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Old 03-13-2017, 10:52 AM   #1
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Driving to Brazels

Heading over to Centralia next week to have Brazels work on installing a couple of items.
First its the FASS pump which I have been reading up on. I will also look at adding a fuel pressure gauge.
Second is the AERO Turbine muffler. From what I've read those who have installed them are quite happy. Some noticeable increase in mpg and power. Not sure if our CC will see the same results as the bigger tail pipes already put in by the factory.
The coach is running great, no issues that i know of. The only thing that is a little bothersome is that I am downshifting more than i would like to keep the rpms up over 1500. It goes into 6th gear around 52mph.
Is there anything else that I should be looking at for them to do? Is there anything I should be aware of with the two upgrades.?
Thanks
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Old 03-13-2017, 07:53 PM   #2
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Brett,

At the same time I would install a Pyrometer. When I installed my Fass fuel pump and Isspro fuel gauge, I installed a conduit from the back up to the front to run the wires for the fuel gauge. Since I already had the conduit, it was easy to run the wires for Isspro Pyrometer. The Isspro gauges can be programmed with a warning light. I set the fuel gauge light to come on when the pressure drops to 10 psi. I know when filters need changing when the fuel pressure starts dropping. The Pyrometer light is set to go on at 1250 deg.

I got the idea for the Pyrometer from Smitty who also had Brazel's install his. I find that I use the Pyrometer as much as the tachometer for gear selection.

If I had to do it again, I would install a larger conduit for future projects.

Bill
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:00 PM   #3
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Brett,



At the same time I would install a Pyrometer. When I installed my Fass fuel pump and Isspro fuel gauge, I installed a conduit from the back up to the front to run the wires for the fuel gauge. Since I already had the conduit, it was easy to run the wires for Isspro Pyrometer. The Isspro gauges can be programmed with a warning light. I set the fuel gauge light to come on when the pressure drops to 10 psi. I know when filters need changing when the fuel pressure starts dropping. The Pyrometer light is set to go on at 1250 deg.



I got the idea for the Pyrometer from Smitty who also had Brazel's install his. I find that I use the Pyrometer as much as the tachometer for gear selection.



If I had to do it again, I would install a larger conduit for future projects.



Bill


Thanks Bill, your right don't know what I was thinking. Especially since mine likes to run at lower rpm's.
Did you run the conduit along the bottom of the coach?
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Old 03-13-2017, 10:44 PM   #4
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As you'll be in the region, you could look into either having Braze's do it for you, or stop in at Source Engineering. I found their Pilot Valve (Wax Valve) modification to be a good investment. (It replaces the Sourer-Danfoss Fan Control Unit - which when it works is still Low/Med/High, which means the fan will run at a higher RPM then may actually be needed to support current cooling demands. Higher RPM, means more power diverted from the wheels.)

On the Aero Turbine. I had one put on, but due to the what I consider a petty good stock muffler choice by Country Coach, I don't think it was a dramatic change. I felt that the turbo spooled up a little quicker form a bit less back pressure. And I 'think' I noted a difference in say 2nd and 3rd gear changes, as the RPM's would recover faster. But, it could have been just wishful thinking on my part! (Nothing measurable on MPG differences.) (And I do believe it helped a bit on that 2nd and 3rd gear RPM recovery - or I would not have said it to start with.)

I look at each and every change, even small, to be an incremental improvement - every little bit helps.

And note, my coach is different in model year, and model, then yours - so could be apples to oranges.

Final comment. The same air filter that went into an 04 Intrigue with BIG BLOCK CAT engine, is in my coach with the ISL370(Flashed to 400). So I never went the aftermarket air filter route. Figured the CFM air feed from my filter supports a BIG BLOCK CAT - so my plumbing is more then adequate on the front end of the engine.

My best to Jon, Alan - and the gang at Brazel's...

Smitty
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Old 03-13-2017, 11:28 PM   #5
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Smitty, thanks for the write up. Did the exhaust sound get any louder inside the coach?
Met Jim at Source last spring as he did the wax valve. After install we took the coach out for a drive. Wanted to see how the CAC would respond without the restrictor in place. My engine temps were on the low side and didn't want no fan speed until needed. One year later still no restrictor in place and no CAC warnings. My fan does not run at all at startup and very minimal even on a hot day. Let's just say I love that wax valve.
After this next round of upgrades I should be finished.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:27 AM   #6
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Thanks Bill, your right don't know what I was thinking. Especially since mine likes to run at lower rpm's.
Did you run the conduit along the bottom of the coach?
Brett,

Here's what I did. Went to Home Depot and picked up some gray 1/2" pvc conduit. My goal was to install the conduit between the frame rails. Above the transmission you can see where the fuel, hydraulic and electrical lines run. The lines run through a styrofoam block. Had to find a way to drill a hole through the styrofoam, but getting a drill up there was impossible. So I took a one inch spade bit, attached a three foot length of 1/4" plastic tubing to the end. This gave me a flexible drill extension. I drilled through by just spinning the tube by hand.

