500 Cummins coolant capacity

[roaming]

Dumb question here - anyone know the coolant capacity on the Cummins 500?

I've gone through the Cummins manual, the Spartan manual, and the other assorted manuals that I got with the coach, and I can't for the life of me find something as simple as coolant capacity :(

Thanks
Jim

[4x4crazy]

Alot. Just had mine changed but I don't remember how much. I will check it out for you when I get to my office next week. Hopefully someone will come up with it before that time.

[lonestarace]

The Monaco owners manuals for the 4 RoadMaster Cummins M11 and/or ISM coaches we have owned have indicated the initial fill is 50-55 qts. The most I've ever been able to drain out is 38 qts. The rest remains trapped in the engine, etc.
The Cummins operation and maintenance manual states that the "engine only" holds 10 qts.
We hope this helps?
Don

[roaming]

Very much so - thank you sir! I saw the 10 quarts in the ISM engine manual, but it's the rest of the system I was concerned with. I wanted to make sure we're carrying enough distilled water and coolant in case we have any issues going down the road.
Thanks!
Jim

[justaroamer]

This is dertimined not only by engine, but the radiator that was used.
I can tell you that on a total drain, from radiator drain, my '06 with 400 ISL took just over 8 gal. I did not drain the block itself. I used extended life Shell Rotella, the same that it came with. I used premix, as you will get a distilled/purified water, better than tap water and less contaminates that can cause corrosion. If mixing your own, use distilled water as you already stated. Your 500 system is no doubt a bit more capacity, I would guess 10-12 gal. should do you.

[Mr_D]

Our ISC is 12 gallons, but I can only drain about 8 out. Each manufacturer makes their decision on capacity based on the engine manufacturers specs. I had to call Spartan to get my total.

[Cruzer]

You'll need to get the specs for the Spartan K2 chassis with 500 HP ISM. There's too many variables with other chassis to get an accurate answer. I'm sure a call to Spartan would get you that info right away. However, if all you're looking for is an approximate figure in case you need to repair a leak when traveling these numbers will give you a rough idea.

[roaming]

Thanks Mark. I think the approximate numbers will work for my 'emergency stash', I picked up 4 gallons of Prestone coolant ($15 back on each 2 gallons purchased right now) and 4 gallons of distilled water as a CYA.

[Cruzer]

Is the Prestone rated for diesels with wet cylinder liners? If not, you can risk cavitation and liner pitting. For more details take a look at RVcruzer.com - Coolants for HD Diesel Engines in RVs

[roaming]

Woah! I had no idea, I used the prestone in the diesel in my Excursion and assumed all things were created equal. The Prestone is headed back and I'll pick up the Cummins OAT coolant. One of the many reasons I loves the interwebz!

[justaroamer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by roaming Woah! I had no idea, I used the prestone in the diesel in my Excursion and assumed all things were created equal. The Prestone is headed back and I'll pick up the Cummins OAT coolant. One of the many reasons I loves the interwebz!

I should have been more explict in my previous post. My other coach I refered to an '06 came with extended life coolant. FYI, do not mix ELC coolants (like Spartan uses) with regular antifreezes. Mine was labeled on the resevoir tank "do not mix". Just because an antifreeze is labeled for diesel use, it may not be compatable with ELC antifreezes. Be sure what you have before adding. Otherwise, do a total drain and start over so you know what you have.

[drwyatt]

I had my Cumins ISM 500 serviced in Dec 2011 and the coolant drained and flushed by Cummins in Avondale, Az. They used 13 gal and replaced the filter. The coolant was normal ethyl/glycol anti freeze but you must put on an new filter WF2071 as it has a chemical strip that is needed in the anti freeze in a Cummins engine. They have a test strip kit that you can buy to test the anti freeze, but the filter is cheaper than the test strip kit. They recomment a filter change every couple of years or sooner if a lot of miles are put on. Dave W

[Mr_D]

Here's a good write up on how to change the coolant by Brett Wolf for the CAT club:

Quote:

