Community Forums

PCB Camper · 05-13-2015, 01:09 AM

As title states i have a 99 with 48k on the dash and the bearings have never been serviced. Got the tires replaced and since then there is a violent shaking both cab and steering wheel felt when braking at any speed. Checked underneath and i dont see and damage. With the rv jacked up the wheels make contact at a certain section when spinning so i want to pop the wheel off and inspect the drum. Dana said the drum is webb 65545b. Sound right? What about brake shoes how hard are they to replace and anyone have a part number?

While im that far into it might as well repack the bearing. Anyone have the bearing nut size and the torque procedure when reinstalling? Dont want to have to buy the large socket kit that is 180$ at harbour freight. I seem to remember sone post stating 2 1/4 for the wheel and 2 5/8 for the bearing nut.

Anyone have the part numbers for the wet hub and seal id need to convert to wet bath? Ice contacted monaco, dana, and workhorse and no one has been helpful.

Thanks gentlemen i appreciate any input. Especially to what you might think the braking problem is.

twinboat · 05-13-2015, 04:08 AM

Go back to the tire shop, if it was fine, before they touched it.

If it's not something they did, they will tell you, what is wrong.

Once you pull it apart, it becomes your problem.

scep · 05-13-2015, 04:57 AM

Same thing happened to me when I put new tires on. It turned out one of the front tires was out of round and during braking it caused all kinds of havoc. It started out with mild shaking and went to extreme shaking within 10 or so braking efforts.

I had a shop shave the both tires and replace the lead weights with ceramic beads in the fronts and its been smooth as silk since then.

onechaddude · 05-13-2015, 05:25 AM

If all they replaced were the tires then it must be the new tires that are causing the shaking. If they removed the hubs for any reason then could be a problem there that I have experienced. If they did let me know and I'll fill you in on the fix for that.

Chad

Tomjhall · 05-13-2015, 07:18 AM

A year after I purchased my Windsor I was worried if the bearings had ever been repacked so I pulled the bearing cap off and it was obvious they had not been serviced. I didn't notice anything wrong in fact the grease looked great and it would have been fine for another 30K. It had over 80K, I know what the manual says so I repacked them and replaced the seals. I didn't switch to oilers because if the bearings looked new at 80K what is the point? I have the documents with the seals and grease. You may be able to check previous posts to find them sooner. I won't be home until this evening.

mccrob · 05-13-2015, 09:41 AM

It's a job best left to professionals or strong young men something you'll realize when you try to pick up the tire or brake drum not to mention the 600 lbs torque on the wheel studs 😛

PCB Camper · 05-13-2015, 10:24 AM

When they replaced the tires the tire guys nephew jacked it from a spot that didnt work and had to reposition and i crawled under to look for damged/bent parts. Im not sure if that did it but we'll drive it over to docs tire shop where we had it done and have it checked out. Im 26 6' 240 and can definitly do the work and rather mot have to pay docs tire shop more money to have him recheck the tires. I want to still change the grease bearings to oil bath and if anyone has nut sizes, torque values and any tips would be greatly appreciated. The webb parts number i losted for brakes are 75 pound drums so im not looking forward to it but it needs to be checked.

PCB Camper · 05-13-2015, 10:28 AM

It happens only when braking. From the very first time you hit the brakes to the last time you touch them. While driving it rides smooth as silk. My father said that during city traffic the brakes got so hot, going to the tire shop, he thought they were going to catch the motorhome on fire. Hes an experianced navy diesel mechanic and states it has to be the brakes and not the tires. Maybe a drum is out of round or a brake pad cracked

twinboat · 05-13-2015, 10:38 AM

Never saw a drum out of round. Have seem hot spots, that needed to be ground out, while turning them.

Maybe they got it cocked, on the hub, while putting the wheel on.

As far as the bearings, just repack them with wheel bearing grease, for another 50,000 miles. You can use a pair of pliers on the bearing nut. Just read up, on how to set the bearings.

PCB Camper · 05-13-2015, 11:15 AM

Iven been reading for days and cant find any how to on setting initial load, backing off, and retorquing to the lower torque value

PCB Camper · 05-13-2015, 11:40 PM

Found the info in a dana online manual. Anyone with wet hub recommendatons?

Mr_D · 05-14-2015, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mccrob

It's a job best left to professionals or strong young men something you'll realize when you try to pick up the tire or brake drum not to mention the 600 lbs torque on the wheel studs 😛

I've never seen any lugs that took over 500 ft lbs. That's all our two Dutch Stars and the present Magna take.
I carry a air wrench that goes to over 600 ft lbs and a Proto torque multiplier that gives me 500 ft lbs with 151 ft lbs on the wrench.

Tomjhall · 05-14-2015, 07:41 AM

I agree I've only seen 450-500 foot lbs. I would also add I've never seen a shop and I mean big shops use a torque wrench. They always hit it with the 1" impact and call it good. Some may argue but that's my experience.

On the oil bath or "oilers" I considered that also but my coach had 80K when I bought it and the bearings had never been serviced and they looked perfect. You will notice the outer bearing grease may be a little darker this is normal. I spent a long time trying to use the right gease and ended up talking to Timken Engineering who said the Valvoline Dura Blend Synthetic Lithium/Moly which is NLGI Lithium base grade 2 was perfect for my application.

80K miles and bearings are perfect so unless you have the correct tool to install the Oiler hub seals I wouldn't switch. It takes a special tool, you're not suppose to use a hammer and carefully work it into the hub. I'm sure you can but if it leaks you are done.............with grease it's much less of a headache. So my two reasons to stay with grease:
1. 80K no issues with grease
2. I didn't have the seal installer......

Good luck

rmcb · 05-14-2015, 08:25 AM

Tom's points are good. Today, I would have just put the caps back on and continue to drive the beast.

But for some unknown illogical reason, I went ahead and changed over to oil hubs on my Diplomat. If anyone decides to do this, there are now seals available that can be installed by hand. Here are the part numbers for the seals and hubs:

Seal: C/R 35058 $38.29 ea
Hub: Stemco STE 303-4024 $20.96 ea

Cleaning out the old grease is a real mess. There must be a lb. in each hub.

I did use a dial indicator to ensure the end play was within tolerance. I am sure those guys that use a 1" impact for the lug nuts have plenty of dial indicators that they use for this.

Roy