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Old 07-30-2016, 07:55 AM   #1
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2 AC pulling 60 AMPS???? Little help please

07 Beaver Marquis. Back air took a long time to come on so had energy management system switch replaced. Now it comes on right. Problem is now (only when it is over like 95 degrees) if I run both rear and middle a/c I can watch my Aladdin and the amp draw on second leg will run up to over 50 amps and throw breaker?? If I run just the rear a/c it will pull 33 amps?? Still seems high as front leg with a/c is at 18 amps. If I run no rear but middle it will start pulling over 40 amps. Checked the coils and all are clean. Seems a little odd that both a/c would be bad. Any ideas guys? Thanks in advance for any opinions.

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Old 07-30-2016, 08:09 AM   #2
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I agree that it would be quite a coincidence for both the middle and rear units to go bad at the same time. What's the voltage reading on that leg when the A/C's are operating (the voltage when they're operating will be different from the voltage when they're off)?

My hunch is that the voltage on that leg is low, maybe because there's a loose connection in your breaker box. Electric motors will draw more current when the voltage is too low. Your Aladdin should show the voltage on each leg.

If that's not the case, then you, indeed, may have two bad compressors.
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Old 07-30-2016, 08:14 AM   #3
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agree, check for low voltage and loose connections.
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Old 07-30-2016, 08:24 AM   #4
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AC units should pull about 13 amps each. Low voltage would cause more current draw but 33 amps says the voltage is down around 47 volts.

I would say something is wrong with the AC units.
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:29 AM   #5
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With power disconnected pull the cover off your automatic transfer switch and tighten all the connections. While you are at it do a visual inspection for burn or melted wires. This is something that should be a yearly maintenance item anyway.
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Old 07-30-2016, 10:40 AM   #6
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While you are at it check and probably clean the outside air channel as it is probably plugged with dirt.
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Old 07-30-2016, 02:08 PM   #7
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Are you sure there's no other large voltage appliance on at the same time? The breaker and wire going to the A/C would be overloaded and trip if more than 20 amps were going to it. Is the converter/charger or water heater or something else on that cause that kind of voltage draw?

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Old 07-31-2016, 07:57 AM   #8
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ac

Thanks guys for all the posts. The voltage on leg two, where both middle and rear air is fine. When it isn't hot outside (but still running both ac) the draw is around 24 amps. When it gets warm outside the middle ac (running without rear) will jump all the way to 40 or more amps. The rear by itself will pull 33 amps when I run it alone. Does this on the generator also so can't be connection to post. The rear energy management system switch was just replaced so don't think there is a loose connection. As I can watch the middle ac start to pull amps all the way up I believe it is bad. Just don't understand why after the middle goes bad and turned off why the rear pulls 33 amps??
Where would I find transfer switch to check connections?

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Old 07-31-2016, 08:13 AM   #9
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The transfer switch is probably located in one of your basement compartments.

On mine it is located in the smallest basement compartment and is accessed via a small plexiglass sliding door.

The transfer switch has 2 incoming power cords, one from the generator and one from the shore power. The should be only one exiting cord. If you do have a problem with terminal connections it would be on the outgoing power since your problem occurs with both the generator & shore power feed.

You indicate you just had your EMS system changed, what exactly did they change.
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:44 AM   #10
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amps

I don't have any glass panels to get to transfer switch. Not sure where it might be. I'll keep lookin. They replaced the energy management control switch. Had to pull the clothes dryer to do it. Back air comes on now as it should.
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:54 AM   #11
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just a thought....

heat increases the resistance of wire. increased wire resistance would require more amps to push the requested voltage.

I'm not sure RV makers use the biggest wires, and the distance of wire to your rear a/c, combined with heat in the roof in high temps could theoretically cause a high enough resistance to impede the voltage.

I wonder if your energy management control switch was eating voltage via heat leak too?

Glad you found a solution!

I'm no whiz bang electrical mathematician...
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:36 AM   #12
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Your RV is a 2007. Do you know of your A/C units have been replaced? On our 2008 we just had our second unit lock up, it would draw 60A on the EMS panel before it blew the breaker. The first one sprung a leak due to a manufacturing defect, it broke last year.

I do not believe you have a wiring or EMS issue either, 2000+ watts (the difference in the power the middle A/C draws when not hot vs hot if I understand correctly) is a lot of power to dissipate in wiring, EMS or transfer switch, if it was you'd be smelling it.

It may be that the ones that are drawing lots of current are ready to break. Anything drawing that much power will become really hot really quick. If you want to climb on the roof, check the compressor temps of the front vs the other two (they will be hot, so you may want to use a non-contact meter like an IR temperature meter). I bet on hot days the middle and rear are much hotter than the front.

Maybe you can replace just the compressor or charge the units (if they need refrigerant), I couldn't find anyone in the Boston area to fix mine, maybe you'll have better luck.
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothermark View Post
While you are at it check and probably clean the outside air channel as it is probably plugged with dirt.
nothermark
Where do you have an "outside air channel"?
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:40 AM   #14
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I believe the energy control switch connects to both the rear AC and the Washer/Dryer, you can only run 1 at a time and I believe the AC unit takes control. If the AC unit is not running you can run the washer and dryer.

Don't know if that install could be causing your problem, never know.

One way to find the transfer switch is to turn off the shore power at the breake, this will cause the transfer switch to go to the generator as this is the default and then turn it back on. You may be able to hear the transfer switch click as it switches to shore power , depending on what style.
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