I just changed out my coolant to Caterpillar ELC and replaced all water hoses and belts. Thought I would share the experience. To my knowledge no chassis/coach maker is using ELC—so all are “low silicate coolant for diesels” with included or added SCA. Coolant needs to be changed per manufacturer’s instructions (usually every 3 years). Additionally the SCA, pH and freeze point need to be checked on regular intervals using SCA test strips and SCA added as needed. The test strips are inexpensive and easy to use (we check the SCA concentration in all coaches at Cat RV Club Rallies). When either the time lapses (time starts when coolant installed in cooling system, NOT when purchased) or testing reveals an out-of-line conditions like pH or freeze point, it is time to change it. You can avoid all the testing and SCA adding, and go to 6 year change intervals by going to Caterpillar ELC and get better cooling system protection as well. Whichever coolant you choose, most of the steps are the same. The job is reasonably time consuming TO DO RIGHT, but low-tech. Turn dash heater to full hot for the rest of the procedure—fan off. With the engine cold or at least cool, drain coolant. On some, there is a drain cock. On others, pull the lower radiator hose. I catch it in 2 Rubbermade 10 gallon storage bin lined with black trash sacks so I do not even get them dirty. At the end of the whole process, use a coffee can and funnel to pour old coolant into new coolant/water containers for recycling. Our city maintenance shop recycles coolant for free. Refill cooling system with tap water. IMPORTANT: Be sure to remove any air lock from the thermostat housing. Some systems have a hose set up for this—on ours I just loosen the coolant line to the air pump and bleed the air out. Allow engine to warm up (using the cruise control to select idle speed of 1,000-1,100 speeds this up). Run for about 10 minutes at regular temp. If the temp gauge does not rise as normal, you likely have an air block and need to bleed the thermostat housing. Allow engine to cool 20-30 minutes and drain again. Repeat until the color is clear. At this point, if this is the first coolant change on a 2-3 year old coach and you are not changing coolant brands/types, skip right to “Last rinse”. For older systems or for switching types of coolant, add a Cooling System Cleaner such as Cat Fast Acting Cooling System Cleaner 4C4611. Follow directions. Run, allow engine to cool, drain and again flush until effluent is clear. The flushing is markedly sped up by pulling off the heater hose (usually 5/8 to ¾” lines going to dash heater/motor-aid water heater, etc from the water pump. Put a hose nozzle in the hose and let it run until what comes out is clear. Run the engine to temperature at least once with tap water. If your hoses are over 3-4 years old, this is a good time to change them as well (before last rinse). Same for thermostat(s). Last Rinse is with distilled water. At $.62/gal at Walmart, it is silly to skip this step and leave your system full of high-mineral content water (there will be several gallons of residual water that you can not easily remove). Run engine for 10 minutes after getting to operating temperature. Cool and drain. Also drain and flush your coolant overflow container and refill with new coolant/distilled water. Add the proper amount of Coolant CONCENTRATE (NOT PRE-DILUTE) to make 50% of cooling system capacity. My cooling system is 18 gallons, so I added 9 gallons of Caterpillar ELC CONCENTRATE (119-5150) (plus one for overflow container). Top off with distilled water to achieve your 50/50 mixture. This is also a good time to clean the OUTSIDE of the radiator/after-cooler whether you have rear or side radiator. On rear radiator, most if the debris will be on the FRONT of the after-cooler (accessed from under the bed). On side radiators, most debris is on the outside of the after-cooler (side of coach). If it is just dirt, a hose and regular nozzle is all you need. If greasy or oily, use Joy liquid (dish washing detergent) in a spray bottle. Be SURE to rinse it off completely. You need to insure that the perimeter is as clean as the center. Ya, I know it is easier to see the center, but the fan blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter. Check belts while you are in there.

Also, you want to be careful of what coolant you use in the Cummins engines, some coolants contain an acid (sodium 2-ethyl hexonate) that attacks the hoses and some seals made with silicone. Cummins found out about it after analyzing some engine failures.

Approve coolants for Cummins engines are:

Fleet Charge by Old World
Detroit Diesel Power Cool
Fleetguard Fleetcool
Fleetguard ES Compleat EG
Fleetguard Fleetcool EX
Shell Diesel Ready

[SpursMVP]

Are these coolants also good to use in an ISC 330?