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Old 10-13-2015, 09:31 AM   #1
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Heart Link 2000 Display will not Turn Off

First off I am new to both the RV and the Motor home world so please assume I know nothing about them. I am mechanical (prior aircraft mech.) but my shortfall is electrical - hence my question. I have read everything I could find - owners manual and online to no avail.
Some background - My wife and I just purchased a 2000 CC Magna 40 w/slide. The MH has been sitting for over a year due to the previous owner's health. The previous owner's son drove it around once in a while to "maintain" it. I purchased the MH knowing that the house batteries were completely dead and replaced them 2 days ago. The MH has 4, 12 V, 8D batteries - 2 for the chassis and 2 for the house. the 2 chassis batteries were okay meaning I was able to remove them from the MH, clean them up and top off with distilled water and put them on a 2 amp charge for ~24 hrs.. They are holding the charge after starting the engine a few times over the last couple of days.
The MH has a Heart Freedom 25 with a Heart Interface Link 2000 remote that I read is connected to the batteries. After reinstalling the 2 chassis batteries and installing the 2 new house batteries I noticed that with the Link 2000 interface display would not turn off (go dark) even with the battery disconnect and the house switches in the Off position. The display shows the battery volts, so my (long winded) question is - is that normal or is something not right?
Any help is greatly appreciated and very welcome.
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:32 AM   #2
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Country Coach Owners Club
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It is normal for my Link 2000, but I installed the meter so am not an authority on what should be.

The manual shows the wiring which is direct to the chassis battery with a fused connection.

I have not noted that the chassis battery shut off switch has deactivated the Link 2000 but my House battery switch definitely does not.

http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Dis...-1(Vendor).pdf
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Old 10-14-2015, 11:28 AM   #3
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Thanks

Thank you for your response. I am watching it to see how much battery drain there is so I don't end up with a dead battery when I go to use it.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:36 AM   #4
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TMTschaar,

Mine behaves in the same way as yours and deandec's. There may be "parasitic" loads on your batteries that cannot be eliminated without unhooking a cable from battery. The chassis batteries feed the engine and transmission computers which use some, though not much, current. Current is also required to light the Link 2000 display.

Our coach is plugged in 24X7 when not going down the road. That was not possible with our previous coach, a Monaco Windsor. I had to remove the negative cable from the chassis batteries or they would run down in a couple of days. The house batteries would stay up for a longer period but I don't recall the exact length of time.

Our current coach has two 8-D, flooded lead-acid chassis batteries and four 8-D AGM house batteries. When plugged in after everything has settled down and the batteries are charging at the "float" level, the total current draw on the 120 volt supply is about 1.1 amps or 132 watts. Not a lot in the overall scheme of things. So if it is possible for you to get an extension cord to your coach it might save you the trouble of disconnecting batteries to avoid running them down during storage.

FWIW
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Old 10-15-2015, 04:52 PM   #5
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The Link 2000 is connected directly to the batteries. There is an inline fuse in the battery compartment that you can remove if you want to shut the Link down.
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:03 PM   #6
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First off welcome to the Country Coach family. I have a 2 year younger coach than yours with a similar remote on my dash that indicates charge and controls activation of the charger and inverter. The lights in mine stay on all the time. I have found that there is little power drawn by this. However, you need to make sure the inverter and charger are turned off when you are going to store the coach for any length of time over a day and you are not hooked to power or have a significant solar system. The inverter on does draw significant power.

My coach is all electric and so I have two remote electrical panels. When I am going to store the coach I turn off the house main power switch and turn off the inverter and chargers. Trying to get repair shops to do this is like pulling teeth and has cost me more than one set of batteries due to running the batteries to zero.
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:21 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B Bob View Post
My coach is all electric and so I have two remote electrical panels. When I am going to store the coach I turn off the house main power switch and turn off the inverter and chargers. Trying to get repair shops to do this is like pulling teeth and has cost me more than one set of batteries due to running the batteries to zero.
Bob,

Do you turn everything off at this panel?



What about the Cole-Hersee switch in the chassis battery compartment?

We have not boondocked yet in this coach so I'm trying to figure out how long it will go without starting the generator given that the residential fridge will be running. I need to get off my duff, unplug the coach and light up typical electrical stuff and monitor it to see what happens.

TIA
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Old 10-20-2015, 05:50 PM   #8
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Thank you all for the welcome, information and great advice.
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:12 PM   #9
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Dave,

When I am not using the coach I turn off everything on this panel. The key items are the house disconnect and the inverters and chargers. You need to individually turn off the inverters and chargers. I don't bother with the chassis turn off switch in the second to the last passenger side compartment unless I will be storing the coach for over a few days.

When boondocking I turn off as much as possible. But when boondocking you will need to keep the lower inverter on to power the fridge. I am assuming you have an all electric fridge like ours.

We have 260 watts of solar power on our roof. When everything is off this is way more than enough to keep all batteries topped off. When we boondock I keep an eye on the volts and have the auto generator system working. If when we go to bed the volts are 12.4 or above we easily go to the next morning on the fridge side. I usually turn off the top inverter for the night. In the morning the solar kicks on a bit and normally we are down to 12.1 or 2. I will run the generator for maybe 90 minutes in the morning. Many times at night we are still above 12.4 and I don't bother with the genny. Depends on how good your batteries are, how long you have been off shore power, if the sun is bright.

Without our 260 watts I would think you will need to run the genny for an hour in the evening.

When there are additional people in the motorhome like grandkids no system works. You run generator as needed.
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:01 AM   #10
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Thanks, Bob. Yes, we have an all-electric residential fridge. That's one of the things that gives me pause with regard to boondocking. It seems to run a lot. I know it's not the compressor since we just replaced it in February. I read in some Whirlpool documentation that the duty cycle could be more than 50%.

We don't have any solar and it would not help us except when actually boondocking. The coach is stored under cover and plugged in.

The 12.4 VDC bit of info is helpful.

Thanks again,
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