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MarylandRich · 03-05-2017, 01:53 PM

I will look for those fuses but don't remember seeing them I have resettable circuit breakers maybe that's it, but I will be locked. Here is a picture showing what the manual says about the on off position of the heart inverter.

MarylandRich · 03-05-2017, 02:06 PM

The pics are upright in my iPad, and even the 16 yr old is stumped, but here is the batt bay.

CoCoDave · 03-05-2017, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarylandRich

I can't find where that cord goes to the inverter I assume it's underneath it which means I have to unbolt it from the floor. I have found the other end of it plugged into the remote easy to get to. If I unplug it from the remote will that give us the same outcome? Sure saves a lot of laying on my back on Joey slides in that bay.last question about the inverter I have read that the inverter should be in the off position because of the remote.I believe it even says that in the manual, is that correct or should it be in the on position?

Here's the front panel of my inverter/charger.

Yours may be different. We have two of these because it's an all-electric coach. That said, I don't see where it would matter if you unplugged the control cable at the Heart Interface rather than at the inverter/charger chassis itself. As for being "on" - both of mine were turned on by way of the little blister button in the upper left corner labeled "Invert" and they reflect that on the Heart Interface panels in the cockpit where they can also be turned on and off.

There are small pamphlet-like manuals for the inverter/charger and for the Heart Interface remote panel. They explain how to determine the status of the inverter/charger from the behavior of the LED's on the front panel. e.g. "Overtemp" , "Overload", etc. Those LED's should reflect the condition that the inverter/charger is in AGM mode. I think you mentioned that you have AGM batteries.

HTH

MarylandRich · 03-05-2017, 02:58 PM

You have the replacement inverter that if mine is bad I will have to get it it's pretty much a direct replacement according to country coach without having to do much of any modification including the remote panel. However at this point I have bypassed the transfer switch completely by going directly into the main breaker panel and wonder of wonders the inverter is charging now. So I'm thinking transfer switch instead I will keep you posted.

deandec · 03-05-2017, 03:06 PM

My battery bank Class T fuses are in the positive house battery cable run to the inverter.

One is mounted on the wall behind the House Batteries and covered by a clear plastic shield but visible when looking behind and above the batteries. Trace your positive cable attached to the positive terminal of your battery bank.

Maybe others with your model rig can verify if your rig have such fuses.

CoCoDave · 03-05-2017, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarylandRich

You have the replacement inverter that if mine is bad I will have to get it it's pretty much a direct replacement according to country coach without having to do much of any modification including the remote panel. However at this point I have bypassed the transfer switch completely by going directly into the main breaker panel and wonder of wonders the inverter is charging now. So I'm thinking transfer switch instead I will keep you posted.

So you know that it inverts (makes 120VAC out of 12 VDC) which says your 300 AMP fuse is good since that's how the inverter gets its 12 VDC. And now that you know it will charge if it gets externally provided 120 VAC, both sides of the inverter/charger appear to be OK.

As mentioned before, it's easy to take the cover plate off the transfer switch and check it out. It's not uncommon for transfer switches to fail. And one of the most common failures is a high-resistance (loose) connection which smokes the terminal and some of the wire. That's a failure mode which is promoted by the vibration of the vehicle's operation going down the road.

FWIW

birdhunter · 03-05-2017, 03:41 PM

Must be a bad transfer switch just replace it

MarylandRich · 03-05-2017, 03:44 PM

This is what I have, again 2 push button breakers 1 Dom,1 gen

Sorry for the inverted pic

MarylandRich · 03-05-2017, 03:58 PM

Yes one of the first things I did was get to the transfer switch take the cover off and meter it,both with shore power and with Gen Power. It metered out fine on all 3 positions, Now I'm thinking there's not something else going on there but that's why I had kind of gotten past the transfer switch as being a problem . I have a phone call the country coach at noon tomorrow and I'll have this conversation with them as well also a friend of mine who's a big boat guy repairs lots of them is going to take a peek at it also so that I have a second opinion but it's looking like yes the transfer switch is the main culprit.

birdhunter · 03-05-2017, 03:59 PM

You have a 16 year old transfer switch and a 16 year old inverter I presume period if either one is still working properly you're doing very well

CoCoDave · 03-05-2017, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarylandRich

This is what I have, again 2 push button breakers 1 Dom,1 gen

Sorry for the inverted pic

The 300 amp fuse is near the upper left corner of this image. There are two in the image of my inverter compartment because of the all-electric option with two inverter/chargers. They are fuses, not circuit breakers. You should have one around there somewhere. In any case it's likely that your fuse is good because you say you can get 120VAC out of the inverter. The 300 amp fuse is in the path through which the 12VDC is supplied to the inverter and from which it makes the 120VAC.

FWIW

deandec · 03-05-2017, 09:20 PM

Just a caution.

The two fuses Coco Dave pictures are in the inverter compartment.

When I have had your symptoms, a similar fuse in the battery compartment has failed.

Perhaps you have one (some) there.