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Old 11-19-2015, 01:04 AM   #29
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I know where the valve is located, I am wondering what or where the other end is connected to.
lol... under the sink, it's in the shape of upside-down U, with the anti-siphon valve on top. one leg is connected to the outside rinse inlet; the other leg goes to the opposite side of the black tank where the sprayer is at. did i miss anything...
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:33 AM   #30
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I know where the valve is located, I am wondering what or where the other end is connected to.
dons2346
The incoming water line from the hose connector is connected to the bottom/inlet of the vacuum breaker.... the water line to the rinser in the black tank is connected to the side/output of the vacuum breaker.



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Old 11-19-2015, 08:38 AM   #31
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mel, good illustrations... on your second graphic, the air going in could only happen when the black tank is being dumped, right? but on the rooftop, there is a vent for black tank already. why is there a need for the vacuum breaking here? it leaves a chance of the bad smell from black tank getting out. doesn't it?
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:13 AM   #32
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mel, good illustrations... on your second graphic, the air going in could only happen when the black tank is being dumped, right? but on the rooftop, there is a vent for black tank already. why is there a need for the vacuum breaking here? it leaves a chance of the bad smell from black tank getting out. doesn't it?
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That vacuum breaker is in the pressurized city water line to the tank rinser.
Air enters the vacuum breaker when the water is turned off allowing the water in the line to the breaker to drain back thereby preventing contaminated water from siphoning back into the city water supply.

A tank roof vent vents the tank and facilitates dumping but has nothing to do with the black tank rinser or the city water supply.

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Old 11-19-2015, 10:42 AM   #33
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mel, i knew how it works and no relations between the vacuum breaker and the roof vent after disconnect the garden hose, there is always some water coming out, just WATER. i believe it's the water retained in the clear tube between the inlet and the vacuum breaker. there will be no further backflow beyond that point, no matter what as the vacuum breaker is at the highest point and the inlet is higher than sprayer. were water backflowing more, the gate would be closed, so it wouldn't be possible. i kinda don't like the air in and out portion of it, tempting to mod it
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Old 11-19-2015, 11:43 AM   #34
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mel, i knew how it works and no relations between the vacuum breaker and the roof vent after disconnect the garden hose, there is always some water coming out, just WATER. i believe it's the water retained in the clear tube between the inlet and the vacuum breaker. there will be no further backflow beyond that point, no matter what as the vacuum breaker is at the highest point and the inlet is higher than sprayer. were water backflowing more, the gate would be closed, so it wouldn't be possible. i kinda don't like the air in and out portion of it, tempting to mod it
CountryFit
The vacuum breaker in the water line to the black tank rinser is there for a reason....my advice is: don't try to fix it if it's not broken.

But it's your coach and your vacuum breaker do what you want.

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Old 11-19-2015, 12:12 PM   #35
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You guys aren't reading what I wrote. Here is what I said in one of my posts.

Well, this is interesting. Looked at the coach this morning and from the tank sprayer there is a direct water line to the female connector in the plumbing bay. With a flashlight and looking at the top of the tank, I can see the line go straight, no turne involved.

I can physically see the water line run directly from the sprayer to the female hose connector on the other side of the coach. This water line lays on top of the tank and is easy to see by sticking my head up to the access panel
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:16 PM   #36
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You guys aren't reading what I wrote. Here is what I said in one of my posts.

Well, this is interesting. Looked at the coach this morning and from the tank sprayer there is a direct water line to the female connector in the plumbing bay. With a flashlight and looking at the top of the tank, I can see the line go straight, no turne involved.

