Community Forums

arrowheadbob · 09-13-2010, 03:46 PM

We have a 2006 CC Inspire 360, and I am wondering if anyone knows of a keep-alive (always on) 12V wire in the area above the door or in the audio/video compartment? We have a Solar Trac alarm system and I need to run a very low power (18mA) line to it to keep it charged. Problem is we store it under a canopy and after a week or two the battery in the alarm dies.

Also, on a totally different subject, we have the Norcold 4 door SS fridge and it seems to take forever (like all day) to cool down on AC. Is this normal?

We just got the coach a few months ago, so I am sure that I will be back with more questions before long.

Thanks in advance.

DriVer · 09-13-2010, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arrowheadbob

Also, on a totally different subject, we have the Norcold 4 door SS fridge and it seems to take forever (like all day) to cool down on AC. Is this normal?

I usually turn on our fridge the night before and I don't worry about it. Perhaps some one else will sustain this comment but I believe that our fridges cool quicker and better on LP.

wa8yxm · 09-13-2010, 08:34 PM

Ok a few questions: Where is the MANUAL (not remote) control for your power awning if you have one? (mine is over the door and the power lead is always hot)

Option two. Television compartment

There are two common TV-Antenna (source) Switches in motor homes. .One is a wall plate with a switch, And LED a 12 volt outlet (HINT HINT HINT) and an antenna connector.

The other is a box with many buttons.

I do not recommend the 12 volt outlet.. BUT.

In both cases there is a 12 volt (And a ground) lead on the back side of the switch. Power for the pre-amp that is mounted up in the antenna itself. 18ma well within the fuse rating.

arrowheadbob · 09-14-2010, 09:55 AM

Thanks. At least it sounds like my fridge is normal.

arrowheadbob · 09-14-2010, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm

Ok a few questions: Where is the MANUAL (not remote) control for your power awning if you have one? (mine is over the door and the power lead is always hot)

Option two. Television compartment

There are two common TV-Antenna (source) Switches in motor homes. .One is a wall plate with a switch, And LED a 12 volt outlet (HINT HINT HINT) and an antenna connector.

The other is a box with many buttons.

I do not recommend the 12 volt outlet.. BUT.

In both cases there is a 12 volt (And a ground) lead on the back side of the switch. Power for the pre-amp that is mounted up in the antenna itself. 18ma well within the fuse rating.

Thanks for all the info. Yes, my awning controls are over the door also. I will check it out with a meter this week. I am hoping the 12V will stay hot even while the house battery switch is shut off, which is what I usually do when it is in storage. I will check all the options you have given.
Thanks !

"007" · 09-14-2010, 11:14 AM

Welcome to irv2 Bob.
Like said your fridge will take overnight to cool down if the box temps remain high this thread may help resolve that problem.
The freezer usually does not have a problem freezing.

TQ60 · 09-14-2010, 11:53 AM

If the drain is only 18 MA, then another option is to add a small gell cell type battery near your device.

a 12 volt 6 amp hour unit is about $20.00 or less, and should run an 18ma load for quite awhile.

Do NOT get one at radio shack, I doubt they have them and it would likely be old, look in the yellow pages under batteries and call around.

Make sure the date is less than a month old as fresh is better.

Be sure to add a fuse to the connection, and also isolate it from the rest, the battery needs to support only the alarm, a diode will do the trick nicely.

mattandcarol · 09-14-2010, 02:57 PM

Bob, if you are going to turn off the coach power at the door it will do just that and I'm assuming that you are also turning the chassis disconnect to off as well. If not the power toggle for the awning would be your best bet since it would be the easiest to access.
Matt

arrowheadbob · 09-14-2010, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 007";702503]Welcome to irv2 Bob.
Like said your fridge will take overnight to cool down if the box temps remain high this [B][URL="http://www.irv2.com/forums/f86/i-need-better-refrigerator-venting-70687.html

thread[/URL][/B] may help resolve that problem.
The freezer usually does not have a problem freezing.

Thanks for the link. I very likely will come in handy. And also, thanks for the welcome!

arrowheadbob · 09-14-2010, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TQ60

If the drain is only 18 MA, then another option is to add a small gell cell type battery near your device.

a 12 volt 6 amp hour unit is about $20.00 or less, and should run an 18ma load for quite awhile.

Do NOT get one at radio shack, I doubt they have them and it would likely be old, look in the yellow pages under batteries and call around.

Make sure the date is less than a month old as fresh is better.

Be sure to add a fuse to the connection, and also isolate it from the rest, the battery needs to support only the alarm, a diode will do the trick nicely.

Thanks for the suggestion, but since we are not full-timers, I am afraid the battery will die during storage of the RV (several weeks at a time). The storage place has outlets, but they are not functional at this point - they claim that people are constantly blowing the breakers.

arrowheadbob · 09-14-2010, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattandcarol

Bob, if you are going to turn off the coach power at the door it will do just that and I'm assuming that you are also turning the chassis disconnect to off as well. If not the power toggle for the awning would be your best bet since it would be the easiest to access.
Matt

That's what I was afraid of. I turn the house power off at the door and the chassis power off in the battery bay when I store it. I was hoping there may be a "keep-alive" circuit around there, like is commonly used to maintain memory on radio channels, etc. I really don't want to run a keep-alive wire from the house battery all the way over there.
Thanks