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Old 10-18-2018, 04:38 PM   #1
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Leak in the gasket on the Charge Air Cooler

My low power problem is coming from an air leak at the gasket where it bolts on, I know that most people replace the CAC but I wanted to know if there is a new gasket available to try before replacing the whole thing. Has anybody removed the allen screws with success (not braking off) and replace it and no air leak.

I know this is the only place it is leaking because we smoke tested the entire system. I know the new ones are welded and will not leak but I would think someone has tried it before they spent $4k+ for a new one and labor.

To me it looks like you remove the allen screws, clean the surface and put a new gasket on without having to remove the CAC from it's position. There is enough room to remove the bolts drop the head down and do this?
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Old 10-18-2018, 04:48 PM   #2
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Hi!

We just dealt with a bad CAC last month. Unfortunatly all of the bolts broken when trying to remove them, well 5 out of 8 despite the mechanic using great care. Corrosion stelel bolts, alum CAC. Also after about 3-4 hours of attempts couldn`t drill them out.

After that it got even more difficult, Freightliner/Cunnins didn't have any in stock, anywhere in the US. Ended up with a aftermarket unit that took 7 days to get.

What year is your coach? Ours is 10 years old.
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Old 10-18-2018, 05:09 PM   #3
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2005
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Old 10-18-2018, 10:13 PM   #4
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If you are going to give it a try, use PB Blaster on the screws for a few days before even trying to turn them. Squirt them a couple of times a day for best results
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Old 10-19-2018, 06:58 AM   #5
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As Dons suggested use the PBlaster, we did. Even tried a little heat (becareful with the heat) but they were just too far gone. Ours are very small bolts, difficult to feel when they are ready to snap, they just seemed to twist off before you knew it.

Our coach is a 2008, and we have owned it 3 1/2 years. Don't know if those bolts had ever been out in its life time. They may have been in there 10 years. I have a collection of motorcycles, have had great success using Neversieze when installing steel bolts into alum. I made sure it was used when our new CAC was installed. Next time I would expect different results.
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Old 10-19-2018, 07:46 AM   #6
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Great advise thank you I have had some people tell me that there is some kind of stuff that I can put on instead of a gasket that will form a type of a weld. Any experience with that?
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Old 10-19-2018, 08:36 AM   #7
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You can try roughing up the area with a rasp, clean well with acetone then use JB Weld about an inch past all the leak area. Assuming you don't have to drive right away and can try some short runs that won't result in a tow if it fails you might be surprised.

I have used the stuff on higher pressure thing than CAC 's in the past with good results.

You just need to be prepared to either re-do at some point or be prepared to have to do a replacement on the road.
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Old 10-19-2018, 10:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ssgritton View Post
My low power problem is coming from an air leak at the gasket where it bolts on, I know that most people replace the CAC but I wanted to know if there is a new gasket available to try before replacing the whole thing. Has anybody removed the allen screws with success (not braking off) and replace it and no air leak.

I know this is the only place it is leaking because we smoke tested the entire system. I know the new ones are welded and will not leak but I would think someone has tried it before they spent $4k+ for a new one and labor.

To me it looks like you remove the allen screws, clean the surface and put a new gasket on without having to remove the CAC from it's position. There is enough room to remove the bolts drop the head down and do this?

I had an inspire that i tested the cac when swaping the rad and found it leaking at the seals. I replaced the cac then for fun took the old cac apart. Had no problem removing the ends. The gasket was rubber with slots cut in it. I just cleaned all the components and re-asembled and it tested just fine. I stuck it in the box the new cac came in and put it on the shelf.
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Old 10-21-2018, 02:01 PM   #9
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I removed repaired my CAC for a different issue and posted some pics ..

I would drop the CAC and repair on the bench. With the bolted end tanks you could remove and fabricate a new rubber gasket.

Are you going to keep coach long term? I would spend the money and upgrade the rad and CAC, it may also be a selling feature when you sell. I did not have the luxury of time for my repair (8-12 weeks delivery new rad/CAC), so did a road repair.

2007 Allure CAC/Oil Cooler Mounting Failure

Brian

PS = The 30 or so cap screws are standard and are easily replaced if broken when removed. Link in my posted thread. I bought at the local MACs supply store in MN.
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Old 10-21-2018, 02:53 PM   #10
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If I could just remove the CAC without having to remove the Rad I would but it looks like something that I would not be able to do on my own.

If the shop says 16 hours for in and out and they know what there doing I don't think that I want to take it on. I do plan on keeping the coach for a while so replacing is the best way to go.
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Old 10-21-2018, 08:33 PM   #11
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If I could just remove the CAC without having to remove the Rad I would but it looks like something that I would not be able to do on my own.



If the shop says 16 hours for in and out and they know what there doing I don't think that I want to take it on. I do plan on keeping the coach for a while so replacing is the best way to go.

There must be a difference from 2005 to 2007 model years. I was able to drop the hydraulic oil cooler and CAC without removing radiator.

Now my CAC “fell out” as my upper support bolts (8 of the cap screws bolted to hanger) were sheared off. Putting it back in was a contortionist exercise with arms and fingers. Lol.

Brian
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Old 10-21-2018, 08:50 PM   #12
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When we had our issue, we were on thee road in Wyoming. The repair was performed by the Freightliner Dealer in Cheyanne. The quote was 10 hours, and they came in at quote.

While there another coach came in with a dirty radiator, they needed their Cac and Radiator pulled to repair, quote was 13 hours. The owner of the other coach asked why the difference,,,,, and the answer was coach construction. Ours was easier to get out then the other coach.

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Old 10-21-2018, 11:39 PM   #13
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On the inspire i removed the grill and the cac was mounted outside the radiator along with the hydraulic cooler. i removed both from the side of the coach then dropped the rad out the bottom.
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:31 PM   #14
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So Brian, are you telling me that I would only have to remove the oil radiator and CAC will come out to be replaced or repaired with out dropping the radiator? how many hours for just that part? I was being told you also have to drop the radiator?? Now I'm confused
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