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Old 06-02-2016, 05:31 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by dons2346 View Post
His is a '00 and it will have either a Hurricane or the conventional propane heater.

When my Hurricane supply hose was replaced, a hole was cut through the bulkhead in the bay directly behind the tank for access.
hi don, am back on us soil now, thinking to square off those small things
yeah, i remember i read posts here and other websites that some cut a hole on the floor (flipping up the carpet), some on bulkhead in the bay... now i know you did it too!! oh well, search no more, can't go wrong following your footsteps...
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:06 PM   #16
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hi don, am back on us soil now, thinking to square off those small things
yeah, i remember i read posts here and other websites that some cut a hole on the floor (flipping up the carpet), some on bulkhead in the bay... now i know you did it too!! oh well, search no more, can't go wrong following your footsteps...
No,no! Do not cut a hole in the floor. My hole is on the vertical bulkhead just to the rear of the tank. IIRC, it about 6" round and when all was done, an access plate was screwed over the hole. It was covered with the same grey fuzzy material so it looks like it belongs
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:11 PM   #17
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I talked to CC today. they want 250.00? This is getting worse.
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:07 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by dons2346 View Post
No,no! Do not cut a hole in the floor. My hole is on the vertical bulkhead just to the rear of the tank. IIRC, it about 6" round and when all was done, an access plate was screwed over the hole. It was covered with the same grey fuzzy material so it looks like it belongs
got it. i will cut a hole in the wall as you described. thanks a million!!
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Old 06-10-2016, 08:15 PM   #19
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Update

After trying to find a replacement only to come up short, I decided to try a universal sending unit.

I bought a Isspro R8926 for 35.00. This sending unit has a 0-90 ohm range. The problem is that it has a long bracket under the base plate and I have limited clearance to install it. This unit does have some adjustments. Left or right doesn't matter, you can loosen the top base plate and spin it anyway you need so that the holes line up and the float arm will work properly.

I adjusted the rheostat to the top, cut off the excess bracket and installed the float. I modified the float wire to accommodate my 20" deep fuel tank. I had enough clearance and everything seems to work perfectly. I guess I will give thanks to CC who wanted to charge me 250.00 for a replacement since it forced me to think outside the box and look into other options.
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:31 PM   #20
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More Info needed

I really like your solution. I have a couple more questions:
Were you able to use the original Country Coach Fuel Gauge on the dash?
Did you have to change up the wiring at all?
How did you hook up the Country Coach wires by color to the new Isspro sending unit?
How did you determine how to bend your float to the depth of the tank?
Thanks again for any info you can provide.
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Old 06-10-2016, 11:02 PM   #21
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I really like your solution. I have a couple more questions:
Were you able to use the original Country Coach Fuel Gauge on the dash?
Did you have to change up the wiring at all?
How did you hook up the Country Coach wires by color to the new Isspro sending unit?
How did you determine how to bend your float to the depth of the tank?
Thanks again for any info you can provide.
I was able to use the original gauge since it was a 0-90 ohm sending unit.
There are only two wires, red which goes in the center to the rheostat and green which goes to the body of the sending unit.
I duplicated the bend on my old sending unit, hooked the wires up and checked the gauge with the assistance of another person.
If you have any questions, PM me your number and we can chat. I can tell you on my coach it is a very, very tight squeeze to get the screws out, but its doable, I figured the pain was worth the reward
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