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Old 10-04-2015, 05:59 AM   #1
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12 Volt Brown out.

I just got back from from a couple day trip up north. The problem I was having was when I turned on a bunch of lights or if I turned on the furnace it was like the draw was to much and everything would brown out. I shut off all the lights and just tried the furnace and it would brown out when it tried to light.

I fired up the genny to see if that would help and it didn't. I also started the coach to see if that would help and it didn't. I got some crazy readings on my RC6 panel. It showed low battery, also over load. wich is strange because last year I replaced the batteries so they should be good. So I am guessing that it is just a 12 volt problem.

Any help would be great on where to start to diagnose this problem. I'm not that great with a multi-meter but I'm also not a complete idiot either. Thanks in advance and please be patient with me.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:32 AM   #2
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Start with cleaning your battery terminals, and all other 12 VDC connections that you can find. If you can use a meter, after cleaning the 12v disconnect solenoid switch(House disconnect), take a voltage reading on both posts to make sure they are the same.
A "Brown out" situation/bad connections with DC voltage is bad, it makes a lot of heat, and will burn/melt the insulation off the wires, and then....... you know what. Don't forget grounding points also.
Another definition for DC voltage is "Destructive Voltage".
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:36 AM   #3
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You probably just have a loose connection. Since all forms of "charging" have been tested it seems your supply line to the 12 volt fuse panels is having issues.

Grab a note pad to make and document some readings. If you just go tugging on cables and connectors you may cure an intermittent problem temporarily.

Check the center posts of the batteries with no load. Then turn on a bunch of lights until you reach the brown out condition. Now measure the battery again and then move your negative lead to some part of the rv that is grounded. A shiny place on the frame would be nice. With your other lead you should then carefully move to places you can see where the positive lead goes. When you come to a lower than battery voltage point you then need to tighten any loose nuts found in the area.

Clear as mud here I know. You are looking for a pinch in the garden hose. Some place along the way a connection is not working properly and is preventing the full faucet pressure to reach the lights etc. I do not mean to imply you will find a pinched wire but instead a bad connection. Since you replaced the batteries it is not uncommon to need to tighten things up again.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:37 AM   #4
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Wow....this is an interesting one. For starters it doe not sound like you have a full charge on the batteries so the very first step should be to get a voltmeter across the battery terminals (do not disconnect the batteries; need to know what the reading is with the current load attached). Once you have confirmed that the batteries are not fully charged start the generator and measure the voltage again at the battery terminals; I suspect that you are not charging but that needs to be confirmed before you go ay further. This is where those really small things like corroded grounds can play havoc so do not overlook them during your troubleshooting. Let us know what you find and good hunting.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:44 AM   #5
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I am surprised no one has suggested to bypass the notorious "salesman switch" solenoid.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:49 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palehorse89 View Post
Start with cleaning your battery terminals, and all other 12 VDC connections that you can find. If you can use a meter, after cleaning the 12v disconnect solenoid switch(House disconnect), take a voltage reading on both posts to make sure they are the same.
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Quote:
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I am surprised no one has suggested to bypass the notorious "salesman switch" solenoid.
I did...........at least to test it and check/clean the connections
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Old 10-04-2015, 09:20 AM   #7
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You sure did Palehorse. Sorry I missed that.
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Old 10-04-2015, 02:13 PM   #8
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Batteries were fully charged, all the connections work clean, and they were nice and tight. Everything seem to have continual power including the salesman switches.
I turned on all the lights to cause it to Brown out again. When I did that I lost all 12 volt power to the coach. I checked everything in the back. And the only thing that I found was the continuous House solenoid was very hot. I'm thinking that that might be the problem.
I called the dealer down my street and told him that I had in 85 - 12 volt house solenoid. He told me all they had was a 14 volt solenoid. Do you think that will matter?
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Old 10-04-2015, 02:15 PM   #9
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Also with the batteries fully charged, I am still getting a low battery reading.
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Old 10-04-2015, 02:16 PM   #10
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Also forgot to mention that I lost all power going to the 12 volt fuse panel in my bedroom.
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Old 10-04-2015, 02:23 PM   #11
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Batteries can seem to be fully charged, until a load is induced on them. Have you had them load tested? to make "Sure" they are are "All" in good shape?
https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?...&hsimp=yhs-004
You would need to replace the disconnect switch with a 12 DC switch, it would take 14 vdc to operate the one in question properly.
EDIT: Sounds like you have a battery.voltage problem, take your batteries to your local automotive store and have them load tested, to make sure they are all up to snuff.
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Old 10-04-2015, 02:35 PM   #12
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You need to be making voltage measurements! Finding a handy ground on an rv is a pain.

Grab an extension cord and plug it into one of the outlets in the rv. Then poke the negative lead into the ground lug of the extension cord. Use some duct tape to keep a good connection. Now you can wander around and take some measurements, once again use a note pad and do not try to remember what you had.

Start at the battery posts centers, not the cables or connectors. Measure both the negative and positive center posts. Do this with your lights on and off,

Then move the positive probe (sharpened like a needle on a bench grinder), to somewhere just off each post.

The solenoid you are talking about being hot is probably a normal full time device and can run so hot they will burn your fingers. Being hot does not make them bad.

Do not just start throwing parts at this issue or you may never find the real problem. You may cause more problems as often is the case from someone leaving a wire off or reconnecting incorrectly.

Once you get a few readings then report back and things can be sorted quickly.

We used to take bets on how many places we would need to measure to find these types of problems.

Take some measurements and take some pictures.
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Old 10-04-2015, 03:42 PM   #13
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Took the batteries to the auto store and had them tested, and load tested. They are good.
The solinoid on the coach is a 85-12 9 kd.
The solinoid the parts store had was a 12-85 5cc.
Will that be okay. They match perfect.
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Old 10-04-2015, 04:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AttilaKara72 View Post
Took the batteries to the auto store and had them tested, and load tested. They are good.
The solinoid on the coach is a 85-12 9 kd.
The solinoid the parts store had was a 12-85 5cc.
Will that be okay. They match perfect.
What do you mean by the highlighted above?
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