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CoCoDave · 10-08-2016, 07:59 PM

My fresh water drain valve on the hot side is stuck open. I've cycled the switch and thumped the valve to no avail. In the mean time I've capped off the pipe leading to the valve so we're not dead in the water, as it were.
What's the usual fix, besides replacement? I've no objection to replacing it, but we're due to leave Monday for Tucson and I could take a crack at it en-route since there's no time to order one and get it in time.

TIA

Ray,IN · 10-08-2016, 08:45 PM

I see in the picture you may remove the entire electric valve and cap the plastic line. Take the valve to a plumbing supply store and ask them to match it to their stock.
OTOH, copy down the make, model, and voltage from the data-plate and phone around to different stores until you find a match.

CoCoDave · 03-13-2017, 05:36 PM

As mentioned in my original post, the drain was capped off at the water heater so we were able to get underway without difficulty.

Finding something like an electrically actuated valve in our neck of the woods is unlikely. So it was off the eBay. Those Red Hat valves are spendy. Fortunately, as it turns out, they're widely used in a variety of applications. The downside to that is that there are a lot of permutations.

Looking at the numbers on the plates in the above images the "Catalog Number", 8210G94, looks like a unique identifier, however it is not. That number is shown on 12VDC and 120VAC actuated valves. It might also be found on normally-open and normally-closed valves but I did not confirm that.

When I ordered one off eBay the valve I got was a 120VAC. Luckily it did not matter. The number plate and the little plastic Red Hat serve to keep the coil assembly attached to the valve body. So it was actually easier to use the old coil and just replace the valve body. I replaced the Red Hat with an "E" clip since the Red Hats do not reliably stay in place. Several of mine have popped off over time.

So the message is to be careful about the valve configuration when ordering.

FWIW

driveit55 · 03-14-2017, 08:34 AM

HI dave,on our magna 2000 the fresh water drain did not close tight one trip and we were very low on fresh water that night on the road,so now i put a rubber cap on the pipe under vaule it just pushes on,Charles

Rsponsford · 03-17-2017, 12:45 AM

Those valves certainly are spendy. I had to rebuild my whole water compartment and replace a few of those vales. After paying for two of the ASCO valves identical to yours I decided to look online to see if I could find a reasonably priced alternative. Here's what I found: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALIL1B2...sms_tai_jo4Yyb

I was skeptical at first since the price is less than $35 but decided it was worth a shot. I replaced two valves with this much more reasonably priced valve a year ago and they still work perfectly. I even keep a couple spares on hand. Good luck!

CoCoDave · 03-17-2017, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driveit55

HI dave,on our magna 2000 the fresh water drain did not close tight one trip and we were very low on fresh water that night on the road,so now i put a rubber cap on the pipe under vaule it just pushes on,Charles

Thanks, Charles. In this situation the water is under pressure so I had to use a 1/2" NPT end cap on the nipple sticking out of the hot water heater. That end cap is now in the "plumbing-stuff" box that stays in the coach.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsponsford

Those valves certainly are spendy. I had to rebuild my whole water compartment and replace a few of those vales. After paying for two of the ASCO valves identical to yours I decided to look online to see if I could find a reasonably priced alternative. Here's what I found: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ALIL1B2...sms_tai_jo4Yyb

I was skeptical at first since the price is less than $35 but decided it was worth a shot. I replaced two valves with this much more reasonably priced valve a year ago and they still work perfectly. I even keep a couple spares on hand. Good luck!

That's a great find. Thanks, Russ.