Service and lubrication

[dhetrick2]

I am getting ready to dive into servicing my new (to me) coach and would like some input on what service interval's are followed on similar model's. The coach has about 67,000 miles on it. Like I said in a previous post the original owner was very service minded but the previous owner not so much, I just replaced the air filter and it was 10 yrs. old. The coolant was flushed in 2002 at 38,000 miles with I believe Fleetguard complete. The trans was serviced in 2005 at 51,000 miles and I don't think the diff lube has been changed. The hydraulic fluid was changed at some point but not exactly sure when. I also need to lube the chassis (any preferred grease?) and the brakes need to be adjusted, I know they are self adjusting but over the years they just don't adjust enough. The oil and filter will be the easy part and I just need a larger drain pan and am installing a fumoto drain valve to make things easier the next time. Any and all inputs would be appreciated. Thanks Dave Oh I have The ISC 330 cummins engine.

[bneukam]

The 10 yr old air filter is not good. But I think my biggest concern would be the sca levels in your coolant since the ISC is a wet liner engine, and it’s been 30k miles since last service.
I would start by pulling a sample of your coolant. Check the level of your SCA’s. Then sending a sample of your coolant, trans fluid, and oil off to JG lubricant for testing.
Fleetguard ES Complete is a good choice. It’s blueish green in color.
Luckily there hasn’t been a lot miles put on the coach in the last 10 to 12 years.
Once you get the report back from your fluids then you’ll get a better idea of where to start.
Oil change, and all filters, then coolant are probably going to be your first items to take care of.
Brett

[IASM]

Since you have no history on the coach i would start fresh and replace all fluids and filters including the decadent filter.Only use high quality lubricants.With Allison you should have two filters and should require synthetic Transynd fluid. should have two fuel filters and possible air compressor filter.Most chassis grease is fine just dont get carried away. Slack adjuster should be fine but check for 9/16 stroke.Dont over grease the S cam shaft at the backing plate as grease will extend into the drums and contaminate brake shoes. If sure im missing stuff but this is off the top of my head. The last differential service i went with Mobile Delvac 1 -80/140 synthetic to bring temps down a bit and extend service life.
Post individual questions as you work your way through and folks will respond accordingly.

[dhetrick2]

Originally Posted by bneukam

The 10 yr old air filter is not good. But I think my biggest concern would be the sca levels in your coolant since the ISC is a wet liner engine, and it’s been 30k miles since last service.
I would start by pulling a sample of your coolant. Check the level of your SCA’s. Then sending a sample of your coolant, trans fluid, and oil off to JG lubricant for testing.
Fleetguard ES Complete is a good choice. It’s blueish green in color.
Luckily there hasn’t been a lot miles put on the coach in the last 10 to 12 years.
Once you get the report back from your fluids then you’ll get a better idea of where to start.
Oil change, and all filters, then coolant are probably going to be your first items to take care of.
Brett

Thanks for the response. I ordered some test strips and going back through the records it does have Fleetguard compleat in it, according to Fleetguards website it's good for 150,000 miles so I will test it add SCA if needed and change the filter.
Dave

[bneukam]

Dave,
Check the date on the test strips when you get them. I would always test twice to confirm.
I would still send off a sample to have it tested. Especially if your not overly impressed with the P.O. maintenance. Maybe he added water to top off the system? Analysis would be my first step on all fluids. Oil, tranny, coolant. You can call Tom at JG. 877-971-7799.

[dhetrick2]

Originally Posted by IASM

Since you have no history on the coach i would start fresh and replace all fluids and filters including the decadent filter.Only use high quality lubricants.With Allison you should have two filters and should require synthetic Transynd fluid. should have two fuel filters and possible air compressor filter.Most chassis grease is fine just dont get carried away. Slack adjuster should be fine but check for 9/16 stroke.Dont over grease the S cam shaft at the backing plate as grease will extend into the drums and contaminate brake shoes. If sure im missing stuff but this is off the top of my head. The last differential service i went with Mobile Delvac 1 -80/140 synthetic to bring temps down a bit and extend service life.
Post individual questions as you work your way through and folks will respond accordingly.

