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Old 03-05-2019, 10:53 PM   #1
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Unhappy 1997 Beaver - Electricity not working (newbie)

Hi everyone!

Thank you for helping me with this.

I was using the RV connected to the house, via an adapter straight to a regular outlet. It rained in the connection with the extension cord, and kind of melted it up. I decided to make a new adapter and to hook it up in the dryer outlet, since it has a higher amperage it should charge stuff faster - Yes, I know that was dumb of me.
Anyways, I build the adapter, plug it in and still nothing. Nothing was happening before (because the battery got drained) and nothing was happening now.
I call an RV maintenance company in bend, OR and tell the guy this story, he tells me the inverter is likely to be burnt.
I tell that to my friend, the RV owner, and he tells me that the inverter has been acting weird before. We try to hook up the batteries to one of those battery chargers that you use to charge your car or motorcycle battery. I left it on there for over 5 days, changed the position of the clips, left for another 5 days or so and nothing. I try to start the bus and nothing.
The owner tells me that there might be a lever or a switch or a popped fuse or something to make it recharge again, somewhere nearby the inverter. I don't know where that is nor what to look for.
but here's the thing: It's not my bus, I don't know jack **** about it and I got to figure out a way to fix it. An electrician charges me $100 a 30min visit plus $100/h; I don't have that kind of money.
Can anyone please shed some light on this issue?
The bus is a 1997 beaver Marquis Tourmaline 40ft
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Old 03-05-2019, 11:29 PM   #2
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Well a lot depends on if you wired the adapter right, what type of dryer outlet this was. If you miswired a 30 amp 240V 3 wire dryer outlet to connect to a 30 amp 120V RV plug, then chances are you fried nearly every electrical and electronic device in the RV.



On the other hand if you wired up the adapter right, then it may be something as simple as a tripped breaker, without knowing what you did it is hard to say more than this.
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Old 03-06-2019, 01:12 AM   #3
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Welcome to the forum!!

My best solution is to connect it to a professionally wired 50A RV plug, and after turning off all of the AC breakers, take your meter and start walking down the system and see how far that you have power. If there is not a surge protector before the transfer switch, you will be lucky if the breakers caught any of the load that went thru before the transfer fried.
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Old 03-06-2019, 07:00 AM   #4
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If that dryer outlet had only three prongs/slots, it is 240v only and you fried stuff.Maybe a lot of stuff. If it was a 4-prong outlet, then it depends on how you wired the adapter.


Using a higher amp outlet probably has no effect on charging speed. 15A is plenty to power the inverter/charger at its max rate if little else is consuming power. 15A @ 120v is sufficient to power the charger at 125-150A rate (probably the rated max for the charger anyway) and it's doubtful if that the battery bank could accept more than that.
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Old 03-06-2019, 09:12 AM   #5
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Do you have any 120V power in coach (say for roof Air conditioning) when your running the Generator?

If yes, then the Transfer Switch is probably okay. You would also need to plug into 50A campground power and then test that the roof AC works to know for sure.

But if roof AC works okay off Generator than check power at Inverter breaker box with generator running. If you have power at breaker box and still have no power from inverter then troubleshoot inverter (check its circuit breakers, etc.)

Here is a basic power circuit showing how Shore Power and Generator power feed into Transfer Switch then power splits to feed the 120V high amperage circuits (liek roof AC) and the Inverter.
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePowells View Post
Welcome to the forum!!

My best solution is to connect it to a professionally wired 50A RV plug, and after turning off all of the AC breakers, take your meter and start walking down the system and see how far that you have power. If there is not a surge protector before the transfer switch, you will be lucky if the breakers caught any of the load that went thru before the transfer fried.
That option is not available, there's no 50A RV plug
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:59 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CountryB View Post
Do you have any 120V power in coach (say for roof Air conditioning) when your running the Generator?

If yes, then the Transfer Switch is probably okay. You would also need to plug into 50A campground power and then test that the roof AC works to know for sure.

But if roof AC works okay off Generator than check power at Inverter breaker box with generator running. If you have power at breaker box and still have no power from inverter then troubleshoot inverter (check its circuit breakers, etc.)

