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Old 11-27-2007, 02:03 PM   #29
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It looks like my solenoid has gone bad too. We got back from a trip 8 days ago. Went out to the storage facility today to do some tinkering and nothing in the house would work. I hadn't realized that the generator starts with the house batteries. Not even the light on the 12V disconnect switch by the door will work. I'll go back tomorrow and do some metering and probable bypassing. Great pictures Kevin. Thanks
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Old 08-16-2009, 10:10 PM   #30
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Problem - find solution on IVR2 !!!

Hi

It always amazes me how darn good this forum is !!!

Watching tv this morning in 106 degree heat and the a/c went off as did all the 12 volt in the coach. I spent way too long "troubleshooting" the problem. Some things (the refigerator and convection oven, TV) worked, but the AC, lights and most of the outlets didn't.

Everything checked okay - but couldn't get 12 volt on generator or from shore power.

Late afternoon, went over to my son and daughters house to cool off, grab a bite and get on the internet.

Fast search and BINGO there is the answer. The 12 Volt solenoid (battery shut off)! I raced over and bypassed it and it WORKED.

Tomorrow will get the right bypass cables, and do it correctly! Reading the forum, I guess I am suprized that it took this long for my 2007 Dip to have a failure in this area.

I want to thank everyone again !!!
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Old 08-17-2009, 10:36 AM   #31
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SUGGESTION

Bpass with a switch, either a marine grade battery switch (rotary) or a knife switch.. That way you can "un-bypass" when you need

And if you ever replace the solenoid, label the switch and leave it in the "Open" (Disconnected) position so if you ever have to do it again "Click" and you are done.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:06 PM   #32
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Yes it has been a while since the post, but the issues keep on recurring and my 2003 Imperial did the same thing this week. Inverter works, batteries up, no coach 12 VDC. I checked everything I could think of but could not determine the problem. Obviously, it is the dash battery disconnect switch.

Thanks for posting these issues, because the same issues continue.
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:39 AM   #33
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just read this post and I'm having problems with all the 12v in my coach. I am not fully sure what I'm doing as I just bought the coach and all of a sudden the 12v lights, thermostat, EVERYTHING that is 12v I think, is out. engine starts, generator starts, outlets work, auto shades, steps etc. but radio, thermostat, ALL lights inside don't work. Tv's do work when power is built up by generator.

Hoping I can figure it out.

Does anyone else have problems seeing the photos that were posted earlier about by passing?
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Old 03-14-2011, 09:30 PM   #34
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Solenoid in compartment by driver bay, went bad and had to bypass it! Very easy to do, holiday rambler tech was crazy helpful. We now have lights!
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Old 03-15-2011, 10:00 AM   #35
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Warning- Reading this post may make your parts supplier unhappy.

How I fixed my Intelletec Battery Control System..... For FREE!!!!!
(May apply to other remote disconnect systems as well)

A few years ago (2006) I pulled into a Flying-J, low on Propane I pulled up to the propane pump and hit the "STORE" side of the disconnect control.. There was a CLUNK from the control box under the hood and all the 12 volt stuff, including the firdge, the furnace and so on went dark.

Gassed up, pulled away, parked for dinner, and hit the USE switch,, NOTHING, no lights, no fridge, no furnace, no CLUNK (This last is of vital improtance) NO CLUNK!

Like the O/P I bypassed it till I could look into it.. Got to Las Vegas and had time to look into it.

Downloading the service manual for the control system I found the test points and hooked up a test lamp, had my wife operate the switch.

In the STORE position the light lit normally as expected, IN the USE position, no light (if you understand how the solenoid works, as I do now, this step could have been skipped)

Pulled the switch panel, (I could have just pulled the 5 amp control fuse) and operated the switch several (2-5 dozen) times with NO POWER TO IT (that is with the wires disconnected)

This is a "Self Cleaning" type of switch.. However if it gets dirty enough then it can't self clean under power.

Operating without power causes the contacts to wipe themselves clean.

Re-connecting it I was rewarded with a loud CLUNK when I pressed it in either direction (from the solenoid) and when I disconnected the jumper I used everything still worked.

NOTE: It's been 5 years and it still works.

Yes, I got lucky... I have tried this method of cleaning switches several times.. It has worked twice. This and one other switch.
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Old 03-17-2011, 08:44 PM   #36
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My 12V house solenoid failed also. I replaced it, but I still don't see a good reason why the factory put it in. It was in the elect panel that is in the left front compartment. I think I will get a jumper made up, so if it fails again, I will be able to bypass it.
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