Thought I had the bedroom slide

[Mr_D]

Thought I had the bedroom slide figured out.
Opened the panel up to adjust the slide pad and found that the adjusting bolt was broken off. Also one under the bed is bent so will have to replace it.
Does anyone know if the two bolts on the bracket are lag bolts into the frame or are there nuts on the backside? Can't get to the backside to check and I don't want to twist away without knowing. Have to remove the bracket to have a new bolt welded on.

[TQ60]

Look like either grade 2 or lags.

Would think it being cc they would use nut and bolt sets or nutserts.

Google the numbers on the heads to see if it reports back a grading or ???

Also if lag the threads will be coarse and corse bolt threads will still be much finer so give one a 1/2 turn and see how much it moves.

[Mr_D]

They are lag bolts, confirmed it a few minutes ago with Premiere RV parts through Damon Rapozo, our salesman. Now I need to order the piece with the broken bolt on it.

[Mr_D]

Ahhh the joys of owning a rig from an out of business manufacturer. Bolt is broken, neither Premier nor Winnebago/CC have the part. Now to find a fabricator that can fix this one locally. Not hard, I just don't have a shop nor welder that can do the job.
CC support says they've seen them bent/broken worse than ours and still be repairable.

[TQ60]

Looks like long threads in the photo.

Contact mid valley distributing in Fresno as they distribute to places like home depot and manufacturers and sell to general public.

We have found many odd things there and they can get just about anything else.

They may have something but you will need to get the whole thing out and photos measurements.

If it is just an attachment bolt then all thread is not needed but just enough to secure it.

Grade 8 will not bend or break easily...

[Mr_D]

I took the whole unit out but haven't taken more pictures of it yet. The piece that's broken is thread stock into a kind of an upside down "U" then welded in. CC says to weld a second piece of flat stock in, drill through both and thread, screw thread stock in and weld. Would be clearer with more/better pictures of the pieces separated. Right now I'm at work till midnight so will have to wait til tomorrow.

[TQ60]

Okay...out to the mental shop we go...

Sounds like CC states to weld steel to the top and thread it after weld.

So this makes nut.

Maybe space is premium or nut could turn not sure.

So...

Get a grade 10 nut lock nut...too early for correct name but they make real thin nuts that are used as second nut in nut to nut locking and grade 10 would be plenty strong.

Grade 10 washers too as they STAY FLAT.
Use FINE THREADS as more strength.

Lock tight to keep it from coming loose.

Grade 8 or 10 bolt correct length to not interfere with whatever is above or use all thread and nut on bottom then cut after finished.

This is no welding solution and may be an easy "for now" or "dufur" (due for now) solution that will solve the problem until you find better solution.

When we see your photos maybe other ideas.

[Mr_D]

Here are three pictures. The broken rod is an all thread rod, threaded and welded into the "U". It' s standard 3/8 X 16 thread.

[Mr_D]

Well, for some reason the third picture won't show so lets try again. The open holes in the picture above hold a nylon pad in place so the rod can't protrude out the top.
This is whit it should look like.

[Mr_D]

This is the bracket that attaches to the frame. The thin plate in the middle is skip welded in on top. Winnebage/CC says to weld it totally and double it up with another plate on the bottom and weld that one solid from the bottom. I guess the bottom plate can twist and this would stop it.

[TQ60]

Here is what I would do.

First drill plate and if I had a tap drill and tap for all thread size.

Locate a grade 10 bolt correct length or or just cheapest all thread "for now in fine thread"

Get a few grade 10 nuts.

Find someone who can weld...Or buy cheapest wire welder at harbor freight if on road and find metal to practice on.

Place nut on all thread then screw all thread into bracket then place nut on both sides of bracket snug against bracket.

Now weld bottom nut. tack on 2 points then remove other hardware and weld all the way arround.

After ir cools chase the threads and paint it

Place it back in service then use all thread to determine bolt length meaning assemble with a nut and then mark the thread with tape or sharpie.

Make sure you ate fully threaded in welded nut.

Now remove all thread and get a grade 8 or 10 bolt same length or next longer if stock too short and add washers.

New bolt will not break and nut in top makes it servicable.

The heat will alter the grade 10 nut but still better than grade 2.

[Mr_D]

Think I'll hit the local bolt supply house tomorrow. I bought a few at Home Depot but they are of questionable quality.

[TQ60]

Home depot ones make good fishing sinkers...

Okay for general use.

[Mr_D]

The thing I worry about is buying something like Grade 8 and them being too brittle to take a side load (or bending moment) for us engineers.