on the bin doors. They are the same pressure as the springs Country Coach installed. 20# on the small doors and 40# on the wider doors.

My microphor flapper has a seal mounted on it. It closes against the porcelain hole edge. Sometimes stuff hangs up there and allows water to drain. So sanding that edge was effective for us a couple of years ago.

ga traveler · 04-13-2015, 05:38 PM

We had a problem with strut brackets pulling out of the basement doors. I went to home depot and bought some sheet aluminum. I cut the aluminum into 3x3 or 4x4 pieces. I applied a thin coat of epoxy to the back of the aluminum. Then I screwed four screws into the four corners of the plate. Installed the strut bracket to the plate. In fifteen years we never had another failure on the repaired doors.