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Old 09-06-2014, 11:46 AM   #1
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Onan code 33

Onan Code 33

Just thought I'd pass this on. My Onan HDKAK, SPEC H started shutting down again, and this time I was getting a codes 33, overheat. Turns out is was the overheat sensor. I tried replacing it, was able to remove part of it, bit the bottom probe half of the sensor broke off and stayed inside the shroud/flange. Okay, no problem, I'll just change the shroud too. While removing I realized that the whole front of the engine gearbox had to be removed to get the last shroud bolt off. Way to go Kabota! FIREUP on rv.net said he was able to remove the last shroud bolt by removing the engine head. Since my Onan is side mounted, I Decided to take it in and let Onan do it after we got back to FL. During discussion with brother-in-law, he suggested to try an EZ-out. Wala! It came right out! Runs good now, plus no more white smoke and hard starts during cooler weather. Apparently that sensor also tells the ECM the temperature so it knows how long to heat the glow plugs. Mine wasn't heating the glow plugs. Before, As soon as I hit the start button the starter engaged without heating the glow plugs which made it really hard to start in cooler weather with lots of white smoke (unburned diesel). Now when I hit the starter button, there's a delay with an audible clicking sound while the glow plugs heat up, then the starter engages. This hard-start issue started about 100 hours ago, and progressively got worse. So, if you're getting hard starts with white smoke, its a telltale sign that your overheat sensor is going bad and you will eventually have problems keeping it running in warm/hot weather. Happy trails...

Larry, 03 Allure, 30856.
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Old 10-08-2014, 04:39 PM   #2
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Onan repair in Florida?

Hey, I'm in Brooksville, Florida, and need to get my 7.5 onan/diesel running again. I believe its sensor related, but don't know where to start?
Do you have somebody you can trust that works on these? Thanks, John
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:27 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by JTLambert View Post
Hey, I'm in Brooksville, Florida, and need to get my 7.5 onan/diesel running again. I believe its sensor related, but don't know where to start?
Do you have somebody you can trust that works on these? Thanks, John
Hello John

I was going to take my gen into Noah's Arc in Cocoa, FL 321 639-8070. Never had work done by them, but bought parts there. All they do is generators, and I think only Onan? What's your doing? And are you seeing any red flashing lights (fault codes) in the start switch?

Larry
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:50 AM   #4
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Getting the sensor out is a major PIA. Our had the 33 fault and after some reading I decided to replace it myself. Heated up the housing with a torch then cranked on it until like yours it broke off. Finally after some penetrating oil and tapping it inward to loosen it I worked it back out with a home made piece of wire shaped to get to it by removing the thermostat. That two days of fooling around saved me a bunch of money though
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:54 PM   #5
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Hours

Quote:
Originally Posted by ldfeat View Post
Onan Code 33

Just thought I'd pass this on. My Onan HDKAK, SPEC H started shutting down again, and this time I was getting a codes 33, overheat. Turns out is was the overheat sensor. I tried replacing it, was able to remove part of it, bit the bottom probe half of the sensor broke off and stayed inside the shroud/flange. Okay, no problem, I'll just change the shroud too. While removing I realized that the whole front of the engine gearbox had to be removed to get the last shroud bolt off. Way to go Kabota! FIREUP on rv.net said he was able to remove the last shroud bolt by removing the engine head. Since my Onan is side mounted, I Decided to take it in and let Onan do it after we got back to FL. During discussion with brother-in-law, he suggested to try an EZ-out. Wala! It came right out! Runs good now, plus no more white smoke and hard starts during cooler weather. Apparently that sensor also tells the ECM the temperature so it knows how long to heat the glow plugs. Mine wasn't heating the glow plugs. Before, As soon as I hit the start button the starter engaged without heating the glow plugs which made it really hard to start in cooler weather with lots of white smoke (unburned diesel). Now when I hit the starter button, there's a delay with an audible clicking sound while the glow plugs heat up, then the starter engages. This hard-start issue started about 100 hours ago, and progressively got worse. So, if you're getting hard starts with white smoke, its a telltale sign that your overheat sensor is going bad and you will eventually have problems keeping it running in warm/hot weather. Happy trails...

Larry, 03 Allure, 30856.
So how many hours on your generator before it began to show signs?
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Old 10-11-2014, 05:28 AM   #6
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About 1000 hours is when I started seeing white smoke upon start that faded out after 15 seconds or so. The colder the ambient temp, the harder it would start. After 1100 hours, it started shuting down because the defective overheat sensor thought the engine was overheating.
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Old 10-11-2014, 07:35 AM   #7
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About 1000 hours is when I started seeing white smoke upon start that faded out after 15 seconds or so. The colder the ambient temp, the harder it would start. After 1100 hours, it started shuting down because the defective overheat sensor thought the engine was overheating.
You did way better than we did. Did not have the smoke or hard starting, it just quit with about 600 hours on it. We had just put a controller in the year before to the tune of $1800.
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:37 AM   #8
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We replaced to temp sensors in two years. Our era Allure has the non slide generator, so access requires extra labor to drop the generator under and out of the front. We replaced the radiator at the second repair cycle too, as it was so clogged that normal cleaning attempts would not clear it out. (Poor/no maintenance by the previous owner on the generator. Records show only two oil changes in the 7 years he had the coach. But he also did not use it much, as it had about 105 hours on a 7 year coach at the time of our purchase.).

So we had new radiator, and changed over to Final Charge coolant at that time.

I was told by Cummins Cal Pacific, that a revised temp sensor is available as a result of the older temp sensor not lasting too long. Good chance the shop I had the first replacement temp sensor did not get the newer temp sensor.

I went ahead and had bought two temp sensors this time. I had one placed in the normal location, and it is the one that is running at this time. I had the second temp sensor "C Clamped" to the return water line manifold. I had an A/B switch installed, to change the signal to the generator brain back and forth between the two temp sensors. This way if the stock temp sensor goes out while the generator is needed (Always the way, last time it failed was in Bishop, CA with 105 outside temps!), I can first check fluids, and use my infrared temp sensor to get some spot temp readings (I have three areas identified, and have written down the temps of a normally running generator as reference.). If all looks good on the fluids and temp readings, I can then direct the temp sensor reading over to the "B" temp sensor on the manifold. This will allow me to continue using the generator until home and able to replace the OEM location temp sensor again. (If needed, hopeful that this will not be needed, or as frequent as it has been so far! The new designed temp sensor may last for years.)

We do yearly maintenance on the generator, and now have two years on this combo since the last major radiator/thermostat/fan belt/water pump replacement. We also do regular exercise of the generator while under load.

Best to all, have fun, be safe,
Smitty
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