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Old 11-12-2019, 11:36 PM   #1
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110v outlets dead / Inverter not charging GFI not tripped / Breakers on Magnum reset

Greetings fellow Monoco owners,

This is a 2007 Camelot with the tag axle.

Tonight when I plugged in a 15 amp heater where I used it last year the power was fine for about 15 minutes and then everything went dead as far as the outlets were concerned.

I figured the inverter reset button / breakers were the culprit but they were not tripped.

I figured the GFI in the rear bath was the culprit but it was not and there was no electricity there to trip or reset it. There are no others I can find except that one.

The coach has 220v from the shore power through the transfer switch and the through the main breakers in the bathroom.

I checked every connection and every screw for tightness. 120/ 220 through the breaker box.

I have 110v everywhere when I turn on the inverter.

I do not have a charger from the inverter that is working and no light for the charger when I try to turn it on from the remote panel in the coach.

I did complete a hard reset on the inverter....remove all power to the coach, cut off the battery and coach switches, and remove the positive lead for a minute and then reattach it. Yes it sparked and its supposed to when it drains the capacitors.

I tightened everything back up and connected to shore power and turned on the switches and still nothing to the outlets and AC through the panel and AC when I turn on the inverter.

Ok guys, Let me know if anyone of you has a solution for me other that the inverter needing replacing. I am looking forward to removing this post with an answer being provided.

Thanks so much for your generous time and ability in advance.

Forever thankful.
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:01 AM   #2
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Not sure what inverter you have, but we just went thru a similar situation.
Turns out our Freedom inverter has an internal transfer (bypass) switch that failed.
(Power sharing bypass switch) We had a small heater (750w) plugged in to one of the wall outlets, the convection oven on and the wife turned on her hair dryer. Turns out all three devices were fed by the inverter bypass, even though we were plugged into 50a shore power. Boom, suddenly no wall outlets, oven or overhead lights. The inverter feeds a sub panel that went dead, in other words ac coming into the inverter but nothing coming out to the sub panel. The main breaker panel functioned normally, but the inverter panel that feeds the wall outlets, oven and 120 lighting went out.
Sounds like the inverter transfer switch may have failed like ours did. I still haven't pulled the inverter for inspection/repair/likely replacement as we rarely use it. I did disconnect the inverter sub panel feed from the inverter out hot lead and wire a temporary feed to it from the main breaker panel for now. In our situation the potential for overload from the inverter wall outlets and convection oven far exceeds the rated capacity of the inverter and internal inverter transfer switch.
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Old 11-13-2019, 01:26 AM   #3
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Greetings and thanks Alpine! Here is some more info

After the last post I decided to start the main engine and the generator to warm up the coach s it is a cold 40 degrees outside her sin florida tonight.

There was still no charging from the inverter but the generator and the main engine b=did bring the batteries right back up quickly.

Also when running on the generator there was still no power to the aforementioned outlets BUT when I turn on the inverter I went back to the GFI in the rear bath and was able to reset that GFI.

There is still no power to the coach outlets through out the coach even on the generator power unless I turn on the Inverter which does power everything / all outlets.

I am bout to leave the coach for three weeks so I guess I have no option without an inverter charging the batteries but to turn off the whole coach and leave it all silent with all the battery switches off etc.

If I was going to forecast my next move it would be to remove the inverter and just send it to Magnum for a thorough check.

By the way the washer / dryer works great and all of the roof airs have power too while the other outlets are dead. hmmmmm????

Strange stuff. No outlets when the generator is running?
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Old 11-13-2019, 02:29 AM   #4
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Don't think its the internal transfer switch of the inverter. The Magnums internal charger does not run thru that. It runs anytime shore power is present.

Have you confirmed 120 volts going TO the Magnum ? That would come from a breaker in the main panel.

Have you confirmed 240 volts at your shore power outlet. Probably fine if 2 A/C's run, unless you have 3 of them. If 3, turn them all on as a test.

A bad cord reel, if equipped, can knock out 1/2 the power. Move it in and out to see if things change.
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Old 11-13-2019, 06:31 AM   #5
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I have a gfi in the pass through bay that controls several outlets inside the coach.
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Old 11-13-2019, 07:38 PM   #6
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I might have missed it but did you check the AC power at the input of inverter?

Power probably routes from your AC breaker panel directly to the input of the inverter.

