Community Forums

slabman · 12-24-2011, 08:33 AM

Too? That's the very chassis all this talk is based upon. Yes, you will want to ensure your new chassis has been braced.

roaming · 12-24-2011, 08:50 AM

I just looked at Bishop's site this last week, and their final fix is to install a large metal brace around the windshield. This involves removing the front cap completely off of the MH, very time and labor intensive, with the corresponding cost - $10,500 with the seamless cap and X-bracing not already done.
Travel Supreme Motor Homes, Fifth Wheel RVs | Elkhart, IN

The Driver · 12-24-2011, 08:57 AM

Yes, if you've had all the x-bracing and you're still experiencing windshield problems. Don't do the hoop first.

slabman · 12-24-2011, 01:27 PM

I can replace a lot of windshields for ten grand.

Ann n Gene · 12-24-2011, 09:48 PM

Good downpayment on that new Cornerstone Bob, and they are now 2013s to boot. lol I agree, the X bracing alone appears to have fixed my Alante. I would not spend that kind of money unless I was SURE that I still had an ongoing problem that was going to cause a lot of trouble. all just my opinion.

Buddy Jones · 01-05-2012, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvrvtemecula

hello this is Joseph from temecula Valley RV we have done two X-Bracing here and they have turned out great, any question please call me at 951-894-2347

I have a 2003 TS select 45' and the windshield needs resetting now. I would appreciate some info and pic's concerning the cross bracing. Thanks, any help you can be will helpful. Buddy

drwyatt · 02-21-2012, 10:31 PM

I have a 2006 TS select 45 and the left windshield poped when going home after I purchased it. When it was reset the person doing the job had 30 years in RV repairs. He said the problem is that the MFG and others use an adheavsant on the side that is not strong enough. He reset my windshield and it is still in place 2 1/2 years later. The windshields floats in the frame except for the sides which anchor it in place.I think the cross bracing is over kill and very costly in comparison to using a better adheasive in holding the windshields in place. I have read in sevaeal blogs where the cross bracing did not fix the windshield problem. In my case a better glue did at a very low cost. I am very satisfied with the ride I get the way it is. Dave W

Ann n Gene · 02-21-2012, 10:44 PM

Dave, the truth is the manufacture uses NO adhesive of any kind in the windshield. They are designed so that the rubber and the shape of the windshield transfers pressure toward the side of the coach and the center where the two pieces meet. They are designed to stay in place with no adhesive what so ever. The problem comes in when the coach and the front cap flex more than the design limit thereby pushing the glass outward and thus the pop out. In MOST cases, if the X bracing was done properly the result is a permanent fix. All that being said, I can certainly see where a strong adhesive would tend to hold the glass in place and help prevent it from popping out. As long as you do not have to replace the glass the glue fix is great and much cheaper. Cleanning that glue off the rubber and the fiberglass to replace a windshield that got broken by a passing truck throwing up a rock etc could be problematical in many places that might not have access to the particular rubber used on your coach. Seems it is working great for you and that is all that counts. just my experience and opinion.

drwyatt · 02-22-2012, 01:47 AM

Well I guess that you can spend thousands of dollars on cross bracing or a few dollars on on sealant to hold the rubber seal to the front panel. The actual windshield is not sealed to the rubber, only the rubber to the frame. The window still can float in the seal. I have worked with mechanical devices and electronic devices all my life directly with manufactures and believe me they do not always know what they are doing. More often than not some some field technician comes up with a better fix or design to solve the problem. Many blogs state that the cross bracing does not always solve the problem, But it always cost lots of money. I have always felt the KISS method is often the best, 'Keep It Simple Stupid.' Sealant is simple and if it does not work it can be removed, but in the installers experience it has always worked as he has not got returns for re-work. Dave W

roaming · 02-22-2012, 04:57 AM

I just did the cross bracing in my '02 for under $400 with labor and materials, and the local glass company here who did the windshield reseat ($500 in labor and gasket) also used the heavy adhesive so we'll see how it goes. I was pretty amazed that the glass company was very well versed with Travel Supreme and told me right up front that they wouldn't warranty the windshield due to the propensity to pop.

