New batteries will fix a LOT of small problems. Believe me on that one.
I just kept jumping the house batteries to test and kept it hooked up to shore power.
Figured out the loss of interior lights, replaced the 12v solenoid and VOILA!
So I hooked up a tester light to the fuel shut off solenoid, traced the wire all the way forward, then all the way back. Wow that thing has some traveling to do.
I found it was losing power in the STARTER BOX in the engine bay!
I took it apart, shook A LOT of dirt out and used di-electric grease on the pig tail and wow, it started working.
I only replaced 3 solenoids. The starter solenoid (always nice to have something new there) the accessory solenoid (I'm going to be running a lot of stuff) and I used the old accessory solenoid for the house battery solenoid for the 12v solenoid, only because the auto parts place was closed haha..
So now it's up and running, the rpm gauge isn't working, it's showing a slow charge at 8 instead of 12 or 14. So I'm manually charging the batteries tonight and going to drive it in to work tomorrow and see how she handles.
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Took me 3 days straight of staying up until midnight... Tracking down a fault in the wiring that wouldn't let Ol Bessy run... Finally a Hail Mary and she fired up. Couldn't have happened without Monaco Coach out of Eugene, Or. Especially Jason and Robert! Walking me through the schematics piece by piece. I didn't even purchase it from them and it's 25 years old! But this company was more then willing to help me get it back on the road! Can't wait to go camping now!
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
Quote:
Originally Posted by 91dynasty
Here is video and pics of it being towed this morning.
That's a bigger tow rig than they towed our 45' 50,000# Magna with. When he got done the driver complained about his front axle bouncing off the ground.
BTW, good price and that leave's room to buy some things to get it going.
I wish the new Country Coach was as accommodating! Seems like they want a credit card number before answering.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
Took me 3 days straight of staying up until midnight... Tracking down a fault in the wiring that wouldn't let Ol Bessy run... Finally a Hail Mary and she fired up. Couldn't have happened without Monaco Coach out of Eugene, Or. Especially Jason and Robert! Walking me through the schematics piece by piece. I didn't even purchase it from them and it's 25 years old! But this company was more then willing to help me get it back on the road! Can't wait to go camping now!
You're gold. I thought I got a great deal on our coach. Nice going man.
Ordered a new ignition from Amazon and lock cylinder $29.
I'm going to track down why the speedo and rpm gauge aren't working. Could be the ignition, we'll see thursday. amazon prime woot!
It's registering max oil PSI on the gauge, I'm assuming it's not working either. When I get home I'll trace that down, make sure it's not really that high.
Need to get this up and running by august 14th.
I charged the batteries all night and they seemed to drain rather quickly. Here is a photo of the batteries.
I'm assuming the black huge battery is the start battery and the green ones (deep cycle) are the house batteries.
The RPM gauge not working could be an alternator failure. The speedo gauge not working could be a dash ground problem.
Monaco was notorious for daisy chaining all dash gauges with one common ground which went to a ground buss bar on the front firewall. Sometimes cleaning and tightening all ground connections helps. Sometimes adding more ground wires into the link, connecting them to the front firewall helps.
The RPM gauge not working could be an alternator failure. The speedo gauge not working could be a dash ground problem.
Monaco was notorious for daisy chaining all dash gauges with one common ground which went to a ground buss bar on the front firewall. Sometimes cleaning and tightening all ground connections helps. Sometimes adding more ground wires into the link, connecting them to the front firewall helps.
Jim
Battery gauge showing 11 volts and the tachometer not working is possible Alternator failure? Is there a regulator or anything I could check before I replace it?
Battery gauge showing 11 volts and the tachometer not working is possible Alternator failure? Is there a regulator or anything I could check before I replace it?
I'll do the grounds first thing tomorrow! Thanks
OK. 11 Volts represents basically a dead battery. It should be reading somewhere between 12.4 and 12.8 volts. When the alternator is charging, it should be outputting somewhere between 13.8 and 14.4 volts. I'm shooting this off the top of my head, so the figures could be off a little, but probably not by much.
The tachometer signal comes from the AC post on the alternator. Usually the first sign that the alternator is getting ready to fail is the signal from that AC post becomes erratic, causing the tachometer to read erratically. I think the first best thing to do is to take the alternator off and have it tested. Make sure to take the regulator in with it. If the alternator is not working, have it rebuilt. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT replace the alternator with a different new WILL FIT alternator. It will only lead to lots and lots of trouble down the road.
