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Old 12-30-2012, 06:30 PM   #15
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Only the lights in the two front slide rooms, step well and copilot map light don't work. Other 12v lights in the coach are working just fine as are the ceiling fans.

Larry
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:35 PM   #16
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Only the front two slide room, step well, copilot map light don't work. Other overhead and fan lights, bathroom, bedroom lights work just fine.
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Old 12-30-2012, 06:45 PM   #17
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TV rope lights and christmas lights sounds like 110V stuff. Does anything 12V coach work ? Are you on shore power or invertor for 110V ?
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tompen View Post
TV rope lights and christmas lights sounds like 110V stuff. Does anything 12V coach work ? Are you on shore power or invertor for 110V ?
The reference to 110v was in answer to Bill Willard's post on the first page. Yes lots of 12v stuff works. I really suspect a fuse or broken wire or a failed relay that directs 12v power to the front 2 slide rooms.

I will find my VOM tomorrow and make check some fuses.

Larry
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Old 12-30-2012, 09:49 PM   #19
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Well I thought I edited my first response but see it did not take.

Here is likely your answer.

And to help you even further, I went out to my mh and pulled the fuses to see if the center lights went out. They did with F9.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf FUSE CENTER, 12V bedroom.pdf (32.4 KB, 20 views)
File Type: pdf FUSE PANEL Interior in bedroom.pdf (51.4 KB, 19 views)
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Old 12-30-2012, 10:28 PM   #20
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It never ceases to amaze me at what lengths folks on this Monaco forum will go to to try to help each other. Just a couple examples are REX willing to copy and mail a CD. Rex is always in here with help. And YC1 went to the trouble to pull fuses to help troubleshoot. What a great forum and bunch of good guys and gals. Too many to mention you all.I hope you get this sorted out soon Larry.Have a great New Year everyone.RB
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:48 AM   #21
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YC1, thanks. I will check that fuse a little later, after coffee and sunrise here in Sarasota FL.

However, as I was fixing my coffee this morning I happened to flip one of the switches for the lights that went out and on they came. I tried the remaining switches and everything worked.

As RB said, these forums are the greatest. Folks are really wonderful on this and other forums I have used in the past. I hope I can be of help to others as I learn more about my coach.

Thanks all.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:14 AM   #22
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Any ideas.. Several..

The most common is a 2nd switch.. For example in my coach all the ceiling lights have switches mounted on teh lights (Save the two track lights I added). however one in the main bath has a wall switch, One in the bedroom does (This switch also controls the track lights) one in the half bath has a wall switch, THREE in the Living area have a wall switch and one in the cockpit has a dash switch.

Both the wall/dash switch and the switch on the light must be on. Both switches off is the most common cause of "Honey the light don't work" so much so I've blocked some of the switches

(The other fun one was when she told me only one side of the light in my side of the closet worked... Yup, that's true, single lamp fixture, only has one side).

Now: to your problem... How did you determine the fuse was good? (Visual inspection does not always show a failed (not blown but failed) fuse.. My Ohmmeter will often fail to go BEEP on a fuse that looks pristine. This is not so much true of the blade fuses, but it has happened there too)

Next, Are you sure it's the right fuse.. Labeling fuses is not something RV manufacturers are all that good at.. Hookign 'em up differently than on the diagram.. Very good at.

Take a test lamp (You can use a volt meter but test lamps are so so much faster) and ground the clip.
now go down each fuse, at each end of the blade fuse is a small window with a metal contact, Touch both ends one after the other.

LIGHT/LIGHT = Good fuse
LIGHT/DARK or DARK/LIGHT = blown fuse

LIGHT = about 12.6 to 14 volt on your volt meter

But it is so much faster to "Read" the light.

You can buy test lights, (look like an ice pick with a wire sticking out the handle) at auto parts places.

Or you can home brew.. License plate socket with 2 leads, Put a ground clip on one, extend the other to a probe put a dash lamp in the socket. I have both kinds and more lying about here.


Finally.. The fact that the lights are now working supports the following theories. One of which is likely right.

1: The fuse did not make good contact with its socket, removal and replacment fixed it

2: Secondary switch

3: Bad connection somewhere along the path of power.. (That one can save you a trip to the barber shop.. after pulling all your hair out in frustration you don't need a haricut any more).
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:23 AM   #23
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WA8xym, any chance that the shore power 50A was only delivering one side of the 220v and OP was just getting 120v on part of his coach and not getting the other side 120v on the section that was out?
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:52 PM   #24
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Barlow, shoreline would not effect the DC circuits involved here.

One thing I have done on all of my fluoresent lights that have a swith on the end as well as an on off on the wall. When you get them to light use a sharpie and put a dot on the switch and on the light fixture. This way you won't get confused chasing a ghost.

In my MH two of the overhead lights are controlled by two switches. One in the Bedroom and one as you enter the mh. This allows you to light the whole mh from either end quickly. So getting the switches on the fixtures into the right position and knowing they are in the right position is very useful.

So those two lights have two rocker switches. The rest of my fluoresent lights have just one rocker and the one on the fixture.

Once you have sorted this out, make some notes and keep them in the front of your operator manual. You think you won't forget but a couple of months not in the RV and you will.

The other helpful hint is to use a label maker to mark certain light switches by the door. Those can be very confusing. I also mark the 110 volt outlets that are hot with the inverter on. What I really need to do is trip the gfci's and mark those outlet or at least document which ones are controlled. They put those breakers in the silliest places.

Happy New Year.
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Old 12-31-2012, 02:45 PM   #25
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Larry -- Do you have the muliplex system ? If you do, the DC control mondule is in the AC panel control center(where the 110 breakers are) There will be 3 black wires going into a block & 3 black wires out to AC breakers -- This is a flat, plastic piece about the size of your hand , & it clips into the inside of the panel box -- On the underside of this piece, are some 12v connections & a 12v fuse -- This controls your 12v system -- This is how your AC CAN, cause DC problems if you overload your circuits -- The reason for the 3 wires in & 3 wires out, is if you try to use more AC than is available, it will drop AC circuits till it meets the incoming power -- The droped circuits would be air conditioners, & such -- Bill Willard
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry and Suzette View Post
YC1, thanks. I will check that fuse a little later, after coffee and sunrise here in Sarasota FL.

However, as I was fixing my coffee this morning I happened to flip one of the switches for the lights that went out and on they came. I tried the remaining switches and everything worked.

As RB said, these forums are the greatest. Folks are really wonderful on this and other forums I have used in the past. I hope I can be of help to others as I learn more about my coach.

Thanks all.
Now that you have a working light go to the fuse panel and start pulling fuses. When you find the one that controls it as suggested you might want to tighten the contacts of the socket by squeezing with needle nose pliars.
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:03 PM   #27
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Bill.
The Endeavor does not have the multiplex system like ours.
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Old 12-31-2012, 10:29 PM   #28
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yc1, I will do the fuse checking tomorrow, well actually today now.

happy new year to all and thanks for your help.

Larry
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