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Old 03-02-2016, 12:10 PM   #15
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Brian,
Thanks, this is really good info to have on hand. Has anyone performed these test on their own? I do not own a phototachmeter, but after a few quick searches they don't seem too expensive. At least now with this info any good shop could perform these test as well.
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Old 03-03-2016, 10:05 AM   #16
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Our fan controller acted up twice in the last 5 years that we've had the coach, yep, default to High Speed. Both times, I was able to unplug and clean the controller harness and it would start working again.

After researching the costs to replace, and that many coach owners (not just CC owners) were on their second or third controllers. I decided to go with the KISS approach, and had Source Engineering install their Wax Valve.

Costs were about the same as replacing the existing Fan Controller. And what I really liked was the S.E. Wax Valve switches the fan over to variable, vs three stage of the OEM Fan Controller. So it is only spinning as fas at it needs to, and thus using less engine power to do so. (Not a direct belted fan, of course, but more fan speed does end up diverting more engine power from the wheels.)

Never hurst to check out other options. And of course, go with what you feel comfortable with!

Best,
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:41 PM   #17
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For the past 4 to 6 weeks, I have been having the same problem. Within a minute or two of starting, the fan goes into hi-speed. Also, after driving for 2 to 3 hours, when we stop for lunch, the fan is in hi-speed, but the Silver Leaf indicates that coolant temp is between 174 to 180 degrees. When we first picked up the coach little over a year ago, the coolant temps were between 195 to 205 degrees. What should the coolant temps be for a ILS400 in a 2007 37 ft Allure 470? Also, should I be thinking of replacing the fan controller?
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:56 AM   #18
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For the past 4 to 6 weeks, I have been having the same problem. Within a minute or two of starting, the fan goes into hi-speed. Also, after driving for 2 to 3 hours, when we stop for lunch, the fan is in hi-speed, but the Silver Leaf indicates that coolant temp is between 174 to 180 degrees. When we first picked up the coach little over a year ago, the coolant temps were between 195 to 205 degrees. What should the coolant temps be for a ILS400 in a 2007 37 ft Allure 470? Also, should I be thinking of replacing the fan controller?

Those temps are not out of range for our coaches (I have similar coach, engine build date Dec 2006). I plan to change thermostat this spring and see if temps shown on Silverleaf increase to 180-190. Engine temps are a function of ambient and engine load and mine do increase to 190-195 under load and higher ambients.

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Old 03-22-2016, 03:20 PM   #19
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Arrived home from a 1300k mile trip. Before leaving I took apart the controller harness and blew it out with the compressor. It did seem to be working better, as it did not go to high speed after initial startup.
During the trip the temps ran mostly around 178, with it getting as high as 189 during long steep climbs.
When I would pull over the fan would either be on high or idle, even though the temps would always be the same. My mpg's may have dropped slightly as I got 8.9 on the way down, and 9.5 on the way back. I always drive with the cruise set on 65mph.
On this trip I also noticed the rear of the motorhome getting a lot more dirtier than normal, with what appears like black asphalt specks. Thinking that the fan could be kicking up more dirt.
I am going to drive over to CC in the next few weeks to have it checked out. I wish I would have been more aware of this when I first bought the coach, so I would know if its acting different now.
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:08 PM   #20
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On my C-9S it is an hydraulic fan with the sensor attached to the bracket that holds the hydraulic pump. In the fan assembly there is a metal plate with slots that the sensor monitors for fan speed. This all ended up being a $2800 job with Ring CAT in lake city Florida. Before my fan blew up it was always on a high speed, I believe. I was getting very low mileage but my operating temperature was always 190-195 degrees. Now that it is fixed and the fan does change speeds and so does my temp gauge until it gets what it is set for at an final operating speed and temp. I now am getting 6.7 mpg with running the genset dry camping at the night only before bed and in the morning to get ready again. I still think though that I am going to get better mileage as time goes on but will see. When we first got this a CAT mechanic said around 5-7MPG because of the DPF.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:33 PM   #21
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This may sound crazy, but is it possible to manually control the fan up front? I bet that I would hardly ever have it in high speed.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:24 PM   #22
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I would suggest you drive over to Oregon Motorcoach instead of "the factory".

They are a bunch of ex factory techs that for sure know their stuff
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:57 PM   #23
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I'm with Don, head over to OMC. I went there this last fall and had a full set of shocks installed 90min not bad.
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Old 05-10-2016, 12:09 PM   #24
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Went over to Junction City last week. After cleaning and playing around with the Sauer Danfoss controller the temps started running all over the place.

My first stop was at Source Engineering where they installed the thermal valve conversion. They put in a in-line restrictor to give a good fan speed for the A/C, but for me I thought it was too high on initial start up. They removed the restrictor and now I have no fan speed until my temp readings get to around 175.

On the drive home my temp readings were staying really close at 185, on a steep long grade it got to 192.

Having this setup is really nice as now I am only using the amount of fan speed that I need. Without the restrictor I will not be able to run the dash A/C until I get up to operating temp.

From there I went to CC where Eric did an alignment, and a few other minor repairs. Both ride height levels were off, and toe was way out. After the adjustments the coach drives really nice.
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Old 05-12-2016, 08:17 AM   #25
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I replaced out my coolant and thermostat this spring; with the new 180F thermostat I now run about 190-195 normal and 200-205 climbing hills. The old, original thermostat appears to have been weak and possibly opening fully before 180F.

I have also know that with dash AC turned on, my fan starts on high. With the dash AC off, my fans starts on low.

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Old 05-12-2016, 09:23 AM   #26
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I was told that the fan controller goes to high when the A/C is on to keep heat and pressure from building up in the system. But going to high for this reason is overkill, and a medium speed would be plenty good.

Now that I have the wax valve without the restrictor in place, my fan does not come on until around 175, and is at medium speed at operating temp of 185. So I hope that medium fan speed is good enough for the A/C.

I have not ran the A/C with this new setup, so is there a way to test and see if my A/C is running normal?
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Old 05-12-2016, 06:52 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by bneukam View Post
I was told that the fan controller goes to high when the A/C is on to keep heat and pressure from building up in the system. But going to high for this reason is overkill, and a medium speed would be plenty good.

Now that I have the wax valve without the restrictor in place, my fan does not come on until around 175, and is at medium speed at operating temp of 185. So I hope that medium fan speed is good enough for the A/C.

I have not ran the A/C with this new setup, so is there a way to test and see if my A/C is running normal?
Hi Brett,
I also wanted to get rid of my fan controller. The only reason I didn't was the A/C issue. When you run the dash A/C the fan controler runs the fan to remove the heat from the freon running through the condenser. This keeps the high side pressures down. There is a switch that is supposed to turn off the compressor if pressures go to high. If there is no air being drawn through the condenser pressures goes up.
Smitty, a member here, has the same setup as you. Maybe he'll chime in and give his recommendation.
I was thinking of adding another condenser up front with electric fans, but since I've got my system working fairly well I didn't go through that hassle.
If your system is charged, I'd just try it out an see if it cools enough. The more air drawn through the condenser the better cooling you'll get.
Bill
P.S. My son also lives in Boise.
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:12 PM   #28
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Hey Bill,
Thanks for the info. Next trip is planned in two weeks, so Ill give the A/C a try then. It always performed really well with the fan controller.

Ill keep every posted on the results.

Hopefully your son is a Boise State fan!
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