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Exclamation 1999 Renegade battery wiring
Old 09-17-2010, 04:33 PM   #1
cwcsnyder is offline
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Help!!! I cannot find a wiring diagram for how the coach batteries are wired up,and am afraid that I might make a mistake in hooking them up properly!Can anyone help me ?Charlie.

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Old 09-17-2010, 07:58 PM   #2
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You need to tell us what you intend to install. 6-volt batts? or 12? and how many.

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Old 09-18-2010, 08:03 AM   #3
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Found this on the 'net. This should help you decide what to do and how to do it.

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)

Let us know what you think!
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Coach Battery wiring.
Old 09-19-2010, 03:51 PM   #4
cwcsnyder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robi.1014 View Post
You need to tell us what you intend to install. 6-volt batts? or 12? and how many.
RV has (4)12 volt 1000CA marine dual purpose batteries marked chassis batteries and a place for two batteries marked coach batteries which is empty! This space marked coach batteries was empty when I purchased the home in July.I do not know if there is supposed to be batteries in this space as I did not recieve any wiring diagrahms with this home.It is a 1999 37'Renegade Classic Edition made by Harney (SMC) Corp. Model MESA 37 RQ.ANY HELP will be GREATLY appreciated! Thank You,Charlie.
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Old 09-19-2010, 03:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robi.1014 View Post
Found this on the 'net. This should help you decide what to do and how to do it.

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)

Let us know what you think!
This is a GREAT Item and a very good read! I am sure this will help me! Thank you so much!! Charlie.
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:43 PM   #6
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Some more thoughts .... which lead to more questions...

Four "dual purpose" batts make a pretty-good bank to power coach (i.e., "house") requirements: 12v interior lighting, LP-gas heater, refer, water pump, etc., AND an Inverter (converts 12VDC to 120VAC). Do you have an inverter?....and can you determine that it is hooked up?

The "2 empty spaces" sounds like a good spot for two 12V, hi-cranking-amps-but-not-dual-purpose batts. I haven't checked your profile yet ... is your rig diesel? Assuming it is, a pair of batts dedicated to starting is a common design.

Next: check the very-thick red wires leaving the battery bay/compartment. Correct my assumptions here: (a) there are at least 2 such wires, and (b) each heads off to a kill switch before the wire continues out of the compartment. You need to identify these as to function: chassis feed (starter voltage, headlights, dash A/C, etc.) and coach/house (as mentioned above). Smaller red wires should be identified as well: (a) from the alternator, (b) from the solar panel, and (c) from the charger (assuming you don't have an inverter. And: would you know a battery isolator if you looked at one?
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:50 PM   #7
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It is possible that the PO connected both the chassis power and the house power to the same batteries. You should be able to find this out by tracing the wires as Robi.1014 suggested.

Battery isolators can be solenoids or diode type, the links show examples of both.

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Old 09-22-2010, 03:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robi.1014 View Post
Some more thoughts .... which lead to more questions...

Four "dual purpose" batts make a pretty-good bank to power coach (i.e., "house") requirements: 12v interior lighting, LP-gas heater, refer, water pump, etc., AND an Inverter (converts 12VDC to 120VAC). Do you have an inverter?....and can you determine that it is hooked up?

The "2 empty spaces" sounds like a good spot for two 12V, hi-cranking-amps-but-not-dual-purpose batts. I haven't checked your profile yet ... is your rig diesel? Assuming it is, a pair of batts dedicated to starting is a common design.

Next: check the very-thick red wires leaving the battery bay/compartment. Correct my assumptions here: (a) there are at least 2 such wires, and (b) each heads off to a kill switch before the wire continues out of the compartment. You need to identify these as to function: chassis feed (starter voltage, headlights, dash A/C, etc.) and coach/house (as mentioned above). Smaller red wires should be identified as well: (a) from the alternator, (b) from the solar panel, and (c) from the charger (assuming you don't have an inverter. And: would you know a battery isolator if you looked at one?
Looking at the pullout battery tray there are four batteries on the left side of tray marked chassis and on the left side of the tray(which is empty) there is a space for two batteries. This space is marked House Batteries.I do have an inverter and it is working.I also know what a batery isolator looks like.However I do not know where to look for it.Now back to the batteries in the tray marked Chassis,the two chassis batteries on the right side have the negative post jumped and they are grounded to the frame of the home. The positive posts of the batteries
have only two wires that go inside of home.the other two batteries have all the other wires attached.the positive posts are jumpered as are the negative posts.Looking at the first battery on the right front of the tray marked Chassis the negative post has one very large wire that goes inside of the coach.The positive post on this battery also has one very large wire that goes inside of coach. The battery behind this front battery has two small white wires connected to the negative post. The positive post has one very large wire and a small flat black wire attached.Both of these wires also go inside of the coach.I don't know if this helps,but I am open to more suggestions .Charlie
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:50 PM   #9
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Charlie, it's beginning to sound like two batteries are tied together (in parallel) and act as the chassis battery bank. The other two act as coach/house batts. You may have to disregard the roll-out tray labeling. The way the batts are wired together tells the story.

So which bank is which?
First: disconnect from shore power. Now try disconnecting one of the "...very large red wires" (that proceeds from the battery post and into the coach) and see what stops working in the RV. If by chance you've disconnected the chassis battery, things like your parking lights won't work. Caution: don't turn the ignition key to START....but do turn the key to the ON position...and if the dash gauges (idiot lights, etc.) are dead, this further confirms you've "found" the chassis battery pair.

On the flip side, disconnecting the other red-wire on the other batt pair may cause the DC lights in the RV to not come on. Also, the Inverter (if it was on previously) will now be off.

So now you know which is which.

Smaller white wires connected to a negative battery post are merely system wires (of some sort) that are in need of a ground (negative) connection.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:03 AM   #10
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CWC. I have a 2001 Harney coach. The isolator, large catastrophe fuses, and such are mounted on the left wall of the basement compartment on the curb side. They are in a box built on the wall. It has a door with a piano hinge on it and is fastened shut with screws. I hope this helps.

PS. If you find a wiring diagram for your coach let me know. I have several of the manuals but would still like a diagram.

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