Battery question

[Burfman]

I forgot to add that if you still have the big book that CC provided the electrical schematics will show you how all is connected. Very helpful..

[Burfman]

Originally Posted by kLI45

Qwimby1 - Do you know where the starter battery for the GenSet is on an intrigue? Just acquired this rig and getting familier but the books dont say. My 1990 CC it was in the front above the gen. Intrigue the gen is in a bay on left side but no battery in sight and it doesnt start just the normal clicking indicating discharged.

What year coach do you have? If you have the big CC book look in the electrical schematic and follow the line from the genset and it will show either it's own batt (I doubt it has one) or back to the house / domestic batt.

Hope this helps...

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by Burfman

Charging:

When the engine is running or the genset is running or you are connected to shore you will be charging the house batteries ONLY. The starting (chassis) battery is charged via a small device called a battery tender and it will pass voltage to the chassis battery ONLY when the house batteries reach I believe 13.2 volts..

You layed it out very well, except that the engine charging system charges the chassis battery at all times.

The chassis needs a steady voltage for all of the accessories and electronics on board. This requires that the chassis battery take priority, of the alternators output, over the house batteries.

Once the chassis battery reachs and remains at or above 13.2 volts, the charging will be shared with the house batteries.

The battery tender charges the chassis battery as you explained, from the generator or shore power.

[Burfman]

Originally Posted by twinboat

You layed it out very well, except that the engine charging system charges the chassis battery at all times.

The chassis needs a steady voltage for all of the accessories and electronics on board. This requires that the chassis battery take priority, of the alternators output, over the house batteries.

Once the chassis battery reachs and remains at or above 13.2 volts, the charging will be shared with the house batteries.

The battery tender charges the chassis battery as you explained, from the generator or shore power.

I stand corrected sir. Thanks for pointing that out and I knew that. These old fingers were moving faster than my brain.

[Qwimby1]

Everyone has been very helpful. I can't say enough good things about the Interstate main store in Sarasota. For just $20 they removed my two 8d house batteries, charged them fully, and in the process determined that they don't need changing now. They held up to a load test when fully charged. The tech also discovered the on/off switch on the inverter, which I had missed. What I thought was the inverter running was the fan.

When I put it back in storage I'll disconnect all the negative leads and turn off both the indoor inverter switch and the one on the inverter itself. I don't think the generator has its own start battery. I may look for a portable solar charger. Putting it in an RV park overnight would be almost impossible in the winter months since they are all booked solid. It's even getting harder in the summer months.

[Qwimby1]

Can anyone advise what size solar charger would be necessary to keep 8Ds charged?

[cruzbill]

Rule of thumb on solar is 100w panel per battery. Example, 1x 100w panel = 5a output current, 5 hrs sun per day = 5x5= 25 ahrs/day. So its a 5a trickle charger. But it only works when the sun is out, so if, in the winter, you have a week of clouds, well, better check your batteries.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by cruzbill

Rule of thumb on solar is 100w panel per battery. Example, 1x 100w panel = 5a output current, 5 hrs sun per day = 5x5= 25 ahrs/day. So its a 5a trickle charger. But it only works when the sun is out, so if, in the winter, you have a week of clouds, well, better check your batteries.

How does that rule of thumb work when some batteries at 85 AH and some, like an 8D, are over 200 AH.

Maybe something like 100 Watts per 100 AH would work.

[Smitty77]

My rule of thumb for solar is to go bigger then you think you'll need. I used 50% more solar capacity then my battery bank size. (800AH battery bank, and 1200W of solar.).

Other factors can influence the overall yield delivery of charge to your battery bank. (Wire sizing, solar controller efficiency, solar panel spec's efficiency, etc.)

The cost of solar panels had dropped so much over the last few decades, that adding more then is needed, really is a minor overall cost to the project!

On days with cloud cover, or parked in partial shading - having higher capacity really makes a difference in getting a battery bank back to 100% SOC.

Opinions will vary, and that's OK!
Smitty