Here is a basic power circuit showing how Shore Power and Generator power feed into Transfer Switch then power splits to feed the 120V high amperage circuits (liek roof AC) and the Inverter.
No 120V power. batteries are depleted. I just checked the inverter, made a video, will post lnk in comments

I really appreciate the schematic! Thank you very much!
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Old 03-12-2019, 03:23 PM   #8
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Post Update + new info

So I just went under the RV, found the inverter and the breaker (which had the blue prong halfway tripped).

It doesn't charge, it doesn't invert (probably because depleted batteries) and it's being weird. However it still powers up and flashes some lights, that gives me hope that the thing is not fried.

Let me rant for a second: Howcome super duper expensive badass high level Class A coach doesn't have a simple stupid fuse to blow up and protect the inverter whenever a dumbass like me do stupid ****?
Done ranting.

Here's a few videos I made to have more info available. Thank you very much for helping me with this you guys I really appreciate it!


These first two show how the inverter behaves:
- https://youtu.be/vYzGAzoYiTs
- https://youtu.be/T8r6IRN2Als

This shows there's no power going to the inverter
- https://youtu.be/n7eer51GPNQ

This one shows the current hookup
- https://youtu.be/RBR5ZbhH3Pk

And the last one shows the wiring of the dryer connection I made
- https://youtu.be/RBR5ZbhH3Pk
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Old 03-12-2019, 04:46 PM   #9
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You cant trust your tester the way your using it. You need to use the probes and measure the 120VAC power. Your inductive meter just says there is current flow in the wires but doesn't say how much.

I would start at the transfer switch. Test for 120V at the input side (the power cable coming in). Then check the output side. If you have 120V coming out of transfer switch then check the circuit beaker that feeds the coach and the one that feeds the inverter. Check both sides of the circuit breaker.

Remember that if your Transfer switch is working you will have 120V for the roof AC units (that 120V doesn't go through Inverter). Since you are plugged into (looks like) 20A circuit, there may not be enough power to run roof AC, but the circuit breaker panel in the coach should have 120V at it of Transfer switch is good.
Start with that test and report back. Good luck
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Old 03-12-2019, 05:46 PM   #10
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I looked at the videos but could not tell which model Xantrex Freedom inverter you have. if you can provide the model I would be happy to take a look at the manual.

The User guide (for the Freedom 458) says there is an internal circuit beaker that will protect the Inverter from overload and will auto reset once the overload condition is removed.

This is the LED light troubleshooting guide (for the 458). I can tell from the video what lights are on or off.
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Old 03-12-2019, 06:12 PM   #11
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If they included surge and electrical suppression they would have to charge more, so instead you should buy an EMS unit yourself such as those sold by Surge Guard or Progressive Industries https://www.progressiveindustries.net/
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Old 03-12-2019, 07:41 PM   #12
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that is why people who are not sure of what they are doing should never mess with electrical connections. the breaker in the inverter will not protect against over voltage ( 240V ) it does not see it as an overload.

without any basic knowledge of electrical circuits and wiring and the proper use of a volt/amp/ohm meter leave it to the professionals, could be very costly otherwise
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:09 PM   #13
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looked at your last video concerning adapter connection.

the outlet you are connecting to is a 120v outlet. makes me assume the dryer you are referring to is a gas dryer and only needs 120V for the motor and controls and is protected by a 15A or 20A circuit breaker if so their is no way you could have gotten 240V from that connection.

the breaker box you are showing has only 2 breakers blue handle is 15A red handle is 20A.

that induction meter you are using only confirms that there is a hot line in that cord it cannot confirm if the neutral is present.

for that you have to read the voltage present in the transfer switch do not use induction function of that meter for that reading
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Old 03-12-2019, 09:26 PM   #14
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I think you need to call that RV company and ask if they can recommend a
mobile RV repair man .
Let him sort out your dilemma .
I wouldn't call an electrician you want the RV guy .

Don't use the dryer outlet unless someone that knows absolutely for sure it's ok .

Can you post a picture of the dryer receptacle and adapter ?

The car battery charger will not charge if the batteries are truly dead .
Jumper cables can get it started .

Ray
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