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04-27-2013, 12:20 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 7
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Can't get the freon to go into my aircon. fill
Help, I am not able to get the freon to go into my airconditioner fill. It starts to go in then stops. It is not full, all the fitting are ok and have bought 2 fill hoses to make sure it was not that. Thanks
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04-27-2013, 05:30 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Northern California
Posts: 5,850
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Holding the can upright and shaking it while filling?
Engine on and AC system on Max?
Compressor running and clutch engaged?
Do you have the two gauges to measure both sides of the system to know how much 134a to add?
If not how much psi does your low side gauge indicate you need?
__________________
Dean
1995 38' CC Magna #5280 **** Sold after 21 years of enjoyment.
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04-27-2013, 09:21 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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When the system low side pressure switch senses low pressure, it will turn off the clutch and stop taking in freon. When the static pressures rises, it will activate the clutch again and take in more freon. Sometimes it helps to spray water on the radiator when filling. Low side pressure should be in the low to mid 30s range. Do not invert the freon can for more than about 1/2 second. Liquid freon is hard on the compressor.
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04-28-2013, 07:33 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 7
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There is only one gauge and it is reading 150 in the red. I had a friend tell us we had too much freon in it and would need to take some of it out?
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04-28-2013, 02:46 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,654
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Unless you have both high and low guages with a thermometer to measure temperature you are guessing and asking for trouble big time.
R134 pressure of 100 means nothing unless temperature and point( high or low) is known.
Back off, get qualified help or minimum correct tools and do it correctly and safely.
Too much and you blow something up and get hurt, then cost to repair crazy.
Most factory R134 systems hold coolant very well and need little service, converted ones need more.
Be carefull and insure done correct, if you are not properly tooled and trained it is best to pay for this to be done by the pros
__________________
Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
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04-28-2013, 03:31 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Phx, Arid~zona
Posts: 11,106
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The sky is falling! The sky is falling! What about the cans with the single gauge that anybody, and maybe even a child, can buy at an auto parts store or WM?
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04-28-2013, 07:25 PM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Bryan, TX when not traveling.
Posts: 22,945
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And situations like this one is why I recommend that the unit be taken to a PROFESSIONAL that is trained in safe handling of refrigerants and understands how to properly service a system.
All too often, the first thing that comes to mind is that if the system is not cooling, just add refrigerant (Freon). There are many things that can cause loss of cooling.
Ken
__________________
Amateur Radio Operator (KE5DFR)|No Longer Full-Time! - 2023 Cougar 22MLS toted by 2022 F150, 3.5L EcoBoost Tow Max FX4 Lariat Travel with one Standard Schnauzer and one small Timneh African Gray Parrot, retired mechanical engineer
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04-29-2013, 08:58 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4,654
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Back in the day...
Back in the R12 days when the Freon was $0.49 a can, the systems did not seal as well as they do now, and they required "topping off" often.
When things went south then the manufacturers were required to make systems that were less prone to leaking to save us.
R134 has a smaller molecule, it actually will seep through the R12 system hoses, so best not to convert unless all hoses and seals are changed, there are replacements like "Hot Shot" that work fine.
The R134 also has different operating pressures than R12, yes there are cans at WM with the hose and guage, and they suggest you should know what you are doing.
One can may not cause great harm but some folks may place more when it needed none.
Often it is a control, valve or sensor issue with the R134 systems.
Best to check running temperatures with an "IR" thermometer to see if hot things are hot and cold things are cold, then attach manifold only when needed, this reduces the chances of a not seating seal after manifold removal.
And be sure to replace all dust caps, these are where most losses occur.
__________________
Tony & Lori
1989 Country Coach Savannah SE
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04-29-2013, 10:51 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 7
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We r taking it to a shop to fix our air! Thanks for all the help!
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