Community Forums

cntrylife · 09-26-2017, 09:43 PM

Just spent $800 fixing ours and it lasted 4 days. Good news is that we found the leak, bad news is I am not sure I want to fill it again with R-12
Might just buy a new compressor and convert it to 134

Smitty77 · 09-26-2017, 10:43 PM

Burlroad - That is an excellent question, and or, observation

!

Keep in mind this the CC owner forum, and we've had input (Always a positive in general, but sometimes a bit confusing too.) from non CC owners.

Many CC's had two OTR compressors, and some rather sophisticated controls to handle them. IMO, many of the non CC owner's posting were talking about the same 'single' OTR AC units similar to what I have in my coach...

I was at OMC in early September, looking at an older Prevost based CC 40' bus. I sort of chuckles when I looked into the engine bay with it's big Detroit, and X's 2 (That is two separate units.) AC compressors. Heck, the AC compressors had more bulk and metal to them then the little old engine in my Toad, an 07 CRV!!!

One for the front passenger and driver area, and another towards the rear of the coach.

As I understan it (Which my DW tells me often is not alway's as I think it is...), many of the higher end 'non Prevost based' CC's also had 'dual compressor units'. Some Magna's, Affinty's and higher CC models for example. (I do not know if Intrigures ever had dual AC compressors, or zones from OTR(?). But I know my ear Allure, had only one compressor, and front driving area zone to cool...

Added mechanicals and sohitication of cooling, usually comes with the opportunity of more problems...

But, and it's been a long divergence, back to the OP - I suspect he had a single compressor, and front of the cab only AC unit. And his coach, and or repairs, had a ripple effect of both non perfect install at OEM build, and then after the fact.... And, it could have been aggravated by (Avert you're eyes CC loyalist!) - a bad design for his specific model CC...

If you can survive on your generator and roof top (Or toss in some solar/inveter/battery capacity too.) AC's cooling. Then move on... and abandon the OTR AC...

I've found that even with two 15K Penquins in our 40', that I still will at time also turn on the OTR AC to remain comfortable while traveling in the Southwest heats... So I pay to keep my OTR AC functional....

Shaping up to be a great thread on OTR AC's...

Best to all, stay cool,
Smitty

birdhunter · 09-27-2017, 12:46 AM

When I first got my Magna 10 years ago, I was at 5 different places that replaced various things in the air conditioning system and it still continue to leak. Finally about seven years ago I can't remember where I was-- perhaps Cummins in Albuquerque-- when they finally identified the actual problem which was the fittings/hoses that connect to whatI believe is called the condenser that sits in front of the charger cooler. He said this is one of the most common points for leaks cuz they are highly stressed, but all kinds of techs miss them .AC has been going strong without any problems for seven years. It can still freeze your knees off and keeps the rear of the coach very cool as well.

Rich 2002 Magna

gsander1 · 09-27-2017, 12:03 PM

Smitty, just a note regarding the front and rear chassis air conditioning you mention on most Magna/Affinity coaches. They have only one compressor, one condenser but two evaporators. On my '03 Magna for example the dash evaporator is 19,000 BTU and the rear is 13,500 BTU running off the single compressor.

DGBPokes · 09-27-2017, 12:41 PM

Had mine serviced in June, real cold when I drove off repair shop lot. 45 miles down the road blowing temp was 72. Did a u turn and went back to the shop. They changed out a hose, the belt,recharged. They said my problem was the radiator fan ( side fan ) was not running properly. I would have to take it to Spartan to get that fixed. They said the slower fan speed let the temp go up in the condenser (located on the bottom of the radiator).
Sounded like the usual pass the buck BS to me. So, they took a shop fan, blowing next to the side radiator, the output temp at the dash was a cold 54.
Talked to Spartan last night.....going to have a meeting at the Newmar rally next week.
So far spent $450

Smitty77 · 09-27-2017, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsander1

Smitty, just a note regarding the front and rear chassis air conditioning you mention on most Magna/Affinity coaches. They have only one compressor, one condenser but two evaporators. On my '03 Magna for example the dash evaporator is 19,000 BTU and the rear is 13,500 BTU running off the single compressor.

