Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Country Coach Owners Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-15-2018, 12:03 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 38
Wax valve/fan controller

After reading everything on the forum about the wax valve conversion and talking to Source Eng. I am still confused about a few issues. My wife and I fulltime in a 2001 CC Affinity (6004) with a C12 Cat. We are currently work camping in Albuquerque and are planning to go to our next assignment in Virginia Beach in 4 weeks. In anticipation of this trip I have a few questions re the wax valve conversion...1) how does one know if the Danforth Sauer controller has failed? About the conversion..I have a bung fitting just below the top radiator hose that is very assessable and was told by Source Eng. that this was the perfect place to locate the wax valve? This does away with the need to weld any brackets? The current controller has two hydraulic lines connected to it...is this where the new hydraulic lines, included in the Source Eng. kit, connect to? Iím trying to see if this is a diys project... I know there are lots of folks on the forum that have been through this conversion and I would appreciate any advice. Last but not least, are there any less expensive options out there as the Source Eng. kit is pretty expensive. Thanks, Jim Barone
__________________

James Barone is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 02-15-2018, 04:49 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Smitty77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Over the next hill, around the next curve...
Posts: 3,534
With a cold engine, stand back by the side radiator and have someone start the coach with no OTR AC on. The fan should barely turn. If it is blowing hard, good indication the FCU has gone South. If you're not sure if it's blowing hard/high or not. Then stop the engine, and remove the FCU fan's fuse from below the driver seats fuse box. Restart, and this should default the fan to hard/high speed so you can compare. Or, a call to the company and they can walk you thru how to test it too.

No experience on the CAT install, so sorry no input!

Kevin Waite, had had a Wax Valve Kit available for awhile. You might check with him.

For what it's worth, I'm pleased with the performance of the SE Wax Valve on our ISL. Price wise, it was a bit more then one new FCU replacement. And many that have coaches with these FCU's - were on their third replacement unit. So, this is why I looked at it as both cost effective, as well as KISS tech.

Opinions will vary on this. And no question the FCU, especially some rigs, is much more sophisticated at controlling fan speeds then the Wax Valve. My OTR AC is pretty straight forward on/off in one Driver's only zone, and a single compressor - so I felt the 'sophistication' of the FCU was not required. Your rig is perhaps a tad bit more technically challenging then my 04 Allure!

Best to you,
Smitty
__________________

__________________
Roo II is our 04 Country Coach Allure 40'
OnDRoad for The JRNY! Enjoy life...
Smitty77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2018, 06:20 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
John Jones's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 462
I bought mine directly from Source. (Cheapest place to buy) I also had a bung on my radiator, I drained about 4 gallons of antifreeze, unscrewed the plug in the radiator, installed the wax valve. I unhooked the two hoses from the sauer-danfoss unit and screwed them into my wax valve. Zip ties the hoses in place, refilled the antifreeze and I was done.

This is an easy project and you can certainly do it yourself.

Call Jim at Source and talk to him.
John Jones is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2018, 07:50 PM   #4
TR4
Senior Member
 
TR4's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, California
Posts: 368
Hereís a good thread on the wax valve;
Side Radiator wax valve replacement

Hereís some more reading on how the thermo valve works;
https://www.centralstatesbus.com/200...s/a3hydfan.pdf

Iím going to put together a DIY wax valve conversion thread when I get all the parts I need. The electronic controller uses coolant temperature, air intake temperature and a/c head pressure to regulate fan speed. The wax valve only uses coolant temperature to regulate fan speed. Iíve moved my a/c condenser up to the front along with the Dyer. I then installed electric fans on the condenser. I did this in anticipation of installing the wax thermo valve. Ive always wondered how to do this, and then found a thread by Old Scout who had done this on his Alpine coach. On the Source kit, they use a restrictor to have the fan run at a minimum speed to address the a/c issue.

Bill
__________________
'03 Country Coach Intrigue 36'
Cummins ISL 400
TR4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2018, 12:08 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Minden nevada
Posts: 251
I have a question. Heading home from Arizona had the sensor wire at the thermostat unplugged because the fan didn't run coming down. On the trip home the temperature was around 180 to 190 and the dash a/c was on for 6 hours. OSA temp dropped to 60 so turned air off and the engine temp increased to 200 to 220 with slight incline for the next 3 hours stopped in lone pine ca and checked the fan and it was running at idle. Continued to bishop for the night as it was late. I needed to climb 4 mountain passes on ca 395 the next am at 8,000 ft each . I unplugged the main power to the danfos module hoping it would help lower the temp and ran the engine at 2200 rpm hoping to make it. It ran up the 6-7 degree passes under 190 ? Why does this sound like a bad danfos module ? I can’t believe it ran hotter on almost level ground that was 60 degrees rather then 40 degrees. Could the danfos be failing and not allowing the fan to reach max rpm? I could only get the fan to run by pulling the sensor wire or removing power to the module. Will a wax valve kit solve my problem or ? Is it possible the fan didn’t go to full rpm with just the sensor wire unplugged?
__________________
2002 country coach allure 32 foot dual slide 350 cummins ISC
Roy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2018, 01:13 AM   #6
Senior Member
 
