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Old 10-31-2010, 08:21 PM   #1
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Starting 2008 country coach

After setting a couple of days I turn the switch and nothing happens after about four tries then all the relays kick normal then it starts
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:46 PM   #2
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Are you waiting long enough for the diesel glow plugs to heat up. When I first start up I usually count slowly to 10 after turning the key to turn the glow plug on. Then I turn it over and mine starts up immediately every time.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:54 AM   #3
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As Bob stated probably need to let the glow plugs heat...you shoudl have a "wait to start" on your dash light assembly which needs to go out before you attempt to start. Other causes could include low chassis batteries. If you suspect this then before turnign the ignition key use the battery boost switch to tie in your house batteries.
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Old 12-04-2010, 06:16 PM   #4
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Guys, there are no glow plugs on our coaches. Glow plugs have gone the way of the dodo bird. Now days, diesel engines use a grid heater placed somewhere in the air intake system.

There should be a red light on the dash that says "wait to strar" or something like that. Turn the key on and watch for the light. When it goes out, the engine is ready to start. If the light doesn't come on, you might have a problem elsewhere.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:22 PM   #5
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LOL glow plug - grid heater = same thing - I don't even look for the light. When she is cold I just wait a count of 7-8 before cranking. Starts right up every time. My two Benz diesels had glow plugs, didn't know they went out of fashion. But then I am sitting here writing this note listening to LPs playing Christmas music so I like old stuff.
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:12 AM   #6
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I would also recommend that all battery, fuse, circuit breaker, chassis ground, relay and starter terminals be clean and tight. These connections cannot always be good; even when they look good. If, after you have insured these connections are good, you are allowing the pre-heater to do its job and you still have no response, it would be time to find which relay or solenoid points are getting bad. If the engine turns over but is hard to start the pre-heater may not be performing its job. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:06 PM   #7
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Delay or wait to start???

Our 1989 CC with 300 CAT has no such thing, turn the key engine runs, maybe sometimes you hear the starter motor for less than 1/4 second.

My guess same as wizzard, sounds like an intermittent connection that after multiple tries it connects.

If your owners manual does not state that there is a delay then I doubt there is one, your description of the issue implies there is no reaction at all from the key until you have tried multiple times, and if there was a delay the power would come on but the engine just would not start which is NOT what you described.

The problem here is at some point it will drop dead and not recover.

You need to 'sneak up" on the problem, in other words, get test lights or volt meters, whatevery you have readily available and find places to connect them.

Clip leads help as you can connect without stressing or moving the point.

The goal is to observe the voltage at the point during operating and failing conditions.

It may be that the keyswitch is intermittent, but this is doubtful as the stresses on the switch are low, but there are a handfull of connectors between the switch and the relay(s) that could be at fault or a bad ground buss connection somewhere else.

I would suggest first locating the key switch and via a clip lead connect a meter or light here, make sure that there is no possibility of a short, tape it up if needed.

Next I would check the power distribution center, there could be a loose wire there, find which one comes in from the key and test here.

DO NOT use a jumper to bypass the coach wiring to activate the relays. If it is not working as you do not know why it is not working and you do not want to risk causing more damage via back feeding the wire.

Then find where the dash system connects to the coach, there will be a few large connectors for this, for this measurement you could gently touch the wires (if it is not working) or if attaching for observation some sewing pins can be stabbed into the wires a distance from the connector (use the downstream side away from the last measurement) here be sure to wrap with tape.

"Divide and concur" is the rule, there are many things in the coach, so one could pick an easy to get to spot, or one in the middle, but wherever the measurement is, one can determine which direction to look and continue until they have found the problem.

Many folks "shotgun" the problem, they just clean or replace everything and hope it works, this results in a lot of time and possible expense, and the problem may not be repaired.

"Verifyable Repeatable Repair", what this means is when I think I have found the problem and fixed it, can I undu my repair and have the problem come back.

Here is an example;
You come home and the wife states that light in bathroom is out, you make no measurements and change the bulb and now it works.

Was it the bulb?

You put the old bulb back in and it too works...maybe it was something else.

Either the old one was loose, bad socket, switch...who knows, if you would have tried to screw the bulb in and found it loose you could assume the loose bulb.

Take your time as you will learn how everything works and when you locate and repair the problem you will be better suited to troubleshoot this and other issues that may come up.
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Old 12-06-2010, 11:19 AM   #8
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You should have a wait to start indicator on the instrument panel...this will let you know when the grid heaters have done their "stuff". If you have an analog set of gauges then watch your battery level...while the grid is heating it will drop and then shoudl come up when it is done and you are ready to start. Low reading could indicate a battery ready to die. If that is the case you can use the battery boost to tire in your house batteries to run the grid heater and then start the engine.
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