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Old 10-14-2015, 11:15 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by smlranger View Post
Do all CC's have this circulation/booster pump? Specifically, did CC install them on Allures?
I removed my rear "school bus pump" circulation pump about 9 years ago after three on the road failures.

The front one still works and heats water going down the road.

Smitty77's Allure has/had one per his previous post.
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Old 10-14-2015, 11:34 PM   #44
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That's the pump I mentioned. Is actually good news. I bought a new pump locally and relatively inexpensive. Its a tight fit. I used my wifes plastic apron to channel the coolant into a pail and keep myself dry. Caught hell when she found out but I was dry. Dropped about 5 gallons of coolant. I could have just bypassed but decided to just replace the pump. The pump seals are what went out. I might have the part number if you need it.
As for your ac
One dedicated inverter runs the forward roof ac while the other two run off shore power. The under bed unit runs with your dash air with the compressor powered by the engine

Yep, it's the pump I mentioned also. I would bypass it as suggested. But also be sure you disconnect the wire that feeds it, and wrap the end of it so it does not short out.

If you do not feel comfortable doing this, any competent (Now, not saying your not competent!) mobile RV Mechanic should be able to do so for you.

Our OTR heater is working fine with only the front pump circulating the hot coolant to the front heater core. As I mentioned, many that help build CC's - have said this was not one of their better ideas!.

Best to you,
Smitty
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:08 AM   #45
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As an additional note if I am remembering correctly when I replaced mine country coach used short preformed hose to connect the pump since the inlet and outlet were at one end.There was a coupling connecting the preformed hose to the system hose. The reason I mention this is if you wanted to bypass one would just remove the preformed hose and replace with about a foot and a half of standard hose and use the existing couplings.
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Old 10-15-2015, 07:06 AM   #46
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What is the cost of this pump and can Kevin Waite get it? My coach will be in a shop in November for a few pre-winter service items and I may proactively have mine replaced.
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:12 AM   #47
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What is the cost of this pump and can Kevin Waite get it? My coach will be in a shop in November for a few pre-winter service items and I may proactively have mine replaced.
I don't recall the actual costs, but believe it was between $200-300? But, if not just bypassing, I would pay the place doing the work a bit extra, and have them remount it in a different location a bit further away from the heat source of the engine. I also recall that others have had the orientation of the installed location shuffled 180 degrees, and that has helped on longevity too. (Lots of plastic on this pump, and the engine/exhaust heat source is usually the reason for early demise.)

You also might want to check with another source of expertise, like Butch Williams, and ask him his opinion on if 'the bypass and running with one pump' approach is sound. (I heard it from enough sources, that I feel it is safe to do so.) That by itself, a proactive 'bypass' could avoid problems while on a trip!

Best,
Smitty
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:21 AM   #48
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Yes, the pump will run whenever the engine is running so it will leak with or without heat on.

It is not easy to get to but I don't know your skill or agility level. For a mechanic, with a pit or lift, it is a breeze to get to. I really recommend bypass as I have heard of nobody who has been unhappy with heater performance following bypass.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:44 PM   #49
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Yes, the pump will run whenever the engine is running so it will leak with or without heat on.



I was wondering about that, but that explains it


It is not easy to get to but I don't know your skill or agility level. For a mechanic, with a pit or lift, it is a breeze to get to. I really recommend bypass as I have heard of nobody who has been unhappy with heater performance following bypass.
To bypass it what size, length hose you need? Would you still take the pump out even if you bypass it?
Thank you very much!
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:09 PM   #50
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I am not certain of the size but think it is 5/8" rubber or silicon heater hose. All you need, after you confirm the size, is a foot of hose and two same size hose barb insert unions. I prefer brass. Add four clamps and your done. Clamp off the hoses, remove from pump and join the ends using the unions, clamps and hose. Remove pump and cap off the wires.
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:08 PM   #51
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To bypass it what size, length hose you need? Would you still take the pump out even if you bypass it?
Thank you very much!
I do not remember, but I just used a plastic coupler. It has lasted about 8 years.

I did take the pump out. It is still on my shelf. I recall it was about a $250 part in 2007.
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:19 PM   #52
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The pump isn't needed as you have a couple of other pumps in the coolant loop. Remove it and replace with a piece of heater hose and some clamps. The pump has no effect on your cooling system. Cost of the pump is in the 200-300 range. That can be found on the internet with the part number. I have a pump in the shed but I am 250 miles away so I can't get you a part number.
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Old 10-15-2015, 11:47 PM   #53
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Well, one more thing to look for in the Magna!!

My "to do" list keeps getting longer, not shorter!

The new sat. controller came in a couple days ago, haven't gotten it in and tested yet, the MCD motor came today. Still need to finish the LED conversion although I'm about half done now.
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Old 10-16-2015, 01:47 AM   #54
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The job is tight. you sit on the floor and work over the driveshaft. Dont want any higher or its tough to reach.


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Old 10-16-2015, 09:57 AM   #55
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I want to thank you all of you; IASM, gsander1, deandec, dons2346, smitty, smlranger, DMTTRANSPORT and of course Mr_D! Your helpful comments, pictures and suggestions have been very valuable.

Now, for a wild suggestion - WHAT IF you put a "Y" and two shut off valves before and after the pump, replace the pump if it fails on the road just turn off the valves to the pump and turn on the valves for the bypass?

It maybe a weird idea, but I thought I ask!

Have a great day
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Old 10-16-2015, 10:14 AM   #56
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I want to thank you all of you; IASM, gsander1, deandec, dons2346, smitty, smlranger, DMTTRANSPORT and of course Mr_D! Your helpful comments, pictures and suggestions have been very valuable.

Now, for a wild suggestion - WHAT IF you put a "Y" and two shut off valves before and after the pump, replace the pump if it fails on the road just turn off the valves to the pump and turn on the valves for the bypass?

It maybe a weird idea, but I thought I ask!

Have a great day


No reason that would not work. But sincerely, you will never miss the pump, so why bother...

Our's started a slow leak in the middle of British Columbia on our way back down the Cassier Highway. That was just a loose hose fitting, and snugging it up stopped the dripping, maybe lost 1/2 gallon before I realized it was leaking.

I elected to bypass it the next time I was in the shop, my pump is still installed where it used to hang, with the power unplugged the hot lead wrapped in electrical tape.

We were driving just 5 weeks ago between Tetons and Yellowstone in the high 20's - the combo of OTR Heater (with the one pump up front doing the work), along with the HyroHot Engine Loop heated coach heaters, kept us nice and warm. (We did close the door to the bedroom, and only had the front zone on.) And if ever really needed, we could also turn on the electric heater we have and set it on the floor. The generator is always available if needed!

But, no doubt your bypass with valves would work, if you wish to replace the pump and retain it. The only downside is more connections in the system, and each connection is an opportunity for failure.

Best,
Smitty
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