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Old 09-12-2016, 04:58 PM   #15
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I'm having similar issues. My Echo charger is changing once house Batteries hit 13.4 v they trickle charge the chassis batteries at 15 Amps. Problem is when inverter goes from charge to float mode the voltage drops to 13.1 - 13.2 thus no trickle charge. How do I resolve this.
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Old 09-12-2016, 08:17 PM   #16
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Richard,
Don't know how your Monaco is wired but my Country Coach has two ways to activate the boost solenoid which is a continuous duty solenoid. One, the familiar boost switch. The second, an oil pressure switch that activates the boost solenoid when the engine is started. This is how the house batteries get charged while driving. I doubt the OP would need to worry about his boost solenoid if he decides to set it on while running the generator and allow his charger to charge both sets of batteries. After all, I usually drive in excess of 6 hours a day and my boost solenoid is still good.
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Old 09-12-2016, 10:40 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Affinityfan View Post
I'm having similar issues. My Echo charger is changing once house Batteries hit 13.4 v they trickle charge the chassis batteries at 15 Amps. Problem is when inverter goes from charge to float mode the voltage drops to 13.1 - 13.2 thus no trickle charge. How do I resolve this.
From what I am reading in the Echo Charger manual, charging stops when the input voltage drops to less than 13 or exceeds 17.

From the manual:
When the input voltage is 13.0/25.5 volts DC or higher, echo-charge
automatically switches ON. The LED glows a steady green. When the
input voltage is lower than 13.0/25.5 volts, the echo-charge automatically
switches OFF, and the LED blinks green. The output voltage of echocharge
is limited to 14.4/28.8 volts. When it reaches 14.4/28.8 volts, the
charge current will decrease, maintaining a float condition. The starter
battery will be fully charged without overcharging.
No load
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Old 09-13-2016, 01:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bootjack View Post
It says in my book that chassis battery is only charged by the alt on engine

Bootjack-

I agree with the posts below that you really want to eliminate the problem and then decide if you want to install an Echo charger. I have basically the same coach ('90 Concept, 36') and had the same problem. You are correct that the chassis batteries are only charged by the alternator. In my case, the drain was being caused by a faulty boost solenoid. You should have two identical solenoids mounted inboard of the house battery tray along the passenger side frame rail. On my coach the other two solenoids for the generator boost system are located on the driver's side; one behind the chassis battery tray and one in the accessory compartment under the driver's seat. Yours may not be in the same locations. I know Countrylife, who is on this forum, found that one or maybe two of his solenoids were located somewhere in the electrical bay.

According to Gregg Bootes at CC the OEM solenoids could have been continuous duty or momentary during production, but it is no problem to replace them with the 200 Amp Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoids. There are four solenoids total; two for the chassis boost system and two for the generator boost system. After checking with Gregg I replaced all four of mine with the 200 Amp continuous duty solenoids. They are available on Amazon for $34 each. (Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2429I..._Nh31xbDM6G88A)
One of my solenoids had failed. Hearing the relay clicking does not mean that it's actually working. Gregg made me aware of this fact and he was absolutely correct. In addition to the chassis boost feature not working properly there was also a small drain being placed on the chassis batteries which would become evident after a day or two of camping by weakening the chassis batteries.

Replacing all of the solenoids fixed my chassis battery drain problem and now my chassis boost system is working again. Although you could use your converter/charger to charge your chassis batteries by leaving the boost switch turned on once you have the higher capacity solenoids installed I personally wouldn't recommend it except in a pinch. You would be much better off installing an Echo charger. They're only about $115 and are very easy to install. Figuring out a path for the wiring took some thought but otherwise very simple. I highly recommend this modification.

By the way, according to Gregg, some of the coaches had a on/off toggle installed for the chassis boost and some had a momentary toggle. He said either is fine but you would probably only want the on/off toggle if you have the higher capacity solenoids.

I apologize for this post being a little scattered and not very well written but I hope this is helpful.


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Old 09-13-2016, 05:54 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phays View Post

Don't know how your Monaco is wired but my Country Coach has two ways to activate the boost solenoid which is a continuous duty solenoid. One, the familiar boost switch. The second, an oil pressure switch that activates the boost solenoid when the engine is started.
Thanks for clarifying what CC had done with their boost circuit. Yup, major differences and I should have figured that CC did things differently than Monaco.

Coach manufactures don't necessarily follow the same methods and I forget that occasionally. That's why on this forum you can get a wide variety of responses to a posted problem BUT have to weed out what doesn't pertain to that brand of coach.

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Old 09-13-2016, 09:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rsponsford View Post
Bootjack-

I agree with the posts below that you really want to eliminate the problem and then decide if you want to install an Echo charger. I have basically the same coach ('90 Concept, 36') and had the same problem. You are correct that the chassis batteries are only charged by the alternator. In my case, the drain was being caused by a faulty boost solenoid. You should have two identical solenoids mounted inboard of the house battery tray along the passenger side frame rail. On my coach the other two solenoids for the generator boost system are located on the driver's side; one behind the chassis battery tray and one in the accessory compartment under the driver's seat. Yours may not be in the same locations. I know Countrylife, who is on this forum, found that one or maybe two of his solenoids were located somewhere in the electrical bay.