There may be a small cover you can remove to take a measurement.
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:44 PM   #7
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You should have two sets of circuit breakers, one main set and a separate set for the inverter wiring.
If you have only found the GFI in the bathroom, you have at least one and maybe two more. They can be hidden in the worst places. Like spdracr39 said, they can be in the basement. I've also found them under the bedroom cabinet and hidden in the kitchen.

Some Monaco coaches have a GFI button built into the circuit breaker. Our coach has two circuit breakers in the Inverter breaker panel with yellow GFI buttons.

Regardless, make sure you trip, and then reset the circuit breaker on the circuit the heater was plugged into.

IF it comes down to it Magnum has repair centers across the country. You can remove the inverter and add a jumper set to bypass it while it's out. Then have it checked at a Magnum repair center.
Hope you find it!
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Old 11-14-2019, 05:00 AM   #8
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With no charging from the inverter/charger get back under and look for more resetable breakers on it.

The shore or generator power comes in to the main breaker panel, goes out to the inverter, which has breakers, and then back to the main or sub panel. There is no GFCI devices in that section of wiring.
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Old 11-14-2019, 10:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
With no charging from the inverter/charger get back under and look for more resetable breakers on it.

The shore or generator power comes in to the main breaker panel, goes out to the inverter, which has breakers, and then back to the main or sub panel. There is no GFCI devices in that section of wiring.
It sounds crazy, turn the breakers on the generator off and on. see what happens.

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Old 11-17-2019, 01:12 AM   #10
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If you have 120v coming into the inverter and nothing coming ourfvof the inverter, the problem in in the inverter. If that iscc the case you can bypass the inverter by simply connecting the input wires to the output wires. I had my inverter fail when it was running on shore power and generator power. However it worked fine on 12 volt battery power. I replaced my out of warranty ME2012 with a MS2812 true sinewave. Everything is much happier now with the new inverter.
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Old 11-20-2019, 04:20 PM   #11
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This just happen to us. No power to most of the AC outlets and inverter was not charging batteries.

The inverter not charging can be caused by several things, but in my case it was self induced.
After a couple hours of thrashing and some help from KJV7, it turned out to be the inverter AC Input settings. CTRL: 01 AC-In Control was set to AC-In-Disabled.

Three days prior I was experimenting with the AC Input and had changed it to Time Connect (this was to test the solar charge rate in mid day).
Evidently when I changed it back to Auto Connect I did not select it correctly.

The result was we were running on battery power with no battery charger, (except for the solar charging in mid day). This lasted a few days until the batteries hit the LBCO voltage cutout. Then the inverter system goes into Fault mode and shuts everything down. This includes the AC pass through.

The result was chaos! I connected a separate battery charger and brought the batteries back up to 12.2v before the AC pass through would reset.
The problem here is where do you plug the 110v battery charger in when the shore power pedestal only has the RV 50a outlet and most of the coach outlets are dead! With Jim's help I used the Insta-Hot outlet which is not an inverter pass through.

A side issue is I was unable to locate the Block Heater outlet in this coach. It is also one of the few that are not inverter pass though outlets. My other Monaco's have had the block heater outlet in the engine bay on the driver's side in plain sight. I still have not located it, so if anyone knows where it is on a 2004 Signature, I'd appreciate the info.

Hope this helps!
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Old 11-20-2019, 10:24 PM   #12
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Hmmm..... I know a few answers. If all 3 roof heat pumps work, the cord reel isn't the problem. That's one way of knowing if you've lost one hot lead of the cord reel. My advice is never ever ever move the cord in and out when plugged in. If it is under load it can start arcing which is the beginning of the end of your cord reel. (this from the engineer at the reel mfg. while working on mine)

I've also upgraded from the 2012 MSW inverter to the 2812 TSW inverter. It's a simple swap with no modifications needed.

On my 07 Beaver the engine heat is the rear outlet under the bed, curb side. The rocker switch to the left of the drivers seat turns it on and off.

Every 110v breaker in my rig is GFI. But the advice to pull the small plate off the side of the inverter and check 110v in and out is a good one. On mine the plate is on the forward side of the inverter which is mounted upside down on the ceiling of the bay. 110 v Romex like wires enter right near there.
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Old 11-21-2019, 11:51 AM   #13
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I also used the A/C-Heat Pumps for trouble shooting. The problem is they take 5 min for the A/C or Heat pump to time in. A shortcut is to turn the Fan to High instead of Auto and they will come on instantly letting you know they have power. Like bucks2 said, you need to check them all to verify you have incoming power on both legs of incoming AC power.
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