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Old 12-28-2015, 05:23 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by BRex45 View Post
Smitty 77

Could you advise where you purchased your high powered solar panels?
Any recommendations where to buy in the Pac northwest?

Thanks for replying, our Intrigue has ZERO = NONE solar panels and would at least like to get started on that route.

Thanks!
These were from:

Solar Panels, Inverters, Racks & Mounts | Direct Wholesale Solar

I felt I got a good/fair price, for a good quality product. And note, the specific panel I ended up with, was recommended to me from a pretty knowledgeable guy on the Escapees Forum.

That being said, this was coming on 3 years ago now, and the solar industry changes fast. And for sure calling around and getting quotes from other suppliers is recommended.

Most of my other components, were purchased from Northern Arizona Wind & Power out of Flagstaff. I was, and still consider myself, very much a rookie... (I do my rest to read up on things, ask questions on boards, and even then - admit that the buzz words sometimes fly over my head!)

And while I've never had any first had experience with AM Solar, I have recommended them to others going thru the region. I trust the input from some of the posters on other forums, that give them good reviews.

And you could see earlier in this thread, that Batterypro (Larry) at Starlight Solar out of Yuma, is also a person I respect. (Have not met him but hope to meet both him and Debbie when we're in Yuma early next year.)

Both of these companies sell products too, and sure worth calling to at least put together a quote for you.

$.02!

Best to you, and all,
Smitty
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:59 PM   #16
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Smity, how do you maintain power when you are parked under trees, where you don't have direct sun.
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:07 PM   #17
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Smity, how do you maintain power when you are parked under trees, where you don't have direct sun.
! Charisma... !

I run the generator in the AM until I reach 90% SOC. Then at dinner time, I run it again until it reaches 95% SOC. I do this up to two days, then on the thrid day I take to 95% in the AM, and start a liite earlier in the late afternoon and go unti I get 100%. Very seldom need to do this, as even with partial shading, the solar does a pretty good job. And this is a benefit of the higher costs for AGM's - they charge faster.
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Old 12-28-2015, 11:41 PM   #18
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Just an observation.

I have found that my 100W solar panel does not keep up with the energy draw of my propane sniffer and my link 2000 direct wired volt meter during Sacramento winter. My four 6V batteries decline to about 12.3dcv over a period of 4 days if I leave the house battery switched on.

A separate inverter just for the new refer and a separate battery shut off switch for that circuit might be more efficient for your solar application (ie shut off the house battery for everything but the refer).
100w isn't doing much good in cloudy days... Something to think about.
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Old 12-29-2015, 09:25 AM   #19
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Recharge rate, this has always been trouble for me. I have no idea what state my batteries are really in, my coach only has about 8 LEDs, displaying 15v to 9v, (I think) so when the batteries run down to about 11volts, I kick on the generator until it runs back up to 13 volts. Maybe this is all I need to do, but it just seems like I may be running the generator needlessly at times, it would be cool for me to have an automated system that runs the generator when necessary. But this is why I am looking at solar because it would be more automated and not wasting fuel during the day.
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:48 AM   #20
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I probably have the same battery led increments of 0.5 dcv on my upper dash panel.

I installed a Link 2000 meter and inverter controller several years ago to get a digital readout in 0.1 increments on both the house and chassis batteries.

When the battery is reportedly full at 12.6 and half full at 12.2, those 0.5 dcv increments displayed on the dash panel are adequate but not informative to my comfort level.

When reading 12.0 on the panel meter I do not know the actual state of charge of the battery. Is it 12.25 rounded down or 11.75 rounded up?

Since the number of deep recharge cycles are finite in the life of the battery, I attempt to begin recharging at about 12.2 dcv.

Does it make any difference to the life of the battery? I do not know. I just assume that it does.

The Link also added a battery Equalization control to the mix. (Do not buy a Link Meter however. That is a different discussion.)
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Old 01-13-2016, 12:46 AM   #21
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Hi Dean, good idea, I plan on installing a new solar system and will definitely purchase a much better battery meter. Well I decided that all this is too much for me to worry about all at once. So I ordered my dometic fridge it's much larger than our old dometic so I had to remove the upper cabinet to make room. I saved the front panel and doors and moved them down to create an access panel below the fridge. I am thinking I am going to like a higher fridge.

Residential fridge makes sense but always parking in the sun or risking spoiled food on long trips does not sound like a good trade off. However once I install the solar and am comfortable with its power production then I will consider swapping it out again. But for now LP is our preferred option.
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:41 AM   #22
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By the way we chose

Dometic RM3962LSSIMF New Generation 9 Cubic Feet 2-Way RV Refrigerator with Stainless Steel Solid Double Doors Eye Level LED Temperature Display and Ice Maker
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:12 AM   #23
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To allow for the larger fridge I removed the upper cabinet, moved wires to an adjoining cabinet, framed up a lower cabinet stand utilizing the upper cabinet face and doors which makes a great access compartment under the fridge while raising the fridge 13" off the floor.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ea7jwtkpv...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tbukswjdnp...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xhku63tc15...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gd5z2uxrd3...%20AM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/246swurz32...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mw92mm87qm...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
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Old 01-13-2016, 10:43 AM   #24
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Good work. Thanks for posting the pics.
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:24 PM   #25
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Something I will tell you about is a different RV fridge made by Dometic, and Norcold and at least one other company.

THe Dometic and Norcold models are DESIGNED for RV use however

Both of these (I hope to find a link to at least one) are Compressor Driven, Just like your Residential model, ONly the power draw is a tad lower.. Like 40 watts. not 40 lower, but 40 PERIOD (Door closed) I'm always amazed that I have to type "Door closed" cause the dang light upps the power draw by 50% (it's 20 watts).

I do not know if the link is still good but if my Absorption Fridge ever fails I'm going to seriously consider one of these.

Found the Dometic Catalog http://www.dometic.com/QBankFiles3/E...alog_32016.pdf

Try page 16
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:37 PM   #26
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Good work. Thanks for posting the pics.
Thanks dean, The fridge should be here mid week, We will pop it in and shoot photos. I had a local rv center quote over a $1000 for the install, I doubt it would have turned out any better. Love tinkering on the old girl anyway.
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:50 AM   #27
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What refrigerator did you remove?

Your cavity appears similar to ours with the old Dometic RM7030 side x side refer installed.
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Old 01-15-2016, 12:19 AM   #28
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What refrigerator did you remove?

Your cavity appears similar to ours with the old Dometic RM7030 side x side refer installed.

We had the original domestic 4804, it was a great 7cf refrigerator, it had an odd secondary 110 cooling compressor specifically for the ice maker underneath the refer. I don't know if they all were setup with it, but it looked like a fairly new compressor and chiller.
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