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Old 06-19-2016, 08:48 PM   #15
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Every time I have traveled for a time and go near the rear of the coach, I get a whiff of coolant. The only leak ever found was an elbow in some of the coolant plumbing lower left side of engine bay. I never see coolant anywhere and I can't detect any loss in the sight glass. I need to check the radiator cap but don't think that is the issue.

I do wonder if it is the first signs of impending radiator failure .
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Old 06-19-2016, 09:50 PM   #16
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Hose end going into the engine block on the drivers side above the coolant filter. Has one of the constant pressure clamps on it too so I'm not sure why it's leaking.
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:59 PM   #17
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Got it apart with no trouble, took about hour from start to everything open including emptying the closet. Exactly as pictures show earlier. One problem is that the bolts (12 of them) were tight, but the washer was not holding anything. Need to go get a few star lockwashers and add to them.
Installed the Ugly Fix module, and found I didn't need to take the hatch open as I could crawl in through the side door and get to it. Wasn't a lost cause though as the leaking hose required it. Tightened the spring down on the hose clamp and I'll watch it for any more leaking.
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:04 PM   #18
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Good job! What is the Ugly Fix module?
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:26 PM   #19
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Good job! What is the Ugly Fix module?
Check here: The Ugly Fix® Cummins EGR Control Module® Delete - Cummins EGR Performance Module Delete Kit (The Ugly Fix™)
Keeps the EGR valve closed
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:28 AM   #20
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Every time I have traveled for a time and go near the rear of the coach, I get a whiff of coolant. The only leak ever found was an elbow in some of the coolant plumbing lower left side of engine bay. I never see coolant anywhere and I can't detect any loss in the sight glass. I need to check the radiator cap but don't think that is the issue.

I do wonder if it is the first signs of impending radiator failure .
You might try "burping" your cooling system.

Air in the system forced coolant out of my surge tank overflow during a six month period. Very little trace, but the surge tank would get low and set off an engine shut down routine on hard curves like a cloverleaf highway entrance.

After $600 of expert investigation to no avail, I impulsively did the procedure and it solved the problem.

Instructions are on my surge tank.
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Old 06-25-2016, 10:34 AM   #21
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That sounds like a good idea. Can you please post the instructions? I don't see any on my surge tank, nor in my manuals.

Sometimes, at altitude (6000 ft or more) I will see a little coolant on mud flap. I guess burped past the radiator cap on surge tank. I am going to try a new radiator cap, but it may be the nature of the beast at altitude...
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Old 06-25-2016, 11:39 AM   #22
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That sounds like a good idea. Can you please post the instructions? I don't see any on my surge tank, nor in my manuals.

Sometimes, at altitude (6000 ft or more) I will see a little coolant on mud flap. I guess burped past the radiator cap on surge tank. I am going to try a new radiator cap, but it may be the nature of the beast at altitude...
The instructions for my rig are also in the Gillig and CC manuals. It is part of the replacing coolant or adding coolant routine. My shop failed to execute when they replaced the coolant.

I have a bleed valve behind the surge tank that one opens while the engine is running. When only liquid flows, close it up.

Your more modern rig probably is different.

Unfortunately, I have to access the valve from the bedroom, not the engine hatch.
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:37 PM   #23
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So I have this petcock (far right in photo) that looks like a good place to open and bleed any air from cooling system, looks like the right place. That black hose goes to the top of surge tank, so it is vapor there. What do you think? I guess I would do it when it is warm, and be careful to route it where I won't get burned...
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