What and where is the decadent filter? On the slack adjusters do you have someone apply the brakes and measure the travel for the 9/16? Thanks Dave

[dhetrick2]

Originally Posted by bneukam

Dave,
Check the date on the test strips when you get them. I would always test twice to confirm.
I would still send off a sample to have it tested. Especially if your not overly impressed with the P.O. maintenance. Maybe he added water to top off the system? Analysis would be my first step on all fluids. Oil, tranny, coolant. You can call Tom at JG. 877-971-7799.

What would be the best way to get a test sample from the transmission?

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by dhetrick2

What and where is the decadent filter? On the slack adjusters do you have someone apply the brakes and measure the travel for the 9/16? Thanks Dave

You chock the wheels, release the parking brake and then check the rod travel by having someone apply the brakes, making sure thesirpressure is above 90 psi.

You can also just measure the rod lenght difference with the parking brake on and off on the rear wheels.

On the fronts, you can pry the adjuster away from the chamber and measure travel.

If all 4 wheels are evenly between 3/4" and 1 1/4" travel its ok. The self adjusters are working and will keep them there.

If any one is out, you need to get the adjusters checked.

As far as greasing the S cam tubes, you grease until the water and old grease purges out near the slack adjuster.

If you don't, the inner bushing gets no grease and wears out. With a bad bushing, the adjustment gets loose and inaccurate and that ruins the seal, causing grease to leak into the brake shoes side.

If the seals leak grease now, the bushings need replacement.

The decadent filter is in the air dryer. The air dryer is the thing that purges air when the compressor reaches its set pressure. Whoosh.

[grindstone01]

I would just change all the fluids, trans, engine oil, coolant, diff and any filters. Then after 20k miles send in fluid samples to see how everything is performing. Testing old fluids won't tell you much since most are over 10 years old and any additives have since worn out. You could contact Blackstone Labs and get their suggestions for fluid testing and frequency.

[dhetrick2]

Oil and filter changed, greased the chassis which had not been done in a while. I tested the coolant with fleetguard test strips(twice) and the SCA level is in the green so since it has Fleetguard complete I am not going to change the coolant at this point, I did try to change the coolant filter but the shut off valve is plastic and half broken off so it would not turn, not sure that's a big deal. Trans filters and fluid is next, going to go to transyn so I won't have to do that again for a while. Any advice on changing the hydraulic fluid and filters? From what I read the Dynomax chassis has three filter's stacked on top of each other, who has changed these and do you know what the filter numbers are and what fluid to use? Thanks Dave

[funjnt]

Congrats on a nice used CC. We really like our Allure I have to say. If the valve is broken on the water filter housing try to verify if it is fully open. Also you should replace the water filter once a year because the water filters will have a time release of sca additive in them. You can get a plain filter without sca if you run an oat coolant. You can also change the filter without turning the valve off just don't wear a good shirt as you will have coolant running up or down your arms. I did this twice until I noticed the shut off LOL. You will need to add about a gallon of freshie fresh coolant which isn't so bad.

When we bought our coach it didn't have service records, yes we did thorough lookie and hired an inspector. So, the price was quite right and I took the plunge. The first year I changed the oil and filter from when we got home till it went to fla for the winter. I changed the coolant filter and two fuel filters. This is a basic service for me, yearly. Now this last year I changed the trans and fluid and air filter. Air filter was fairly new as they said they serviced the coach when we bought it. I have yet to do the hydraulic system and filters and need to do the air dryer (looks to be a pia). I am not too concerned with the rear yet maybe I will do that with the hydraulic system this summer. But, importantly I would do all chassis related fluids and filters so you have a fresh baseline.

[drw907]

Originally Posted by dhetrick2

What and where is the decadent filter? On the slack adjusters do you have someone apply the brakes and measure the travel for the 9/16? Thanks Dave

Desiccant, not decadent.

[bneukam]

Those shut off valves need to be exercised yearly or else the “O” rings inside will stick and make it hard to turn. There is a handle end that has a screw in it that attaches to the shaft end. Using the shaft end to turn the valve is best.
The fluid that you use to test the SCA’s should be drained from either this valve after the filter is removed, or from the radiator. Not from the reservoir.
On my ISL I had to remove the whole mounting bracket to replace that plastic valve. Sounds like it broke off before the “O” ring or else it would be leaking.
Brett

[twinboat]

When changing the coolant cartridge, just do it with a cold engine. So in it off and spin it on. Don't mess with the valves, your going to need to top off the system anyway.

Once done hose down the spilled coolant.