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Old 01-15-2016, 11:56 PM   #1
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Where is dash a/c drier?

while preparing the rig for hitting the road in early spring, i tried to fix the dash a/c (over-the-road a/c) which stopped cooling last year. looked around under the nose, i did notice the leaking expansion valve. i'm going to replace it in next few days. while the system is opened up, i would like to replace the accumulator-drier as well. but strange, i didn't see it. no information available in coach manual either.

does anyone know where it is? tia.
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Old 01-16-2016, 09:56 AM   #2
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The accumulator/drier is usually located in the engine bay. You should spot it easily.
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Old 01-16-2016, 10:02 AM   #3
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It will be on high pressure side the small hose and sometime right at the condenser.
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Old 01-16-2016, 11:45 AM   #4
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The AC dryer is the vertical cylinder thingy with the grey wiring zip tied to it. It is almost dead center in the pix
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Old 01-16-2016, 11:53 AM   #5
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The AC dryer is the vertical cylinder thingy with the grey wiring zip tied to it. It is almost dead center in the pix
no wonder, i was following the high pressure hose to the condenser but saw nothing... i do see it now, right in front of me. looks like i have to figure out what make/model it is, apparently not a standard car ac drier. big thanks, don!!

thanks also go to everyone else who responded
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Old 01-16-2016, 12:13 PM   #6
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Go to an automotive AC shop and they can fix you up. Remember that if you break the system open, you need evacuate it before refilling with freon. Best to let a shop do it because they can capture all the old freon, evacuate the system and refill. Not a back yard job unless you have the right tools.
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Old 01-16-2016, 01:09 PM   #7
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Go to an automotive AC shop and they can fix you up. Remember that if you break the system open, you need evacuate it before refilling with freon. Best to let a shop do it because they can capture all the old freon, evacuate the system and refill. Not a back yard job unless you have the right tools.
got it. i will have them do it. somethings i can do, some better leave to pros
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Old 01-17-2016, 09:45 AM   #8
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Have them check compressor for seal leaks since you will be clearing out the system it may also need attention.

Be sure you use a well respected shop.
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Old 01-17-2016, 10:55 AM   #9
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Have them check compressor for seal leaks since you will be clearing out the system it may also need attention.

Be sure you use a well respected shop.
yup, will do
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Old 01-17-2016, 12:33 PM   #10
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Just a thought for the hard line DIYers who have an interest in AC. Several years ago my Dodge Cummins TC had an AC compressor that was leaking. It used R12 refrigerant which should not be released into the atmosphere. I had a shop evacuate the R12, and was told it would cost around $200.00 to charge the system with R134a when I was ready. After replacing the compressor, receiver drier, and evaporator, I learned that I could buy a set of gauges and evacuation pump from HF for around $150.00-$200.00 and then evacuate and charge the system myself. That is what I did, now I'm waiting for the rain to stop long enough to charge the AC system on our Flair with my "free" tools after replacing the compressor and receiver drier in order to convert it to R134a. The charge for evacuating R12 from the Dodge was $20.00 and there was no charge for the Flair (different shops).

The receiver drier has a desiccant in it that will absorb moisture from the atmosphere if left open reducing or eliminating it's effectiveness to absorb moisture in the AC system. It also serves as a filter.

Just my 2c.

Steve
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Old 01-17-2016, 02:51 PM   #11
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Just a thought for the hard line DIYers who have an interest in AC. Several years ago my Dodge Cummins TC had an AC compressor that was leaking. It used R12 refrigerant which should not be released into the atmosphere. I had a shop evacuate the R12, and was told it would cost around $200.00 to charge the system with R134a when I was ready. After replacing the compressor, receiver drier, and evaporator, I learned that I could buy a set of gauges and evacuation pump from HF for around $150.00-$200.00 and then evacuate and charge the system myself. That is what I did, now I'm waiting for the rain to stop long enough to charge the AC system on our Flair with my "free" tools after replacing the compressor and receiver drier in order to convert it to R134a. The charge for evacuating R12 from the Dodge was $20.00 and there was no charge for the Flair (different shops).

The receiver drier has a desiccant in it that will absorb moisture from the atmosphere if left open reducing or eliminating it's effectiveness to absorb moisture in the AC system. It also serves as a filter.

Just my 2c.

Steve
the thing i am not sure is the amount of oil. when a/c system was leaking, some oil has been out along with leaked freon. i am not sure how much oil i need to put back in. also, there are peg oil as well ester oil, which one to use? rgds.
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Old 01-17-2016, 06:26 PM   #12
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the thing i am not sure is the amount of oil. when a/c system was leaking, some oil has been out along with leaked freon. i am not sure how much oil i need to put back in. also, there are peg oil as well ester oil, which one to use? rgds.
I have done mine DIY because no local Auto AC "Tech" would tackle the electrical issue I had. The Compressor Clutch had failed at 18 years of age.

I had read that others have had similar repairs for almost $2,000 in Oregon because the "replacement compressor was not made any more"

I had no clue when I began by buying the gauges and pump from Harbor Freight for about $80 during a sale. (I now know that Auto Zone will lend you the gauges and pump for no cost. )

The amount and kind of oil is posted on a label on the Coolant Surge Tank on my rig.

My new $250 compressor had a label to specify its oil requirements.

The $25 dryer waits at Napa for you. (My rig has two of them.)

When you evacuate the system with pump, because you opened it to replace the dryer, you pull virtually all the old oil out.

I can fill my system for about $70. An Auto AC shop wanted $200 for the same amount of 134A.

Just remember that the system even if it appears empty from your leak, still may have a good amount of pressure at the first opening of the system.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:05 PM   #13
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thanks dean, that is very encouraging. i actually have a vacuum pump and the hookups bought from hf a few years ago for my car a/c fixes (have some limited knowledge on it). i called an a/c shop which would work on rv, quoted me labor $150, freon $22/lb (well, i have a box of 12 canned freon for $6/lb :-). the total could be about $350

the good thing to know is i can get the drier from napa, awesome

i will look at the info on the overflow tank tomorrow, in the worst scenario i can call cc to get the info for $25, not bad.
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:29 PM   #14
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If it was R12 and changing to R134 check hoses for part numbers that could confirm if the existing hoses have liners so they are compatible with the new stuff.

The non - lines hose will allow R134 to seep through so good to check and possibly update those while you are at it.
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