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Old 09-30-2017, 12:55 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by cruzbill View Post
On our new to us DP, I noticed the dash air blowing hot air when we first test drove the rig. Dealer 'fixed' it by recrimping the High Pressure hose fitting at the compressor and recharging. Year later, in BC, no air. Local shop replaced the Schrader valves at the compressor (one was leaking) and recharge ($400). Year later, no air-Cat dealer went to town; He showed me the bad hose crimp the selling dealer did, small leak at compressor (new compressor) and I forgot what else. Extended warranty paid about half, we antied up $2000. Now dash air still working, but I noticed the HP hose fitting is leaking again (oil on hose at crimp). Is there any fix?
On my second motorhome, I had a leak at the crimp. Replaced the hose. A year later, I had a second leak at the same crimp. I decided the hose was short and when the engine moved, it was causing the crimp to strain. I took a high speed grinder and installed a cutting disc. Carefully cut the crimp off the hose and installed a AC clamp. No more problems. Make sure you use a Special AC clamp. Not a regular clamp. In my opinion, a crimp is not nearly as strong as a clamp.
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Old 09-30-2017, 07:19 PM   #44
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I had all kinds of issues on my 06 Inspire...tiny leaks at connections, pinched o-rings at difficult to get to places, and finally a failed condenser (found that one AFTER trading it in). The dash AC in my current Intrigue works awesome! (knock on wood)
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Old 10-01-2017, 12:26 AM   #45
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The actual spike will be closer to 40 to 70 amps. You won't see it with a normal meter.
you sounded like talking about "compressor locked amps", not "startup amps". latter is about 1/3 of the former.

before my first time run, i called dometic/penguin tech support. they confirmed that my system was adequate. if they told me not, i would have installed a soft starter click here.
i had no problem with my system.
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Old 10-09-2017, 10:21 AM   #46
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A lot of a/c shops don't try real hard to repair or locate small leaks. So when they recharge it you will need it charged again next year. I found a leak in mine after I bought it at the expansion valve .I found it wasn't cooling properly several months later again it was at the expansion valve . The leak was small enough that soap bubbles didn't show the location. I tightened the fittings with a cheater over the wrench. If it happens again I will remove the valve and use flair gaskets at each connection. When recharging it is always best to evacuate and weigh in the new charge so you know it has the proper charge.
If you have an old coach that uses R12 rather than pay the big bucks for R 12 or go through the trouble of converting to 134 I would recharge with Dura cool . It is a propane type coolent that will be better then 134 in R12 systems and doesn't require an oil change conversion. We did this all the time in the classic GMC motorhomes with good results.
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Old 10-10-2017, 04:02 PM   #47
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Ga Traveller, Special AC clamps, like these?

http://www.goodyearrubberproducts.co...olClip2010.pdf
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:28 AM   #48
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If you have an old coach that uses R12 rather than pay the big bucks for R 12 or go through the trouble of converting to 134 I would recharge with Dura cool . It is a propane type coolent that will be better then 134 in R12 systems and doesn't require an oil change conversion. We did this all the time in the classic GMC motorhomes with good results.


If switching from R12 to Dura Cool does anything other than the refrigerant have to be changed out?
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:27 AM   #49
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Another product is hot shot which the commercial company that took care of our switch room equipment suggested and provided.

It is a mix of assorted things and a universal sub but it is a direct replacement and it does work well

Requires a license to get but similar price as R134.

Be aware that most R12 systems when new were not designed to near the quality of R134 systems and most seeped the gas as the stuff was readily available and 49 cents a can.

We got the 35 pounder and just top off as needed.

If a hose is leaking then look at the actual cause and if just a fitting that can be replaced if the fitting for the brand of hose is still available.

If not then a universal fitting could be used but it could possible fail

If hose is short or can be removed then replace hose but be sure the place making hose is using hose and connectors from same manufacturer as they are better this way.
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:31 AM   #50
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No you don't need to change oil or do any modifications except repair any leaks you may have in the system. This stuff will cool as well as R12 unlike 134 does in an R12 system an is a lot less expensive then R12. Some folks worry about the small amount of propane in this gas but it is very insignificant compared to the big tank of propane in the coach. The best place to find it is online. When charging it the best way would be to evacuate the system and check the chart that shows how much to use compared to what amount of R12 your coach requires. However you can add it to an existing R12 charge to top it off as it will mix ok but this may not be legal with EPA. Try it you will like it. Better yet read up on it we used a lot of it on classic GMC motorhomes with good results it even lowers the discharge pressure compared to R12 and 134.
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