OK. 11 Volts represents basically a dead battery. It should be reading somewhere between 12.4 and 12.8 volts. When the alternator is charging, it should be outputting somewhere between 13.8 and 14.4 volts. I'm shooting this off the top of my head, so the figures could be off a little, but probably not by much.
The tachometer signal comes from the AC post on the alternator. Usually the first sign that the alternator is getting ready to fail is the signal from that AC post becomes erratic, causing the tachometer to read erratically. I think the first best thing to do is to take the alternator off and have it tested. Make sure to take the regulator in with it. If the alternator is not working, have it rebuilt. Do not, I repeat, DO NOT replace the alternator with a different new WILL FIT alternator. It will only lead to lots and lots of trouble down the road.
Jim
I replaced the voltage regulator, guess it uses an old Ford Regulator. I wired in a new plug for it too. Basically rusted off in my hands when I was trying to unhook it.
My tach is reading 0 and nothing changes.
I'll remove the alternator and find someone local to rebuild it.
I got new schematics from Monaco this morning on how to change it to a newer alternator with built in regulator, but I'll just stick with the old stuff and make it new again
While it's getting rebuilt I need to talk 2 more problems.
Excessive blue smoke at start up makes me believe it is leaking oil from the valves. So a rebuild of the head is in my future
I can do it while it's still on the engine, as long as I can get the tools in there. Pressurize the cylinder by hooking up air line into the injector and it should keep the valve all the way up.
Second issue and the more important one, even more important than the alternator.
AIR IN THE FUEL SYSTEM -
It will stay primed and try to fire on the second rotation at startup, but immediately loses fuel somewhere in the air system.
I have to spray starting fluid to get it to run fast enough to suck out the air, and keep my foot on the accelerator until it gets to consistent fluid.
After that and for a few hours after that, it runs just fine and starts up just fine.
After sitting for 4 hours or more, same issue again....
Regarding the fuel problem, I experienced the same problem with our coach a few years ago.
I'm guessing that your primary fuel filter is a Wynn Racor filter/primer unit. If it is, you can see the filter, and a clear glass bowl. Those units were notorious for leaking air into the system. The struggle was that they wouldn't exhibit any sign of fuel leakage, but after the engine is shut down, they would allow air to be sucked into the system, which would siphon the fuel back to the fuel tank. I replaced my unit with a Racor 790R30 unit, which has worked flawlessly ever since. You could test if this is the problem by bypassing the primary unit, although I wouldn't make that a permanent change, as it is extremely important to have the primary filter.
If this is not the problem another possibility is the fuel lift pump. It should be mounted to the engine slightly above the starter. It should have a manual fuel pump plunger that you can use to pump fuel up into the system. Not expensive to change. Although failure of this lift pump usually causes external fuel leakage or fuel leakage into the engine oil. But, worth a look see.
Getting back to the primary filter/primer. There should be an accommodation there to either operate an electric primer to build up the fuel to the system, or a manual hand pump to do the same thing. You should be trying to do this instead of using starter fluid. I think your engine should have a intake manifold electric preheater which can be ruined by using starter fluid.
Regarding the fuel problem, I experienced the same problem with our coach a few years ago.
I'm guessing that your primary fuel filter is a Wynn Racor filter/primer unit. If it is, you can see the filter, and a clear glass bowl. Those units were notorious for leaking air into the system. The struggle was that they wouldn't exhibit any sign of fuel leakage, but after the engine is shut down, they would allow air to be sucked into the system, which would siphon the fuel back to the fuel tank. I replaced my unit with a Racor 790R30 unit, which has worked flawlessly ever since. You could test if this is the problem by bypassing the primary unit, although I wouldn't make that a permanent change, as it is extremely important to have the primary filter.
If this is not the problem another possibility is the fuel lift pump. It should be mounted to the engine slightly above the starter. It should have a manual fuel pump plunger that you can use to pump fuel up into the system. Not expensive to change. Although failure of this lift pump usually causes external fuel leakage or fuel leakage into the engine oil. But, worth a look see.
Getting back to the primary filter/primer. There should be an accommodation there to either operate an electric primer to build up the fuel to the system, or a manual hand pump to do the same thing. You should be trying to do this instead of using starter fluid. I think your engine should have a intake manifold electric preheater which can be ruined by using starter fluid.
That's all I can think of right now.
Jim
Attached is a picture of my primary filter and fuel pump. Also a parts picture of my lift pump which is diaphragm with a manual pump.
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