10kw Generator quit and won't start

[Traps90]

OK never did find any fuses, but I did open it up to check the fuel pump today, and have full 13.8volts at the pump, so now looking to get new fuel pump.

Looks like I have to go direct to Cummins cause no one here in Canada seem to stock or have access to the Airtex model

[GGC]

Here's a thought. Try tapping the pump with a small hammer, pliers, screw driver handle, etc. while holding the start switch. Same idea works on stubborn starters, bigger hammer, and can free a stuck float on an old carburetor. The impact may be enough to free up the internals and get the pump turning if the pump motor is still alive.
You can unplug the fuel pump and power up the pump directly with some jumpers and a battery or battery charger and see what happens. Could also be a bad connecter on one side.

[YC1]

If you have a full 13.8 volts at the pump it might have a bad ground. I would expect a bit less due to the load on the supply wire when the pump is running.

[YC1]

For future reference finding the fuses. You probably have to pull the neck of the filler tube out to access them. I have seen them but it has been some time.

I still suspect with that much voltage you may have a bad ground. However, and open pump winding would give you the same reading.

These generators need to be run hard and once a month is a good idea. The fuel filters can easily plug up and will surprise you how hard they are to blow through when plugged. I suspect plugged filters put extra work on the fuel pumps and may cause them do die an early death.

[Traps90]

Originally Posted by YC1

For future reference finding the fuses. You probably have to pull the neck of the filler tube out to access them. I have seen them but it has been some time.

I still suspect with that much voltage you may have a bad ground. However, and open pump winding would give you the same reading.

These generators need to be run hard and once a month is a good idea. The fuel filters can easily plug up and will surprise you how hard they are to blow through when plugged. I suspect plugged filters put extra work on the fuel pumps and may cause them do die an early death.

Thanks Myron, unfortunately mine is not the same as that. The only filler neck I have sticking out is for the coolant. (Oil is internal). I also have no access panel as shown, do have one on the other side but couldn't see any fuse from there when I removed it.

Will try and check the ground when I go to install the new fuel pump.
We always try and use the generator each month and usually spend a night or two dry camping each month

[GGC]

Installing a new pump without checking the old pump makes no sense.
Just unplug the old wires and power up directly with some jumper wires. How long will that take ten minutes maybe?
You may save a few bucks or you will then know the pump is dead.

[Steve Ownby]

Originally Posted by Traps90

Thanks Myron, unfortunately mine is not the same as that. The only filler neck I have sticking out is for the coolant. (Oil is internal). I also have no access panel as shown, do have one on the other side but couldn't see any fuse from there when I removed it.



Will try and check the ground when I go to install the new fuel pump.

We always try and use the generator each month and usually spend a night or two dry camping each month

I don't envy you Trap. I doubt that the placement and access to the lift pump has changed any from yours to mine. I sincerely hope it has. Mine is street side lower rear corner inside the big green box. On a trip around the Texas coast 2 winters ago, I started getting a steady drip from under the generator. Through the service door on the street side, I could see the leak was back in the area of the pump. Luckily it was cool enough that driving with the generator running wasn't necessary. We had a stop planned at Conroe, TX and I called around that area to see if I could fine a good service shop. No luck. One guy said that if he could work me in that the labor would most likely be in the $800-$1000 range due to the difficulty of access. The second day we were in Conroe, I started early and ran out the generator & started backing out fasteners. The top cover and the L shaped street side & back cover had to come off. That gave access to see where the leak was. Started the generator & fuel was spraying out of the rubber return hose, right next to the pump, a few inches from the end at the fitting going out of the box. I was able to cut the hose off and had enough slack to reattach. No more leak. The line had chaffed where it went through an internal bulkhead. The grommet protecting the line had gotten cracked & fallen out. A trip to Auto Zone procured a pack of universal grommets & all was well with the world. The $1000 job was accomplished for the cost of a handful of aspirin and a generous dollop of Scotch. I was stiff & sore for two days. One year later, I did the same job again in order to replace the fan belt & hoses. My generator had over 2000 hours on the clock & I decided to do that chore on my schedule rather than wait for a failure.

I really hope that experience is not in you future.

[Traps90]

Thanks everyone, luckily access to the fuel pump is via a small access panel located on the street side towards the rear and bottom of the generator. While a little tight it looks doable. But like your Steve especially with my shoulders I'm sure I'll be needing a few Advil when I have finished the install. Should have the new pump tomorrow.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by Steve Ownby

One year later, I did the same job again in order to replace the fan belt & hoses. My generator had over 2000 hours on the clock & I decided to do that chore on my schedule rather than wait for a failure.

I really hope that experience is not in you future.

Oh yeah! ... mine had 1500 hrs. and the belts were a hot mess. No fun at all !!

[carl.swoyer]

Could be water in the fuel

[Steve Ownby]

Originally Posted by Traps90

Thanks everyone, luckily access to the fuel pump is via a small access panel located on the street side towards the rear and bottom of the generator. While a little tight it looks doable. But like your Steve especially with my shoulders I'm sure I'll be needing a few Advil when I have finished the install. Should have the new pump tomorrow.

I just thought of something Trap. Dangerous I know. Where is you measure voltage to the pump? Was it directly at the pump or at the connector at the outside rear of the box?

[Traps90]

Originally Posted by Steve Ownby

I just thought of something Trap. Dangerous I know. Where is you measure voltage to the pump? Was it directly at the pump or at the connector at the outside rear of the box?

Disconnected the short wires coming off the pump and measured right there. Good power to there at least and the wires looked good and new for the real short run to the pump

[38 Special]

When I had the 3-6 code, I took it to Cummins for repair under my extended warranty.

My exerpts from the below thread on TRVN:

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MECHANICAL FAULT—CODE NO. 36
(The Controller declared this fault because engine speed fell below 1000 RPM for 0.5 seconds, though
not by Controller action)
Corrective Action:
1. Check fuel level and refill as necessary. (Note: The genset fuel pickup is probably higher than the
vehicle engine fuel pickup.)
2. Prime the engine fuel system for one minute (p. 2-4).
3. Check all fuel fittings for fuel and air leaks and tighten as necessary. Reprime.
4. Check the engine air filter and remove any blockage (p. 3-4).
5. Replace the fuel filter (p. 3-6).

--------

What fixed mine was:

Fuel Pump - A047N931 $77.81
Control Assembly - 300-5961 $666.51

Done July 2015 by Mid-South Cummins

My model number is: 10HDKCA11506B

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I have a copy of my diagnosis from Cummins in the below thread as a picture.

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[YC1]

Do me a favor and put the meter into the Ohms position and check the old one and the new one. I would like to save those readings for the future.