I'm working on a writeup on doing the X-bracing yourself or with a local welder for our blog, I'll link to it here once I get it completed.

usat2007 · 07-30-2012, 04:34 PM

Recently hit a curb with the rear wheel and the twisting caused the windshield to pop out and the gasket to pull away from the fiberglass. Had cross bracing done by Bishop 5 years ago and have only had one minor incident with glass since then which was easily fixed. Glass repair shop wants to remove both pieces of glass, replace gasket and then place adhesive on the glass to have it adhere better to the gasket. They stated that many glass shops are doing this to prevent problems with the Travel Supremes.
I'm afraid that this fix may cause problems. I believe that the glass is supposed to have some give within the gasket and if anything should happen in the future the only way to fix it will be to remove the glass and replace the gasket again. Unfortunately hitting the curb was an extreme situation and I don't want to create a bigger mess.
Looking for feedback from anyone who may have had this problem in the past.

Thanks.

slabman · 07-30-2012, 05:21 PM

Boy, would I love to have access to your glass shop!

Today I had a second opinion on the replacement job I had done up in the Black Hills. The gasket now doesn't fit properly, due to the center post shifting perhaps 1/4 in. to one side. This makes the new piece overhang the outside wall of my coach and will cause undue stress on the new glass when I go over uneven terrain. while this guy today didn't like the look of the new windshield, he was reluctant to attempt any more adjustment. Typical.....

So here's his story. ALL windshields move around...some more then others. If that center strip shifts, it leaves the typical glass jockey less room in which to stuff that new glass into, so he can only cram it in as best he can! The trick is to have enough space to allow it to seat correctly, which, of course, requires center piece adjustment. But if this is an insurance job, it's not their responsibility to create more space....it's the OWNER who needs to have the space available. So if TS leaves too little space or...the center shifts (the owner's doing) it is OUR job to re-create that space in which to fit the glass. This means we take our coaches to a shop, have the center strip re-positioned and only THEN can the glass vendor do a good job!

This may make sense, in all actuality, but who amongst us is going to do that? I see this as an impossible situation....other than trading for that NEW ENTEGRA!

He also said my new glass was warranted against structural failure, so if I twist my frame and crack it agin, Guardian (the glass vendor) would replace it under warranty. Since I don't like how ugly this install turned out, I think I'm going 4-wheeling soon as I get up into the Colorado mountains next week.

As for the gasket deal, I don't think it matters whether there's a urethane sealant added between glass and gasket or to attach gasket to cap. The only reason to do this is to make up for distortions resultant from the install. Today's inspector is sending a guy up here tomorrow to do some cosmetic filling of the ugly gap between glass and gasket, keeping the scum from settling in there long-term.

Finally, I think I just may give up trying to do any additional X-bracing, since Guardian is supposedly going to just keep repairing my glass as fast as I break it!

roaming · 07-30-2012, 06:09 PM

Slabman is spot on - if they use plenty of adhesive to lock the windshield in, it just cracks instead of popping out. $2k to replace (which you can file for insurance) instead of $500 to reseat.

If the previous glass shop used silicone instead of urethane for adhesive, the new shop may be reluctant to work on it without complete removal which is a time-intensive procedure. Don't ask me how I know

drwyatt · 07-31-2012, 01:46 AM

Am I missing something. The center strip is a rubber spacer that floats between the 2 pieces of glass. It can move as the glass flexes within the frame. It should not hinder the placement of a side of the windshield. It moves from side to side. I have, on occasion, had to take a putty knife and lift one side back on top of the glass if it moved to far to one side.
I had my driver side glass replaced in May due to a rock fracture. I called Duncan and it was replaced by their agent in Phoenix who had worked for Duncan in Elkhart for 15 years. He installed windshields for many motorhome manfactureres in the Elkhart area. He said a lot of the windshield problems were due to inproper frames size due to poor QA in manufacturing. I think that those having a lot of windshield popping problem should consider the front cap and frame as the real source of the problem. The other option is to get a lower glass deductible. After all it seems that spending several thousand to fix a $500, $250 or $100 problem is not cost effective.