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Old 09-29-2016, 06:26 PM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 27
Heat Exchanger Motor Replacement

Hi all, I though I would share a little on how to do this as we will all have to do it at some point. First a little back story, last winter I noticed my heater cycle off and on a few times and I thought I had a sensor or something going out. When I tried to turn it on the next day the switch was just loose and I thought the switch had failed.

No problem. Well.... It actually was a real sucky problem
The fan switch had over heated and burned up the bottom corner of the board.
Well I found the switches and the fan switch and replaced them. By the way there is a one amp blocking diode that needs to be soldered in the switch to keep it from feeding back into the lights.

Well I hooked all this up and fired up the heater..... Bam my new switch started to glow so I shut everything down. I opened up the cabinet to the rt of the stove and there is a small panel that covers the bottom. I removed the 6 screws holding that on and you can see half the heat exchanger. If you look along the back, the exchanger is screwed down by little screws attached to L brackets that are a beast to reach. Once you remove the 4 screws you can wiggle the heat exchanger so the motor is in the opening. I was going to use a drill battery to test mine but all the wiring was melted so obviously the motor had failed.

The motor is a red dot 73r 0204 and was about $30 online. It took a little research to get there as my tags had worn off. I strongly considered replacing it with a modern motor until I talked to Greg B. at CCoach and he had 2cgreat points.
1. the last one lasted for 25 yrs with no problems and had water not leaked on the wood above it causing it to swell and pinch it, it still would be today.
2. modern motors are really just a cheap knock off of older motors, the tech has not really changed.
I though about that for a second and realized Greg is a smart man!

Removed the four bolts holding the motor in and pulled motor and cage out.
There is an small screw that holds the cage in. I had a hard time getting the cage off and ended up driving a screwdriver in the back of my motor to keep it from spinning and gently working the cage off. DO NOT BEND THE CAGE...
They are hard to find.

I also tried to knock it off with a punch and it flared out the end of the shaft making things worse. I had to sand the end of the shaft with an emery cloth to get the cage off.

when that was done, two little nuts hold the motor in and revers the process.

It pretty much goes in the opposite of the way it came out and you can reverse fan direction by reversing the wires on the motor. There really is only one. I took the ground wire off and cleaned it up really well to make sure it had a good contact.
Then I tested it. I am inserting a little block of wood next to the exchanger so that the plywood can not swell and pinch it again...
But it was not really a bad job. The toughest part was tracking down the parts and switches but they are all on ebay and amazon.
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Old 09-30-2016, 11:46 PM   #2
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Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 199
Great write-up. Thanks for posting this. I've ordered a new fan motor for my galley fan and this will be a big help! Great idea to put the extra block in there to prevent any future swelling from binding the fan.

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1990 Country Coach Concept 36' Anteres
2002 VW Passat on Kar Kaddy SS
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replacement, replace, heat, ace

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