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Old 11-19-2014, 03:00 PM   #1
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Question Galley slide plumbing leak question(s)

Our 2002 Allure 36' double slide has a kitchen sink drain leak between the bottom of the cabinet below the sink and the floor. If someone has accessed this area before would you please share what you learned regarding how to gain access to that space?

Thanks,
Ernie in Tucson
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Old 11-19-2014, 03:04 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluegrassFan View Post
Our 2002 Allure 36' double slide has a kitchen sink drain leak between the bottom of the cabinet below the sink and the floor. If someone has accessed this area before would you please share what you learned regarding how to gain access to that space?

Thanks,
Ernie in Tucson
Ernie, my 2003 had a kitchen drain leak in the exact same area...I'll go find the thread....it was behind the false wall in the cabinet under the sink in the fixed wall, it was a collar, a rubber collar, with a screw clamp that had worked its way loose over the years. The kitchen sink but also the shower and bathroom went through that clamp....let me go find it...

Here it is....read this and see the attached plumbing...it might be similar to yours....not sure. Hope this helps!!

Galley Slide Water Leak 2003 Storm 31-A

Here are my plumbing schematics that may or may not help you I have a galley slideout too....

Look at page 4 on the pdf Ernie....I doubt there's a lot of difference in the way the manufacturer's can do stuff, but it shows that collar that had worked loose...it was kitchen sink, bathroom sink and shower water all hooked together before dumping down into the gray tank so any one of those running would flood under the slideout and in front of the kitchen sink, making it 'look' like a drain problem from the kitchen sink, but it was in the wall permanent wall that the slideout slinky hoses hooked into.....under my sink, took off the access panel (4 screws) and could access all that plumbing, in the slideout and the fixed wall both....
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File Type: pdf Bless Plumbing Schematics.pdf (642.2 KB, 42 views)
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Old 11-19-2014, 08:38 PM   #3
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The fascia on the bottom of the cabinets can be removed. You will find a piece of flexible hose that starts at the sink pipe and runs towards the rear of the coach. It basically flexes along the length and can get a hole in it. It is an easy repair once you get access to it. Replacement hose and clamps can be found in the big box hardware stores
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:00 AM   #4
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Thank you Lincolnboy2 and dons2346 for your helpful replies. The fascia dons2346 referred to, some times called "toe kick", is indeed removable as one long assembly. The screws that hold it in place are vertical. They screw down through the bottom floor of the cabinets into a strip of wood fastened to the inside of the toe kick. We gently pried up the front edge of the carpet in the bottom of the cabinets and found the square drive screws. Suggest unscrewing them evenly a little bit at a time to lower the multi-segment toe kick to the floor.

We were able to remove the upside down carpeted box in the floor of the kitchen sink cabinet by removing one square drive screw at the base of the aisle side of the box about midway along the side. The other square drive screw was on the left side of the box at the base about two thirds of the way towards the outside wall.

The leak was under the carpeted upside down box. There is a length of PVC, that the ACE hardware guy calls "Spa Tubing", about 18" long that connects the black ABS sink drain to the long run of black ABS drain pipe running under the slide towards the rear of the coach. The leak was where the "flexible" PVC tube enters the ABS fitting. This junction is flexed every time the slide goes out and in.

We removed the PVC tube from the ABS fitting. We cleaned the tube and fitting by scraping off the old substance that was used to glue but not bond the pieces together. We also sparingly used some Acetone to clean the tube and fitting bonding areas. The ACE hardware guy suggested we use "transition" cement to bond the pieces together which we did. Transition cement works to bond PVC and ABS together.

We also put a splint on the connection. We made a sleeve for the PVC tubing by cutting a spacer ring from a 2" PVC coupler to slip over the PVC tube adjacent to the connection to the ABS fitting. We slit the ring crosswise so it can shrink to grip the PVC tube. The spacer brings the OD of the PVC tube up to the OD of the ABS fitting enabling us to tie the two together with a rubber sleeve and two hose clamps intended to join two 2" tubes together. The local hardware stores did not have a 2" to 1.5" rubber reducer coupler or we might have used that.

-- Ernie in Tucson
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:18 AM   #5
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Thanks for the info Bluegrassfan! And the pic! Glad you found it!!!
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