According to Gregg Bootes at CC the OEM solenoids could have been continuous duty or momentary during production, but it is no problem to replace them with the 200 Amp Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoids. There are four solenoids total; two for the chassis boost system and two for the generator boost system. After checking with Gregg I replaced all four of mine with the 200 Amp continuous duty solenoids. They are available on Amazon for $34 each. (Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2429I..._Nh31xbDM6G88A)
One of my solenoids had failed. Hearing the relay clicking does not mean that it's actually working. Gregg made me aware of this fact and he was absolutely correct. In addition to the chassis boost feature not working properly there was also a small drain being placed on the chassis batteries which would become evident after a day or two of camping by weakening the chassis batteries.

Replacing all of the solenoids fixed my chassis battery drain problem and now my chassis boost system is working again. Although you could use your converter/charger to charge your chassis batteries by leaving the boost switch turned on once you have the higher capacity solenoids installed I personally wouldn't recommend it except in a pinch. You would be much better off installing an Echo charger. They're only about $115 and are very easy to install. Figuring out a path for the wiring took some thought but otherwise very simple. I highly recommend this modification.

By the way, according to Gregg, some of the coaches had a on/off toggle installed for the chassis boost and some had a momentary toggle. He said either is fine but you would probably only want the on/off toggle if you have the higher capacity solenoids.

I apologize for this post being a little scattered and not very well written but I hope this is helpful.


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You have been very helpful, I cant thank you enough for all this info.
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Old 09-13-2016, 11:32 AM   #21
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You have been very helpful, I cant thank you enough for all this info.
One thing I should add is that the drain only seems to happen when the Gen is running. I haven't seen this problem when hooked to shore power
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Old 09-13-2016, 12:14 PM   #22
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Sounds like your generator uses your chassis batteries. Here's what Onan says.

STARTING BATTERIES RUN DOWN
(Marginal battery, battery connections, or charging system; or parasitic loads)
Corrective Action:
1. Clean and tighten the positive (+) and negative (−) battery cable connections at the battery, vehicle
frame and genset (Page 17).
2. Recharge or replace the battery. Refer to the battery manufacturer’s recommendations.
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Old 09-13-2016, 01:39 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phays View Post
Sounds like your generator uses your chassis batteries. Here's what Onan says.

STARTING BATTERIES RUN DOWN
(Marginal battery, battery connections, or charging system; or parasitic loads)
Corrective Action:
1. Clean and tighten the positive (+) and negative (−) battery cable connections at the battery, vehicle
frame and genset (Page 17).
2. Recharge or replace the battery. Refer to the battery manufacturer’s recommendations.
The battewry for the Gen is dead. When I bought the coach the guy tld me that he replaced all batteries except the gen battery. He said that he just would use the gen boost switch so he didn't bother changing that one out. You think that has something to do with it ?
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:28 PM   #24
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Your generator probably does not recharge your chassis batteries. (Mine does not.)

So if you start your generator several times using the starting batteries without running the engine alternator, the starting battery's voltage will be pulled down significantly.

The generator will recharge your house batteries via the inverter/charger.

The generator may recharge your dedicated generator battery with DC current. (Mine used to but I decided not to replace a failed DC voltage rectifier on the generator because it seemed redundant.)

The generator will recharge your dedicated generator battery via your Inverter/Charger as mine does even if your DC voltage rectifier does not.

I added a Trik-L Start device to transfer charge to my Chassis batteries from my House batteries.

This works with shore power, generator power, or solar power as a source to the house battery.
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:52 PM   #25
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I installed an Amp-L-Start starting battery charger/maintainer on my 1993 Fleetwood Coronado to solve this problem, works great.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:49 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bootjack View Post
The battewry for the Gen is dead. When I bought the coach the guy tld me that he replaced all batteries except the gen battery. He said that he just would use the gen boost switch so he didn't bother changing that one out. You think that has something to do with it ?

Hard to be sure. It's a group 27 battery and not all that expensive. I would definitely replace it. A bad battery can mess up the system voltage and cause some crazy gremlins.


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Old 09-14-2016, 01:00 AM   #27
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Chassis battery drain while dry camping

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rsponsford View Post
Hard to be sure. It's a group 27 battery and not all that expensive. I would definitely replace it. A bad battery can mess up the system voltage and cause some crazy gremlins.

I had forgotten about this but a little over a year ago one of the solenoids for my generator boost system totally fried and shorted out. Your comment about your generator battery being dead reminded me of this. The engine shop working on it at the time thought the problem was the generator battery, but it turned out to be the solenoid in the photo attached. This solenoid is one of two used in the generator boost system and is located behind the chassis battery tray on the drivers' side. Also attached is a photo of the solenoid wiring diagram for either of the two (chassis or generator) boost systems.

Also, Deandec is correct. In the OEM configuration your generator does not charge the chassis batteries.

Also worth mentioning again, as depicted in the attached image, there are two solenoids per boost system for a total of four.

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