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Old 02-28-2016, 06:54 PM   #15
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@rsponford, thanks for the heads up on the switch. I have been searching online for a similar one with no luck. I already have a couple not matching switches I want to put back to original. I think just keeping a few toggles and momentary thows an hand will make sense
The issue with the horns is that they are totally intermittent, sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. Or I get one instead of two. Which vexes me because I really want to express myself at about 140dbls when my feelings need to be shared a couple blocks in every direction. That I need the guy in the hundai to realize that a 40000lb bus can not stop as fast as a 4000 lb car when they cut in in traffic. I have realized this to be a challenge.
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Old 02-28-2016, 09:00 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by cntrylife View Post
@rsponford, thanks for the heads up on the switch. I have been searching online for a similar one with no luck. I already have a couple not matching switches I want to put back to original. I think just keeping a few toggles and momentary thows an hand will make sense
The issue with the horns is that they are totally intermittent, sometimes they work and sometimes they don't. Or I get one instead of two. Which vexes me because I really want to express myself at about 140dbls when my feelings need to be shared a couple blocks in every direction. That I need the guy in the hundai to realize that a 40000lb bus can not stop as fast as a 4000 lb car when they cut in in traffic. I have realized this to be a challenge.
Lol. I feel your frustration on the horn issue. Sounds like you may also need to replace the turn signal/horn contact in the steering wheel if you problem is intermittent. I had to replace mine as the turn signal latch was broken when signaling a left turn. The part is overpriced if you buy it from Gillig. I paid them $215 but was told by a mechanic later that they could be found online for about $50. It's easy to replace except you'll want to buy a basic steering wheel puller if you don't have one. It's a simple inexpensive tool you should be able to find at any auto parts store. Just be sure to mark the steering wheel position before you remove it so it goes back on straight (assuming yours is already lined up straight). Not sure what could cause only one to sound instead of both. There's a thin aluminum diaphragm in the back of each actual horn. You can easily unscrew the back cover and make sure there's no dirt or debris getting in the way occasionally. My right side horn was completely blocked with mud dobber nests.
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:17 PM   #17
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I am a little ashamed of the grime on the roof but before I can clean it I need to get it out of storage and back home.
Darn WA winters
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:31 PM   #18
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Okay, with pics, now we believe you actually own it! Not a bad looking coach there!
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:45 PM   #19
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I am a little concerned about this, it appears the fiberglass in the front has separated a little creating a gap in the door seal, short of pulling of the front I am not sure how to fix it.
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:18 PM   #20
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What you bought is a "street legal" tank! I love these coaches.

Sorry but the 6V was never know for power, I'm thinking 300hp/1000lb torque, 2-stroke motor. Going up the hills with a very heavy coach like this, you will need to learn how to get a running start.

Solid oak wood cabinets and 2x2 Steel frame box chassis. Huge massive drum brakes. Sorry to tell you but the MPG sounds about right.

Separation of the front cap was not unusual.

Have fun with this. It will last forever
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Old 03-05-2016, 10:22 AM   #21
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For the interior switches they are available at good electronics supply or online.

We have a wholesaler in Fresno that ordered exact replacement rockers for the switches scattered all over ours and they were about a buck fifty or so each.

Carefully online as most are garbage.
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:15 PM   #22
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Well got a little dry weather and Bubbles in now a little cleaner and less the lettering for her title on top.

Got her back on the chargers too. By the way there is what look like some sort of sediment drain on the rear rt side of the engine that is leaking diesel, I think it is a fuel water separator but not sure. Does not look like there is a valve there just a open fitting on the bottom. Did not see it in the manuals, any ideas what that is? I have a feeling there is supposed to be a drain valve on the bottom of it.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:19 AM   #23
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Sounds like you are on track with a water separator or sediment bowl. I wouldn't mess with it until you have a replacement for the seals/gasket/o-rings or you may end up with a bigger temporary problem! If you could post a pic, I'm sure someone on here will chime in, probably with a part number and a sources for a replacement part!
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Old 03-08-2016, 10:58 AM   #24
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My fuel/water separator filter with clear bowl is mounted just behind the curb side rear bumper.