Thanks for clarifying that 'Dual Zone OTR AC' does not always require dual compressors... (I knew better then what I stated

! Let the Prevost based CC dual compressor set up twist my intention of dual zones...

!)

Best to you, and all,
Smitty
(Note: George, still plan on shooting you an email when we get serious on E Bikes!!!)

Burfman · 09-28-2017, 08:27 AM

We have had our old '99 since 2002 and every year i would have to recharge the A/C unit. I finally got tired of this and chased down the leak It turned out to be on the discharge hose off of the compressor to the condenser. Took the hose off and took it down to the local auto A/C parts store and they made a new one up for me with compressed clamps not screw clamps.

That was three years ago and I still get very cold air out of the front vents.

I'm an A/C mechanic so I had all the tools and knowledge to do the job.

Best to all.....

Old Scout · 09-28-2017, 08:40 AM

General observation--if one evaporator works and one doesn't or system seems to be full, yet dash air doesn't work, need to look at the "h-valve" that controls coolant flow into your dash heater core. That valve can stick open and heat the air your A/C just cooled. Also keep the max air setting on so only inside air is cooled and re-circulated. This valve issue also explains why dash air seems to work when engine is first started, but fails once you are on the road--engine coolant heats up and open heater core valve defeats the A/C evaporator.

Burlroad · 09-30-2017, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Scout

General observation--if one evaporator works and one doesn't or system seems to be full, yet dash air doesn't work, need to look at the "h-valve" that controls coolant flow into your dash heater core. That valve can stick open and heat the air your A/C just cooled. Also keep the max air setting on so only inside air is cooled and re-circulated. This valve issue also explains why dash air seems to work when engine is first started, but fails once you are on the road--engine coolant heats up and open heater core valve defeats the A/C evaporator.

Thanks, Old Scout-

Today I tried the front Dash A/C again and switched the air setting to Max. Nothing comes out when on Max. When I switch to Norm the air comes out the vents. Put it back on Max, no air at all. Does that mean the evaporator isn't working, or the "h-valve" is stuck? Or something else?

Appreciate the help!
David
2003 Lexa

Soppy · 09-30-2017, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dons2346

Having measured the power requirements for my roof air, I can say that it will spike to 13 amps on start up and run at 8 amps. This is for a 15K Dometic.

What CF is doing is entirely possible

The actual spike will be closer to 40 to 70 amps. You won't see it with a normal meter.

Old Scout · 09-30-2017, 12:22 PM

Nope--the "H-valve" only controls engine coolant flow into the dash heater core--should be closed when dash controls are in AC mode. If the max air setting is not allowing air into the cabin, it may be that you have a leak in your vacuum control lines or the vacuum pump isn't working correctly. That is, the mixing doors on your dash unit aren't opening and closing properly to direct air thru the various vents....

Fredward · 09-30-2017, 12:36 PM

Yep I've noticed that the hot water valve must not close all the way on the front evaporator on our Magna. Always some hot air flowing out of the evaporator on the "vent" setting. Also the hoses are pretty warm to the touch. I have not done any trouble shooting as to what's not working. But as a result, the coldest the air ever gets is about 60 coming out of the vents on full cool with recirculate selected.

Ditto on the radiator fan. You have to have air movement across the condenser in order for that AC system to work.
Fred

benford · 09-30-2017, 12:36 PM

I gave up on fixing the leak,
replaced compressor, expansion valve, dryer, flushed many many times due to metal in the lines from compressor failure, had new hoses crimped with proper
fittings for new compressor, had to use a barbed coupler and clamps to
connect to those long lines going all the way to the front BUT,

Now I just add freon as needed, couple cans a season gets it done, still doesn't cool like a car A/C, I figure those long lines have alot to do with that,
50 degree air is the best she'll do, I'm good with that,

benford · 09-30-2017, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cntrylife

Just spent $800 fixing ours and it lasted 4 days. Good news is that we found the leak, bad news is I am not sure I want to fill it again with R-12
Might just buy a new compressor and convert it to 134

Don't need a new compressor just put the 134a in and keep on truckin'
Works for me , I know some people will say you can't do it but I have
many times and many years have gone by and they still work fine,