2 Stroker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Warren, Oregon
Posts: 1,955
When I first got my coach, I could hear my fan coming on and could see it in my Silverleaf. But over time my coolant temp would get 210 before it would come on plus I could not hear it, so I had the wax valve installed at Source. Now it comes on at 205 and off 175 and I can hear it, the down side I use more fuel.
2 stroker
__________________
2006 Country Coach Inspire 360 40ft Genoa Designer Series, Samsung 197 RR
Cat C9--STEEL & COPPER Bolt Together Radiator w/ updated rubber mounting
SilverLeaf 330 Magnum 2812 PSW 2011 Ford Edge Sport-Air Force One
2 Stroker is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2018, 08:57 AM   #7
TR4
Senior Member
 
TR4's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: San Francisco Bay Area, California
Posts: 368
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy1 View Post
I have a question. Heading home from Arizona had the sensor wire at the thermostat unplugged because the fan didn't run coming down. On the trip home the temperature was around 180 to 190 and the dash a/c was on for 6 hours. OSA temp dropped to 60 so turned air off and the engine temp increased to 200 to 220 with slight incline for the next 3 hours stopped in lone pine ca and checked the fan and it was running at idle. Continued to bishop for the night as it was late. I needed to climb 4 mountain passes on ca 395 the next am at 8,000 ft each . I unplugged the main power to the danfos module hoping it would help lower the temp and ran the engine at 2200 rpm hoping to make it. It ran up the 6-7 degree passes under 190 ? Why does this sound like a bad danfos module ? I canít believe it ran hotter on almost level ground that was 60 degrees rather then 40 degrees. Could the danfos be failing and not allowing the fan to reach max rpm? I could only get the fan to run by pulling the sensor wire or removing power to the module. Will a wax valve kit solve my problem or ? Is it possible the fan didnít go to full rpm with just the sensor wire unplugged?
Roy1,
Sounds like either the fan controller, coolant temperature sensor or bad wiring. When you unplugged the controller, the fan went to high, keeping your temperature down. The downside is more fuel consumption. A lot of members here have done the wax thermo valve conversion.

Bill
__________________
'03 Country Coach Intrigue 36'
Cummins ISL 400
TR4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2018, 10:34 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Smitty77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Over the next hill, around the next curve...
Posts: 3,534
Just a follow up comment. When sharing temperature info, keep in mind that the specific engine, heck even sometimes down to smog control generation, can make a difference on temperatures.

For example, the CAT C9 usually runs a bit warmer then the Cummins ISL - and these are both sometimes found in the same coach. Like the Allure.

So when reading about temperatures that are being shared, drill down to the specifics of the engine and even smog generation of engine, when comparing to your engines temperatures.

This is probably a 'Well of course post!' - but in case that is not obvious to some, just wanted to share this!

Best to all,
Smitty
__________________
Roo II is our 04 Country Coach Allure 40'
OnDRoad for The JRNY! Enjoy life...
Smitty77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2018, 10:28 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 38
First of all thanks to everyone who chimed in on my original question. Yesterday I installed the wax valve kit from Source Eng. I was fortunate because i had bund in the radiator right below the top hose. Difficult to get the plug out... had to use a heat gun. The valve then just screwed into the radiator but I had to shorten an 11/2 open end to tighten the valve. The hydraulic lines installed easily and I started it up to check for leaks and valve function. Upon a cold start the fan turned but slowly. As the engine warmed the fan speed increased. I discussed these results with Scott, Source Eng. owner and he thought everything seemed to be correct. Again, thank you for all of your help. Jim Barone work camping in Albuquerque & leaving for Virginia Beach in 4 weeks... 2001 CC Affinity (6004) C12 Cat.
James Barone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2018, 06:50 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Minden nevada
Posts: 251
In case anyone is interested I put my follow up on the class a Motorhome forum by mistake under wax valve followup sorry.
__________________
2002 country coach allure 32 foot dual slide 350 cummins ISC
Roy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2018, 08:30 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
BrianGlenn's Avatar
 
Country Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Alberta
Posts: 1,007
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy1 View Post
In case anyone is interested I put my follow up on the class a Motorhome forum by mistake under wax valve followup sorry.
Link to your thread for others to read.....

Wax Valve Update

Brian
__________________

__________________
Towr: 2007 Country Coach Allure 470 - 37 Sunset Bay Cummins 400 ISL
Toad: 2016 F150 King Ranch - 3.5L EcoBoost 4x4 Supercrew (curb weight 4,775 lbs)
Toad: SOLD 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee (yes, it has a Hemi) (curb weight 4,720 lbs)
BrianGlenn is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fan, valve



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ordered the Wax fan controller from source engineering any advice? John Jones Country Coach Owners Forum 9 11-05-2016 08:22 PM
Wax fan controller from source engineering, installation ideas John Jones Class A Motorhome Discussions 5 10-30-2016 09:03 AM
Hydraulic wax valve fan Jeff753 Cummins Engines 4 07-22-2016 02:15 PM
Wax, or not to wax.... R1Kirby iRV2.com General Discussion 2 02-29-2012 07:30 AM
Wax on! Wax off! no18yes MH-General Discussions & Problems 4 06-17-2006 08:33 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.