Now I fed one section through the hole, shaking and spinning the conduit to keep it from hanging up. Attached the next length and so on. The conduit made it to the area above the front cargo bay. I pulled the ceiling panel so I could drill through the styrofoam at the fuel tank. From there I fed the conduit to the front and up near the right side of the heater. The rear conduit was run into the last passenger compartment where my Fass pump is.

The pvc conduit can be formed with an electric heat gun. Or you can buy different pre made angle sections.

To pull the wires, I use foundation string line. Tie a small piece of cloth on the string, put into the conduit, go to the other end and attach a vacuum cleaner. I think you get the rest.

I used 1/2" conduit, pulling five wires (fuel and Pyrometer gauge) 50 feet was tight, 3/4" would have been better.

Good luck!

Bill
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:49 AM   #7
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Bill, that sounds like a lot of work. But I do like the idea of running the wires between the frame rails. This will have to be done by myself. I don't want to be paying somebody else to do that kinda work. I have been all around the underside of the coach so I do know what your talking about. Thinking now I should delay my visit until I can get the conduit ran, and then go have the work done. I would do the install myself but when it comes to wiring I just know enough to get myself in trouble.
Thanks
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Old 03-15-2017, 12:27 PM   #8
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Bill, starting the project and wondering is there any reason why flex conduit wouldn't work. Seems like it would be easier to use. But there may be something I am not aware of yet.
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:28 PM   #9
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Brett,

I was also thinking of using flex conduit. I used the solid because I've installed a lot of it and I'm used to forming it with a heat gun.

With flex, I would purchase some fiberglass fish rods (Home Depot has them). Connect the flex to to rods, feed and pull the flex to the front. I would also go up one size for flex conduit to make the wire pull easier. Also, use wire lube.

Bill
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:47 AM   #10
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Alternate wiring solution

Unless you have already used them for some other purpose, you should have a half dozen or so spare conductors capped with bell (crimped-on) caps in the last compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. These are handy for additions to dash accessories such as electric brake controllers, additional gauges and the like...
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Old 03-16-2017, 09:08 PM   #11
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Unless you have already used them for some other purpose, you should have a half dozen or so spare conductors capped with bell (crimped-on) caps in the last compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle. These are handy for additions to dash accessories such as electric brake controllers, additional gauges and the like...
Not all coaches have the extra wires. I have been all over mine and even had a CC tech that knew right where they are hunt for them. So far, no extra wiring has been found
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:13 PM   #12
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So, I just arrived home from our trip over to the west coast. First stop was Brazel's where they installed the FASS pump, fuel pressure gauge, pyrometer, and AERO exhaust. They found my exhaust manifold to be warped, and didn't want to tap and drill it for the pyrometer, as a new manifold was needed. They quoted me 3,300 just for the new manifold, and after I gave them the "are you crazy look", I said no thanks. Overall they did a very neat install on everything, they took their time, and they are very knowledgable on performance installs. I do find them to be on the expensive side of repairs, so not sure I would go back.

From there I went down to JC, where I got new rear Toyo tires at Les Schwab. They put in all new sensors for the Silver Leaf, which is nice to monitor tire pressure, and temperature. The old Toyo's were almost 9 yrs old, but they looked almost like new yet. No signs of cracking anywhere. The fronts which I replaced last year did have some signs of cracking on the inside treads. The new Toyo M170 are a much softer tire than the old M111.

Then I went down to Oregon Motorcoach and met with Jim, and staff. We are looking at redoing the floor, bringing the TV down, new sofa, and cabinet work. I am very impressed with the operation there. Everyone is friendly and helpful.

Then on the way home we stopped at Rixen Enterprises in Sandy. Jim, and his son Mike took their time with me as we went over the Hurricane system. We took it apart and cleaned it. They showed me step by step on the maintenance items. Including the control board. I now feel much better with knowing how it operates. Jim is the guy to talk to if you ever have problems with your Hurricane.

So after all that I was getting ready to head back home when I heard a clunk from underneath the coach. Got out and found my sway bar end links had sheared off. I believe one end had broken some miles back, and finally the other end broke off. So off I went back down to OMC to buy some end links. It took me 30 minutes to reinstall the new ones, and off I went.

Now that I have all the powertrain upgrades I wanted to do. Its my wife's turn to do the interior next.

Brett
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:36 PM   #13
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$3,300 for a stinking manifold? They are out of their minds.

If you think the 3300 was bad, just wait until wifey gets cranked up on the interior. You best be sitting down
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:56 PM   #14
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I agree, probably going to take a trip to Colton truck next fall to have the work done. I also have a small leak on the spacer below the valve cover. Not sure what's the proper name of it.
Then we'll take it to OMC to have the interior work done over the winter months. Yep, already got some rough estimates from Jim, so I am well prepared. But considering our budget for a DP was in the 175 to 200k range, we still have a long way to go. This is going to be our last motorhome, and we feel better fixing up a quality built coach over a Cracker Jack box.
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