I can physically see the water line run directly from the sprayer to the female hose connector on the other side of the coach. This water line lays on top of the tank and is easy to see by sticking my head up to the access panel
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I don't doubt that one bit..... many coaches have things that are not done correctly. (either accidentally? or deliberately?), by the manufacturer or by the guy doing the work.
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:15 PM   #37
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don, you have used it for 13 years there were no issues with the setup, that tells something. i bet yours is the best because 1) it gets job done; 2) no worry about water leaking out at vacuum breaker into under sink undetected until floor gets wet; 3) no bad smell escaping from the vacuum breaker into inside, you have the cleanest air. good for you

this fall when i was in cc, i asked them how to rinse the gray tank. the foreman on the floor looked at my coach, told me "your coach doesn't have a gray tank rinse. you can install one just like the one on black tank, you do it or go back to the guy who did it on black tank, actually any rv tech can do it".

what he said was clear - it's an after market item. but, cc manual has the schematic! i am confused
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:35 PM   #38
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My sprayer was plastic weld installed, so I removed the pex and plugged the old sprayer to avoid leaks. Then I was able to drill a new hole next to it and installed the following new Valterra Products, Inc. A-70 No Fuss Flush with Check Valve from Amazon and was able to reconnect the old pex to the new sprayer. Had previously replaced the RV anti-siphon so that was not the issue. Also the Valterra flusher has built in anti-siphon. Works great.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:23 PM   #39
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Back on Track Atten. niceguy9605

First off if your black tank flush does not work because the holes in then are plugged you can freeze the water left in that pipe, that can lead to broken fittings, pipes, and elbows. That part was suppose to be just a heads up.


Second I don't have any desire to tear the black flush system apart and drill new holes in the end of it. I thank niceguy9605 sounds like a good system. I'm sure I'm missing something here but I don't know what it is. However I have a couple of questions Step 1) What size diameter and type of hose are you talking about here Step 3) Do you shove this section of hose down the opening for the black water flush system and how will running water through this hose help, the system is plugged and the water will just stay in there. Step 4) how do you run water and fill the hose with CLR at the same time and connect it to the the black water flush inlet.
Steps 2 and 5 I understand

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We just got back from a Fleetwood Discovery National Rally as a vendor and we unplug internal sewage flusher systems all the time using the "CLR Trick". I will go over this process again for those who are having problems with a clogged sprayer head in the black or gray tanks. This process will allow you to unclog the head without taking anything apart.

Step 1: Get a 10ft section of hose (green or brown)
Step 2: Buy a bottle of CLR at Lowes or Home Depot.
Step 3: Go to your shore water and turn the water on just a little bit because you want to be able to move the CLR thru the 10 ft section of hose very slowly. Now mark that spot so you can go back to that spot when needed.
Step 4: Connect the hose to the water source and pour the bottle of CLR into the other end of the hose then connect the hose to the Sewage Flusher System. You are now ready to turn the water on again at that pre-marked area and push the CLR SLOWLY thru the system and reopen the sprayer holes at the end. This process will take about 30 mins as the sludge and calcium are removed.
Step 5: Just use your black tank as usual and then dump at FULL.

Happy Camping
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Old 11-22-2015, 01:38 PM   #40
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So looks as if on mine the PO had removed the valve on my setup. But even without it I was still not getting any water spraying in the black tank when hooked up.

So I first took this fitting apart where the valve should have been, and blew air in with a compressor, and sure enough had good flow to this point.

So I took the garden hose filled with CLR approach, but I used the air compressor to push it through instead of water. After several cycles it seems to be working really well. At 40 psi it took almost 15 min to empty the hose. On my last cycle it emptied the hose in seconds. I will start doing this on regular cycles to keep that sprayer open.


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Old 11-22-2015, 05:06 PM   #41
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Well, this is interesting. ...

So, this brings up a question as to where does the breaker under the sink go? I know the sprayer hookup came from the factory as I am the original owner and we picked it up at the factory with only 79 miles on the coach.
Don,

Is it possible that they hooked the breaker under the sink to the "outdoor shower" fixture like the one in the left end of the following image?



My black tank sprayer is at the right end of the image.

FWIW
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Old 11-22-2015, 05:09 PM   #42
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Attachment 112579

So I took the garden hose filled with CLR approach, but I used the air compressor to push it through instead of water. After several cycles it seems to be working really well. At 40 psi it took almost 15 min to empty the hose. On my last cycle it emptied the hose in seconds. I will start doing this on regular cycles to keep that sprayer open.
Good job!

Glad it worked out. If you use the sprayer regularly when dumping the black tank, the sprayer is not likely to clog up. At least that has been the case in my three coaches.

FWIW
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