Wish my primary fuel filter were there also.....
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Old 03-20-2016, 01:00 PM   #25
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I actually marked the fridge down as a priority when I get home. That will be one of the first things I go over. It seems to work great but I agree with you that that might be a source of the strange smell. We were thinking it was some harsh chemical in the tanks but could not really determine the source. We did find some old chemical pellets under the sink in a deteriorated box that might have been exposed to water at some time releasing some amonia so we (me) will get that cleaned and aired out too. I going to pack in a little web cruising research on RV fridges in the next couple days. I also was reviewing my paperwork and discovered the PO put starting batteries in the house batteries. They are listed as 8d with 1400 CCA not deep cycle and amp hours so I will have to make some changes on that. I want to pull them out anyway and scrub the battery box with a brush. I think I am going to give the whole think a couple coats of por 15 and switch to some maintenance free bats so they don't corrode as much any more.
Hi and congrats on the new to you Concept. In 2008 we purchased a '92 Concept Capella on a Gillig chassis and love it. Like you we had some immediate year one issues, the biggest requiring a total engine rebuild. Re your refrigerator/odor, we discovered a slow leak from ours (believed to be from the ice maker) that had traveled under our marble flooring and was discoloring it slowly. We didn't really pinpoint the smell until the marble started cracking/loosening. We since replaced the fridge sans ice maker, and replaced the flooring, including the rotted wood sub floor. Re batteries, there were two house batteries and we increased to 6 AMG deep cycle to support a pure sine inverter for our electronics and computers. They've reached the end of their life and we are researching lithium batteries as a viable replacement. Re Kevin Waite, what service shop is he with? We spent time in Junction City our first year and got help from several great techs. They seem to have spread around a couple of places including Country Coach (now Winnebago) and Premier. I agree with the earlier recommendation of Gregg Bootes. We have also found him very helpful. However, our biggest challenge over the years is obtaining documentation specific to our coach (yours too). Unfortunately Country Coach destroyed all IP documentation as part of their bankruptcy years ago. So every new problem becomes more of a challenge to troubleshoot. Good luck to you. We would be happy to share what we know.
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Old 04-02-2016, 12:51 PM   #26
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Yes, congrats to you on the Concept. I'm glad to see you were able to get rid of the Bubbles the Destroyer lettering although I am curious to hear the story of why that was on there!

We bought a 98' Concept 40' Alpha in December. We were sad to see our '92 Overland Classic go but the Concept is an incredible coach and we are enjoying it. We had some immediate issues as well even though the PO seems to have taken good care of it.

The guys that sold it to us, truck resale place in Philly that listed it on eBay, replaced all of the batteries but put 4 8D starting batteries for the house batteries. I'll replace them pretty soon but like others I am interested in possibly going with Lithium batteries.

Has anyone replaced their inverters with something newer and better than the original Heart Xantrex. I have two Freedom 25 inverters with two Link 2000 control panels. One of the panels now shows no AC input when plugged in. Since the inverters are only modified sine wave and most likely original so 18 years old now, it makes sense to replace/upgrade. I had the Xantrex RV3000 in our previous coach. I replaced it with the newer RS3000 when a lighting strike took it out. I am looking at both the Magnum and Xantrex inverters. I would install two to replace the two existing and link them so they work in parallel.

My most immediate issue is leaky windows and the "creepy window seal" issue with all of our Si-Gi windows. I purchased a kit from Dave Root to repair them and will attempt it in the next few weeks. It requires removing the windows and taking the frames apart, then splitting the two panes (double pane) and new seal that won't creep and also contains desiccant to eliminate fogging.
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Old 04-02-2016, 11:43 PM   #27
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I installed the new generation Xantrex Freedom SW3000 inverter/charger in my '90 Concept last summer. I don't have anything else to compare it to but I'm very impressed with it. There are a ton of setup options that took me some time to get right and to understand with the patient help of tech support, but now it's dialed in and I'm extremely happy with it. I also have the optional Automatic Generator Start (AGS) module which has really great added features. I've seen several complaints about the older Xantrex systems on various forums, but all I can say is this newer system has been great for me.

In my case I was replacing a first generation Freedom SW3000 that had been somehow damaged by the previous owner. I had the 75 pound inverter shipped to be repaired at an authorized Xantrex repair facility in Oregon. When it arrived, UPS had managed to completely destroy the inverter while in their care so I had to purchase a new one. By the way, if anyone else is replacing a first generation system with the new generation system you need to know that the accessory components must be replaced as well. This includes the System Control Panel and the Automatic Generator Start modules. Xantrex engineers literally forgot to assign new part numbers to the new accessory modules, but believe me, the old accessories are not compatible with new generation system even though they are both identical appearance and part number.

Another noteworthy detail is that my system arrived with the default AGS settings for a 24V system. It took me some time with tech support to discover this and get the settings set properly for my 12V system. Also, nowhere in the manual does it suggest any recommended voltage trigger settings for the AGS. Perhaps the best settings vary with different battery types which may be installed. The manual also failed to explain in simple novice terms the difference between "absorb" and "float" battery charging status, about which I previously knew nothing. At any rate, I'm very happy with it now that I have a fundamental understanding of the electrical system and understand the correct settings.

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Old 04-03-2016, 07:27 PM   #28
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A commercial pressure washer should do a number on those letters and the grime.

Sorry. See that problem has been resolved. Looks good.

A wax and buff will make it look new.
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